Superlift half done. Need tips for the front!

[AMMO_HOOAH]

Well despite the idiots at truckaddons.com (search for my other rant on that point, they actually told me today as I'm opening boxes it would be to me on Monday or Tuesday next week ). The kit got in today, so I ran the parts check list, accounted for everything, and decided to put the rear on since I didn't have a full day for the front. All I can say is OMG what a PITA. It would have been cake except first I ran out of jack trying to get the truck high enough to get the lift on. Once I finagled that It took me FOR FREAKIN EVER to get the dang leave pins to line up with the axle. Since it has the trailing arms when it dropped the axle had to rotate..... which was fine on the one side but once i got it in, and snugged up I couldn't for the life of me get the other side to come even close. I took the leaf off, but then of course couldn't get the leaf to line back up with it's mounting holes but I ended up loosening the other side just short of the pin coming out, and let the truck down on its weight. This got me close enough to get the pin to slide in as i tightened the u-bolts. Also the instructions talk about a brake line t-block that doesn't even come with the kit for the explorer. They also don't tell you that you have to remove the "lateral movement dampener" the little shock attached to pumpkin and frame. Other than that it was pretty straight forward.

Here's why I really posted this. Tomorrow I'm going to hit the front (although the rake is kinda cool), and I need some tips on getting the outer tie-rods, and lower ball joints out of the old knuckle. I'm doing it in my driveway otherwise I'd be using an air-pickle gun. I'm not worried about the uppers because I just replaced all of them (uppers, and lowers) a few months ago, so they shouldn't be stuck yet..... I hope , but I've never taken the outer tie-rods off, and the lowers are really pressed into the knuckle. Thanks in advance for any help you guys have. I'll try and snap some pics of the rake and finished lift.... on 31s till the 15th. LOL, they already looked small with the TT/ shackles, and BL. Now it's almost comical.

 

[DixieOnMyMind59]

For the balljonts, go buy this today.... http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38335

 

[AMMO_HOOAH]

For the balljonts, go buy this today.... http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38335

Thanks, but I don't need to take the balljoint out of the control arm just off the knuckle.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

I just used a hammer- remove the pinch bolt on the top of the knuckle, whack the upper A arm up. A mini sledge works best. If you can't get it to come out, spray with penetrating oil, and try to get a screwdriver or pry bar to pull the gap open on the backside of the knuckle.

In the rear, I'd ditch the "traction bars" they will limit flex, I can't tell any difference without mine.

Extended rear brake line:

Its a 12" hard line from AZ- bent it just a little to clear a shock- gives me plenty of slack so I don't have to worry about stretching the line.

 

[boominXplorer]

I just bent my bracket in the rear down far enough at full droop it still has slack.

To get the lower out easy is break it loose before you do the upper. Back the nut off 3/4 of the way and hit the spindle with a 3-5lb sledge right were it curves to the back. Hit it there 3-5 good solid hits and she'll be out.

 

[explrths]

I just bent my bracket in the rear down far enough at full droop it still has slack.

To get the lower out easy is break it loose before you do the upper. Back the nut off 3/4 of the way and hit the spindle with a 3-5lb sledge right were it curves to the back. Hit it there 3-5 good solid hits and she'll be out.

it works, seen him do it to mine

 

[AMMO_HOOAH]

it works, seen him do it to mine

Thanks for the help guys. I got it all done today definitely would have been quicker with air tools. I ended up finding a OLD puller that suited my needs in one of my tool boxes. I think the biggest PITA was keeping the calipers out of the way. My pads have dug in a little and I couldn't get them apart. It ended up being a 15# PITA everything I did it was in the way. The front drive shaft worked just fine for me didn't have a problem, but then I didn't even disconnect it. As well as, not taking the half shafts out I just did everything around them. Next is to figure out a skid plate for the whole front and tie it into both drop cross members. I figure if nothing else it'll add some strength to em being all one unit bolted together. I'll get some pics loaded up tomorrow. All I can say is dang those 31s are little LOL.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

:ttiwwp:

 

[DixieOnMyMind59]

Back the nut off 3/4 of the way and hit the spindle with a 3-5lb sledge right were it curves to the back. Hit it there 3-5 good solid hits and she'll be out.

Man, thats insane....i did the same thing when i was putting my new spindles on. I asked my dad to help me and he walked over in the garage and grabbed a 3ft sledge hammer and came over and whacked the top of my spindle with it and it just fell right off. I thought i was the only one that has ever taken it to that extreme when working on my X.

 

[AMMO_HOOAH]

Ok, here's the pics:

Nothing like a 4" rake LOL.

And the finished product.

And yes I did the whole install where it's sitting. The front is still a little low, but that's because I need longer bolts for the T-bars. Since the front sway bar was not quick disconnect friendly (not to mention I pulled the end link through the bushing), I ended up removing it and using two of the mounting bolts (fit the nut that came with the kit) to keep the limit straps down on. I put the rear back on, so well see how it behaves on the road. This way I can still disconnect the rear for full articulation.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

I'd like to see a picture of your limit straps- I need to get some.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Oh, and I can show you a cheap way to make some front sway bar links that are fairly easily removable and very cheap. If you'd like

 

[AMMO_HOOAH]

I'd like to see a picture of your limit straps- I need to get some.

I'll snap some pics of the straps tomorrow. So far I don't even see a need for the front one sway bar. Between the stiffer front end, and the rear one it doesn't roll any worse than it did before. BTW, do you know which front d-shaft you had to have shortened, because mine actually has more play in the slip joint now than it did before. If I end up having vibration issues I think I'm going to get a longer bolt for the rear mount, and put washers between the mount and frame until I get the angle I want.

 

[AMMO_HOOAH]

PS, yes I know I need to get those 37s lol. Don't 31s look dinky now!

 

[MountaineerGreen]

I'll snap some pics of the straps tomorrow. So far I don't even see a need for the front one sway bar. Between the stiffer front end, and the rear one it doesn't roll any worse than it did before.

BTW, do you know which front d-shaft you had to have shortened, because mine actually has more play in the slip joint now than it did before. If I end up having vibration issues I think I'm going to get a longer bolt for the rear mount, and put washers between the mount and frame until I get the angle I want.

I'd be careful driving without a front sway bar- at least until you get used to not having it.

As for the driveshaft, It was the one that I got from the salvage yard, from an F150. It was a tight fit before the lift, after the lift it wedged in there.

I don't know if you will be able to get enough angle out of your front diff to keep a single cardan driveshaft happy- but if you do, I want to see it.

 

[AMMO_HOOAH]

I'd be careful driving without a front sway bar- at least until you get used to not having it.

As for the driveshaft, It was the one that I got from the salvage yard, from an F150. It was a tight fit before the lift, after the lift it wedged in there.

I don't know if you will be able to get enough angle out of your front diff to keep a single cardan driveshaft happy- but if you do, I want to see it.

I've driven without either before with the old suspension, and with just the rear on it's the same as it was with just the front on. When I was reassembling the front (I never actually took off the front D-shaft) there seemed to be plenty of room to shim it if I needed too. I don't think it would take much to change the angle. It's funny, but I guess what they say is true, every truck is different, cause my shaft is an f-150 one too.

 

[naxel86]

Ammo_Hooah:
What size tires did you have on ur X in those picts?

 

[AMMO_HOOAH]

Ammo_Hooah:
What size tires did you have on ur X in those picts?

31x10.50x15

 

[AMMO_HOOAH]

Here's the limit strap mounts, and swaybar endlinks:
Top

Bottom

Top

Bottom

Sorry it took me so long to post em. The bolt in the bottom control arm is actually out of the front swaybar mount using the bolt that was on the bottome of the endlink. The kit comes with a spacer that doesn't actually tighten up against the arm, so it's not in there now. Also the instructions tell you to mount the limit straps 3/4 of an inch below that hole that's already there, but I think I'm going to move them up to those holes to allow for some stretch.... maybe.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Thanks for the pictures- I need some limit straps, just have to figure out how to make em now.