Zhanx's SAS - HP Dana 44 on 37's thread | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Zhanx's SAS - HP Dana 44 on 37's thread

Ok decided I would like to run 37's.

I know knowi just locked the front and etc, etc. but over the next year i will have about 3 months(non consecutive) of time to wheel. the rest will be spent in schools training to to be an uber elite solider wearing a green beret. So I was like heck might as well do a SAS and do it right since I will gonna be saving all that money.

I've been thinking about axles.. tons of choices are brought up by research. My questions are there :

Should I buy a currie built axle or get a junk yard one and rebuilt it (remember time is not an option for me at this point but i did find one at a junk yard for 350 or so)?

How do i measure for coil-overs? (something i noticed no one covered in their threads)

Is the rubicon long arm kit the easiest way to do this? (more on that later)

Hydralic Ram Steering ?!?!? is it as easy as i think or am i way off by thinking its easy to setup verus anything else

ARB air lockers everyone raves- (410 input please on this) are they worth it?

Will my stock transfer hold up for now or should i swap to a manual?

How much better are out board shocks than in board?

I dont expect all these to be answered for me so dont worry. I will adding answers and websites for parts as time goes on. Most likly i will not be doing the swap unless a miracle happens and i get time.. but i want all the right parts before i pay someone to do it for me. This thread will have a ton of stuff in hopefully by the time i am done to answer any question on a coil over sas. Any input who be great,, as i want to start ordering parts for this in march.

hmm.. found a couple of wagoneer dana 44 at a junkyard that i need to go check out and get a firm price on.. might go that way for now.

started a price list to figure out the basic cost to just rebuild the axle out of a 80's wagoneer (will adjust when i get the axle and the year and add to it)

from accuautoparts.com

$142.80 MOTIVE GEAR - 4.56 RATIO RING & PINION GEARSET
$ 99.87 MASTER INSTALL KIT
_______
$229.80
from autozone.com
$ 15.99 FENCO_REMAN DRIVER SIDE BRAKE CALIPER
$ 15.99 FENCO_REMAN PASSENGER SIDE BRAKE CALIPER
$ 24.99 DURALAST SEMI-METALLIC BRAKE PADS
_______
$286.99

from offroadlockers.
$229.99 Aussie Locker
_______
$516.76

am i missing anything? Still cheaper than the Superlift or trailmaster kits.
 



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rant on :

I just spent 800 "fixing" the front end of my x. new everything and crap to get it running so i can go home for christmas. Due to my training status for SF i haven't been home since last x-mas.

I decided to goto URE for a test run. Well I now have to replace a wheel bearing this is b#LLshit i just replaced the D@mn thing (about a year ago) I hate my IFS my align is way off and my Power steering pump blows i can't even turn 33" locked on the trial anymore.

I was gonna wait. Do my SAS in the spring. But i am pissed now. I as going to start scouring the yards for a dana 44 swap it in. No more i thinki can make or crap i need yet another alignment cause my ifs sucks.

heck if i i find a dana 60 first that is going in instead.

I know i am normally calm but i am just a little ticked. I didn't even do a hard trail are URe and my alignment is off

rant off

This is back on again.


I feel ya brother!!! I was having issue after issue with my axle and finally said screw it, im not putting anymore money into this damn thing, and the SAS started very soon after!!
 



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i want to sas my ranger this summer.... i know you guys are going to hate this but all i want is a parts list so i an just go buy everything at once and be done with it..
 






i want to sas my ranger this summer.... i know you guys are going to hate this but all i want is a parts list so i an just go buy everything at once and be done with it..

There is not such thing. So many variables. And besides, even if you think you have everything...you don't!
 






yes he is right there. I am making my list for parts right now. I will post it when i am done. Sourcing everything out first then after chrismas army depending i am gonna start preping. Easy stuff first like moving the fuel lines and buying the tubeing and rod ends. Still need to talk the wife into a ARB airlocker for the front. I think it will be open for now.
thinkin about using 1-1/4 hemi's i think. :) or just stick with the RE superflex joints? Pricing an sales will help decide. Just need to think out the steering part...
 






oh yea extra note got a buddy that owns a shop, next time he gets a set of used 37's on r 15 i can have them for mock ups and testing for my sas so i know how big they are.
 






ok now that i am getting my axle (which i pick up friday). I started looking at fun stuff to help put the axle under the truck.

after reading "billavista"'s A Joint for Any Occasion. i decided to go big. do it once and not have to worry about it again, plus i want to be able to adjust my links to tune in front. Here is the article and i am going with the evo joints.

I am gonna use 6 of these thing.. so much for cheap.
 






ignore this post its just for me

ignore this post its just for me, so i can save some links to parts i am gonna grap and quanities. Unless you have links to better parts and why for.

http://www.evolutionmachine.com/ - heavy duty heim joints. Thinking 6. Maybe 3 if i just use rock bushings at the bottom to reduce vibrations.

http://purplecranium.com/ <- diff guard half spider so the front will match the rear 8.8

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...839047+4294891995+4294895138+115&autoview=sku <- chrome diff cover so it looks good.

http://www.offroadlockers.com/item.php/TM7300f6/98d7/06/306002/.html <- front locker

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/ ,- tab and other small parts cheapish
 












i was thinking adjustablity on running them. ok hows a rock bushing on the axle ended and a RE up top.. way cheaper in price.
 






i was thinking adjustablity on running them. ok hows a rock bushing on the axle ended and a RE up top.. way cheaper in price.
A rock bushing and an RE-superflex up top? That sounds kinda like my setup ;) .
But seriously, I would put heims on all ends if I was building a rock buggy - but for trail vehicles, heims are going to die fairly quickly. But then again, I'm using one heim on the panhard - eheheh

BTW since your in NC, GravityWerks is where I got my bushings from: http://www.gravity-werx.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=327. They are located in GA so hopefully shipping wont be too much for you. The bushings (http://www.gravity-werx.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=339) are about $10 each. The adjustable ones (http://www.gravity-werx.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=338) are about $19 each.
They all use a 9/16" bolt for the center -- which is the same size that the RE-superflex uses - just to keep your links uniform :D
 






Those seem like some pretty decent prices. Why not run a bushing on both ends? (just asking cause i don't know)
 






Those seem like some pretty decent prices. Why not run a bushing on both ends? (just asking cause i don't know)

you can but a flexable joint is better at one end or the other...
 






Yah - bushing on both ends means not as much flex because the links themselves twist with the axle (assuming the bushing is on the axle side of the link).

People who convert to 3 or 4 link rear ends for street use often use bushings on both ends.
GravityWerks sells such links: http://www.gravity-werx.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=890

BTW GravityWerks also sells links with superflex on both ends for $130: http://www.gravity-werx.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=767
The site says standard length is 24", obviously you'll want something longer (probably around 3 ft) but I dunno whether or not they can do that length (call them?).
 






might work for the upper link, but i want 2" .25 wall on the lowers due to my driving style.


Iz you got a site with cheapo R.E joints? make my build even cheaper... what we need to start is a forum of fab parts sites. But cheaper is better for me, since when i get home i have to replace my EPC in the tranny.
 






might work for the upper link, but i want 2" .25 wall on the lowers due to my driving style.
Ah yes, sorry I totally forgot about the tube diam.
 






what other links you got?

oh on an extra note.

i will be make it 61 wms for the front axle to match the wheel spacers in the rear. now i just need to find where i wrote down what year shafts will match that so i can get them friday also.
 






what other links you got?.
I have so many links I think it might just confuse you. So lets see if I can just give you the ones you need -- what parts of the swap do you still need help with?
 






For fixed bushings you might consider the super ride builders bushing or even the rubber clevite bushings that RE offers. They should have enough give in them without being too stiff and still give a good on-road feel.
The rubber bushings (P/N RE3701) when used with the large cold cut rings (P/N RM12600) should weld up nicely on the 2" OD tubing you plan on using.
As for the super ride builders bushings, they don't list the width of them so a call or an email might be in order if you are interested in them.
http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Builders-Parts.aspx?Vid=E395FB427995

I'm using BTF's rubber rock bushings at the axle end on my lowers and uppers which seem to be holding up so far but they have a 3/4" stud welded to the body and i'd feel more comfortable with something beefier...at least for the the lower links.

end_lnks.gif

img_0636.gif
 






I have so many links I think it might just confuse you. So lets see if I can just give you the ones you need -- what parts of the swap do you still need help with?

nothing really. just thinking maybe you have some links to cheaper prices...
 



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