Mass Air Flow swap

[bikeboarder]

i ment 2nd gen explorer.

 

[kerv]

yeah it works i got mine off of a 5.0 2nd gen. from a junk yard. works good.

is that ur stock throttle body??? cause mine looks way diff.

 

[bikeboarder]

is that ur stock throttle body??? cause mine looks way diff.

That is a picture of my MAF housing off of a V8 2nd jen explorer and my cone filter. the Throttle body is stock.

 

[RJDriver]

Fyi

I thought I remembered reading about this on a another thread.....

The following was posted by screen name "Robert" on 6-20-2000.

The idea is that since it has a larger bore (70mm-75mm vs. the stock 55mm) it will allow more air into the engine than is capable. Similar ideas behind the restrictor plates that are used on some of the faster Nascar tracks. It is a plate with a smaller bore, which reduces the amount of air available to the engine. Both, the smaller and larger MAF may be calibrated properly, but the larger one will still allow more air to enter the engine. Of course the limiting factor then becomes whatever the bore of the throttle body is. If it is also only 55mm, then it won't do any good to put a larger MAF on. When I first bought my MAF from 4.0L Performance, they said that the stock MAF was quite a bit smaller than the throttle body so I should replace the MAF before replacing the throttle body. It takes a given amount of air and fuel to make a given amount of horsepower. I am not sure how much air/fuel for 1 HP, but it is reported to be in a 14.7/1 ratio. Now if the stock injectors are not capable of providing anymore fuel to produce more horsepower, then it won't do any good to get more air into the engine. Same goes with the MAF. If the stock MAF is capable of flowing enough air for the maximum amount of HP the engine is capable of producing in its current state, it won't do any good to have a larger MAF. Pro-Flow Technologies web site shows that a 55mm MAF is good for up to 320 HP on a normally aspirated V8. With that being the case, and if the V6 numbers are similar that I suspect a stock MAF should be good to in excess of 300 HP. So until my engine exceeds 300 HP, it probably wouldn't do any good to add a larger MAF.

Any engineers out there wanna weigh in?

 

[RJDriver]

And more....

If you are interested in knowing about swapping the TB, check out Aldive's thread entitled "My Quest for 30." He has done all sorts of research with different mods which are then proven on the dyno follwed up by road testing. Visit his threads:

Aldive's X with all of mods listed:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=137531

Aldive's quest for 30
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44372&highlight=quest

 

[93explorer4life]

im prolly gona have to go to the junk yard and pick on up!!!!! i jsut modded my TB i did the whole cut the bar thing to it!
cleaned it up, and such, the trucks got some tranny problems as of now! so i cant tell if theres a differance!
yet!
but i want to do a MAF mod, i was thinking earlier today if there was anyting i could do to mod it, and well i guess this is the cheapest way! it will work for a 92 first gen right??? i figure it should! looking forward to it!

 

[bikeboarder]

it will work with your truck. but i would get the cone filter to go with it. i felt more gain with the filter then i did with the 5.0 MAF.

 

[kerv]

went out and bought a cone filter and the adaptor. got it all hooked up noticed a little power diff. one question though the 2 lines that are connected to the stock air box on the top. wht did u guys do with those???after u put the cone filter in

 

[bikeboarder]

plug them they are vaccume lines for the heated air inlet. sence you have a cone now there is no need for them

 

[kerv]

should i plug each one seperately or get a fitting and connect them together???

 

[Matt Fisher]

I thought I remembered reading about this on a another thread.....

The following was posted by screen name "Robert" on 6-20-2000.

The idea is that since it has a larger bore (70mm-75mm vs. the stock 55mm) it will allow more air into the engine than is capable. Similar ideas behind the restrictor plates that are used on some of the faster Nascar tracks. It is a plate with a smaller bore, which reduces the amount of air available to the engine. Both, the smaller and larger MAF may be calibrated properly, but the larger one will still allow more air to enter the engine. Of course the limiting factor then becomes whatever the bore of the throttle body is. If it is also only 55mm, then it won't do any good to put a larger MAF on. When I first bought my MAF from 4.0L Performance, they said that the stock MAF was quite a bit smaller than the throttle body so I should replace the MAF before replacing the throttle body. It takes a given amount of air and fuel to make a given amount of horsepower. I am not sure how much air/fuel for 1 HP, but it is reported to be in a 14.7/1 ratio. Now if the stock injectors are not capable of providing anymore fuel to produce more horsepower, then it won't do any good to get more air into the engine. Same goes with the MAF. If the stock MAF is capable of flowing enough air for the maximum amount of HP the engine is capable of producing in its current state, it won't do any good to have a larger MAF. Pro-Flow Technologies web site shows that a 55mm MAF is good for up to 320 HP on a normally aspirated V8. With that being the case, and if the V6 numbers are similar that I suspect a stock MAF should be good to in excess of 300 HP. So until my engine exceeds 300 HP, it probably wouldn't do any good to add a larger MAF.

Any engineers out there wanna weigh in?

A couple thoughts:

Just because a 55mm MAF can flow enough air to supply a 320hp motor, that doesn't mean it's not a restriction at 320hp. In that instance, replacing the 55mm with a 70mm could result in a 15hp gain (but might not, too many variables), while replacing the 55 with a 70 on a 120hp motor might make for a zero power gain. This goes for almost any part, not just the MAF. For the entire air intake event, think of it as you breathing through a diver's snorkel. No problem sitting on the couch, but go run a 100 yard dash and it's going to be an issue since you need more air. Fit the snorkel to a Tour De France rider and you'll damn near kill him due to the lack of airflow (he's making a whole lot more HP than normal folks).

A larger MAF often contributes to better throttle response, since there is a reduction in the resistance to airflow when you stomp the pedal. There are a ton of variables, so without testing it's difficult to speculate how it actually works out.

14.7:1 is stoichiometric, but the most power is normally produced in the 11:1 to 12:1 range; and that's in refrence to the air:fuel ratio, not how efficient a particular engine is.

The entire engine is a package, it's only as good as it's weakest link, and is always a series of compromises. For most folks, remember to use proven combos so you don't become the guinea pig and don't end up with a series of diminishing returns (you want the biggest bang for the buck).

Now- does that mean a 70mm MAF will increase the HP on your Explorer? I don't know, but it wouldn't surprise me.

 

[bikeboarder]

it helps. anything that will let more air in and out will help. some say that it wont help because it is calibrated for a certon size, and will cause it to run lean. but the O2 sencers will ajust the mixture and in turn make it run at normal mixture. and this will cause a gain in power.