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Seafoam Dilemma

Why would you change oil every 3 months in a vehicle.. Do they throw oil off the shelf every 3 months? Do you change the oil in a brand new car once you buy it since its been around 3 months since it was built? That is the stupidist thing ever is people doing it in months..

Mileage or hours is the only way to change.

Actually that is as inaccurate as going by time. The ONLY correct way to determine when to change oil is by performing a UOA.

and Synthetic with good filter is good for 10 000km in most newer vehicles.

Actually Amsoil as well as other top synthetic oils can go way further. I routinely go 20k miles( not km ).
 



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Why would you change oil every 3 months in a vehicle.. Do they throw oil off the shelf every 3 months? Do you change the oil in a brand new car once you buy it since its been around 3 months since it was built? That is the stupidist thing ever is people doing it in months.. Milage or hours is the only way to change.. and Synthetic with good filter is good for 10 000km in most newer vehicles.

Ok, so I live in a smaller city. I drive for about 30 minutes everyday Monday to Friday, about 45 minutes on Saturday, and about 15 minutes on Sunday. Mileage is about 10km (about 6.5 miles) per day during the week, 15km on the weekend. So let's add up:

1 month = 840 minutes, which is 14 hours.

1 month = 260 km a month travelled, about 170 miles.

According to your 10,000km interval and theory that overall time does not matter, I should be good for 38.4 months. Let's round down a bit for idling time and perhaps the extra grocery trip, so let's say it's good for 36 months.

You're telling me that synthetic oil is good in my engine for 3 years between changes ? Man I'm missing out here, this is like the near-maintenance-free engine !
 






where'd you run the seafoam and how'd you clean the IAC and the MAF, please?
 






where did you run the seafoam (liquid or deep creep) and how did you clean the IAC and MAF; i'd like to do the same this weekend, before my oil/filter/plug change. thanks.
 






Your maf shouldn't really need to be cleaned it does it's own clean cycle from what I"ve read....if your compelled to clean it though it's fight after the air filter, take that assembly apart and you can spray it with brake cleaner. As far as Sea Foam a lot of people like the pvc valve which on the OHV motor is on the driver side at the back of the valve cover. Or you can use the brake booster line. The IAC doesn't really need to be cleaned either from what I've read.
 






Your maf shouldn't really need to be cleaned it does it's own clean cycle from what I"ve read....if your compelled to clean it though it's fight after the air filter, take that assembly apart and you can spray it with brake cleaner. As far as Sea Foam a lot of people like the pvc valve which on the OHV motor is on the driver side at the back of the valve cover. Or you can use the brake booster line. The IAC doesn't really need to be cleaned either from what I've read.

They should be cleaned if you're having idling problems. Use the seafoam through the pcv valve as the brake booster line doesn't equally distribute it.
 






So...... New to the boards... yay! Uhm... what is this seafoam stuff? And where do you get it?
 












Say thanks! I'm gonna head over to autozone. Check it out.
 






best pie i've ever had was in Allentown, but i could do without that sauce on the cheesesteaks . . . seafoam?
 






amsoil and rotella will suggest going 25k+ OR one year, if you're using a quality filter like amsoil, mobil-1 or pure one; delvac advertises a million miles (on a diesel rig i believe). bottom line, with a good real synth + filter and non-severe duty, you can cut down to one oil change a year.

i only drive my '99 explorer 5k/year, so one change will do the trick regardless.
 






How many people actually classify under the non-severe duty guidelines though? It's cheap insurance to do your oil changes at 3k.
 






How many people actually classify under the non-severe duty guidelines though? It's cheap insurance to do your oil changes at 3k.

good call dynamite. just changed the oil in all the cars and bike today.
 






How many people actually classify under the non-severe duty guidelines though? It's cheap insurance to do your oil changes at 3k.

Its also wasting money. Next time you change oil at 3k, send in a sample for a UOA and look at the results.
 






Its also wasting money. Next time you change oil at 3k, send in a sample for a UOA and look at the results.

Actualy a good idea, I should do this in the extreme cold that my Ex lives in.
 






I've got a '99 Explorer sport with a 4.0SOHC V6, about 86k miles. Only run it with heavier oils, and I do not waste any money on the synths becuase this engien is so sloppy that in 3000 miles the oil is filthy. I also have a '94 Honda del Sol with a 1.6L I4 and about 110k miles. When I got it, I switched it to synths, and have changed it more for fear of the filter coming apart than the oil being dirty. The small japanese 4-banger has much tighter tolerances than the larger domestic V6, and runs alot cleaner for it. It also only manages 90 ft/lbs of torque, compared to my Ex's over 200.

What does this have to do with oil? Synths are only worht it if the engine can take advantage of it. High performance engines with specific outputs over 80hp/liter displacement will benfit from the extra lubrication, low foaming, and, longer life expectancy of synths. Lower specific output engines that are built for work rather than play could have alot more things improved in them before the different oil will begin to matter.

As far as synths damaging an engine - that is more likely related to an operating environment change thatn the synths specifically. If those engines had been running synth since the beginning and then switched to naturals, they may have had the same failures. IMO, When everything is running fine, don't rock the boat by changing around the variables.
 












Yeah im gonna have to disagree with you on that one. How is that MANY mfg's ship your new car with synthetic and it is also recommended. Corvette comes to mind and im sure with minor searching many others will pop up. You can debate the whole syn vs dino oil for years but the results don't lie. All of your high performance engines run smoother and cooler with syn oil. Do you think if it will really hurt your engine they would put in to a corvette at the factory?

also have to agree with this. the cummins diesel also reccomends a 5/40 synthetic oil from the factory. VW deisel require the 5/40 as well. i am all for the synthetic, i am just too cheap to pay for it with 400k on my engine. rear end is syn though
 






also have to agree with this. the cummins diesel also reccomends a 5/40 synthetic oil from the factory. VW deisel require the 5/40 as well. i am all for the synthetic, i am just too cheap to pay for it with 400k on my engine. rear end is syn though

Like I said on the previous page of this thread, I assume the engines are built differently. No one replied to me, so I assume either no one knows, or I might be on to something.
 



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