sn0border88's SAS Thread | Page 19 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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sn0border88's SAS Thread

WARNING: This swap will be longer than bmxking's :eek:

Thanks to tig for a real steal that I couldnt pass up ($50), it all started with a d44 from a 73' Bronco. This means its drum braked, coil sprung with LP housing complete hub to hub with r/a's.

But, its matching width. :D

Its in great shape as far as EB axles are concerned. It has 3.50's which upon inspection are in PERFECT condition. Not one chip on any of the ring gear teeth. Also the rust isnt too bad, its simply surface rust, nothing damaging. Also most of the bolts so far are coming off very well, only breaking a few. Not bad for 31 years of rust.

So far in the plans are yukon 4.88's with full spool or lincon locker. Disk brake conversion VIA junkyard or broncograveyard, rear XJ 8" lift leafs and heimjointed crossover. To complete the swap ill be getting new cromo shafts front and rear with a new 5on5.5 bolt pattern for the 8.8 and 4.88's with a detriot. Also rounding it out are some new rubbers, either 35" boggers or MT/R's on 5on5.5 steelies/beadlocked pending on the DD status upon completion of the project. And, if it is no longer a DD when I finish, the top is coming off. :eek: :thumbsup:


EDIT with final prices

Upon completion it now had a Fullwidth d44/9" with 36" TSL-SX, 5.13 gears spooled rear and many other goodies.


Prices:
Gears D44/9" 5.13: $150 from PBB
D44 Master Install: $109.99 from PORC on pirate
9" Master Install: $89.99 from PORC on pirate
D44 Carrier: $60 Ebay
9" Spool: $129.99 from PORC on pirate
1976 f-150 Highpinion Drum Brake D44 : $85 from Junkyard
D44 Disk Brake Outers: $50 from Junkyard
1978 F-150 9": $50 from Junkyard
5 on 5.5 Rims: $20 from Junkyard
4 36x12.5x15 TSL-SX: $ 250 from Pragon Board
1 36x12.5x15 TSL Radial: $18 from Junkyard
Shocks: $100 from Jeff Daniels Jeeps
D44 Spring Perch: $20 Jeff Daniels Jeeps
U-Bolts (Custom) : $30 from local u-bolt shop
Brake Pads/Caliper: $31.77 National Auto
Leaf Spring Hardware: $48 Jeff Daniels Jeeps
Replacement A4LD: $65 Junkyard
Conversion U-Joint: $25 National Auto
Extend Brakelines: $73 from local brakeline shop
Steel: $56

Without what I paid those who helped, plus the gear installs I have about 1,500 into this.


Scrapping the TTB: PRICELESS
 

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it was tied into the o2 sensor? Why? What kind of alarm system would do that?


The A/F gauge never worked anyways.
 



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I misspoke...not 02 but the purple tach wire. (for remote start)

The o2 sensor was tied into the a/f gauge. I can't imagine why that wouldn't work. Loose conncetion at the gauge or at the connection point behinf the manifold?
 






The man in brown had a present for me today



So, for those of you who did the aussie install, how did you get the carrier out wihtout a spreader? Ive done it before, but this one is being a real ***** as the new gears were just setup in it. ANy tricks that worked for you?
 






So, for those of you who did the aussie install, how did you get the carrier out wihtout a spreader? Ive done it before, but this one is being a real ***** as the new gears were just setup in it. ANy tricks that worked for you?
I did this ~ two months ago to remove a small piece of broken axle shaft in the carrier.

I tried it at night first but it was still too cold and the differential housing just would not let the carrier slip out. I waited the next week during the day time when it was a lot warmer and it came out a lot easier.

But because you dont have the locker in yet, it should be easier for you since you can get a pry bar into the center of the carrier where the spider gears are. Once the locker is in, prybars are a little bit more difficult to use because the locker takes up pretty much the entire volume of the center of the carrier.

I ended up using two pry bars, one from the bottom and one from the top both wedged into the carrier. Little by little it came out. Of course you have to watch out and not damage the carrier and housing.

If you realy want to be creative, the idea of using a two jaw puller popped into my head once. But you need to build a bridge that the center screw of the puller would push against. This bridge would of course have to sit or bolt onto the face of the housing (using the diff cover's bolts). The jaws of the puller can then pull on the carrier -- but thats kind of dangerous. Another fun solution is to wrap a tow strap around the carrier and anchor it onto a tree, disconnect the front driveshaft, and reverse the vehicle -- fun...
 






I also used a prybar. The best for me.
 






it took some creativity with the prybars but it finally came free. Now I just need new thrust washers caus mine are pretty worn and re torque the ring gear bolts and throw the ***** back in.
 






it took some creativity with the prybars but it finally came free.
Ouu you're quick :thumbsup: :D. So you AREEE going to have an Aussie this weekend after all :D
 






No, shes american. But I have this kewl gray thing in my diff that makes a clicky noise. :D
 






Im confused now! CONFUSeD!!!

But I too like that clicking noise :D
 












60lb/ft with a bit of locktight is what I did.
 












some pics of the aussie and broken pinion
 

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ouch? just a little?.....
 






finally found the kind of snaps ive been looking for my canvas cover, they were right next to me everyday in the mcmaster carr cat. They even had blind rivet snap studs so I can just set the base for the snaps like that.

Maybe it will be done this week, if I can get the balls to do it. Only thing that worries me is incase of a rollover. Its getting a cage but who knows how long before thats in.
 






what have i done....








:D :D :D
 

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Wow that truck is changing more and more everytime I see it.
 






now thats what i like to see... when are you going to get started on the top?
 



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tommorow, im waiting on the rivets to come in
 






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