Tune up '96 XLT 5.0 just under 100000 miles 2 wd

[GeorgeR]

Well, it's time I dove into a full fledged t.u. on my EX. I have many years experience with carbureted engines but this is my maiden voyage with efi and control modules etc.
I would like opinions on such things as double platinum plugs, are they worth the extra bucks??
What about Sea Foam? is it helpful etc. Do you think it might help clean the carbon out of my egr? The only trouble code it throws is "excessive egr flow"
It's running a mite rough at idle sometimes and I can feel a miss or two @ mid range speeds 50/60mph and that's also "sometimes" and it seems to be a gas hog. What say you folks? Can you give grampa George any salient advice?? And help me save money at the same time and help preserve my truck as it's probably the last vehicle I will have.
Many thanks
GeorgeR

 

[chrisis]

stick with the motorcraft plugs. i recomend using sea foam because is one of those thinks that they really work.

EGR valve is pretty cheap and i would say just get a new one.

 

[rizzjc]

I don't think the Seafoam will fix the EGR. When mine did that, I tried taking it apart and scraping and cleaning all the build-up off it, but that still didn't work. There is a pin that must get pitted enough to keep it from seating properly. I ended up having to replace it. I wouldn't consider it cheap, but it's cheaper if you just replace it to start with, than try replacing everything else first (OK, I tried the sensor, and I cleaned the heck out of it, but still had the code).

Everyone says Motorcraft plugs, but I got some Bosch Platinum+4's, and they've been on there for somewhere around 40k miles, and I haven't had a problem with them. I also changed the wires when I changed the plugs. Fluids throughtout are, of course, key. I'd recommend power stearing fluid, and brake fluid, if it's never been done. Don't forget the radiator. I waited 'til 120k miles on the original coolant, and I'm STILL cleaning gunk out of there!

 

[MountaineerGreen]

A few suggestions;

SeaFoam works well, do it first.

Stick to Motorcraft plug wires or go Taylor- the "premium" wires at parts stores generally suck.

Motor craft single platinum plugs are your most economical and best bet for fuel mileage and general motor running.

Clean your MAF, use MAF cleaner that is now available at parts stores.

Replace your PVC valve, it is at the back of your motor between the valve covers right against the firewall.

Replace your fuel filter.

Optional:

Service the trans, fully drain the torque converter and replace the filter. Re use your stock pan gasket.

 

[GeorgeR]

Thanks for the quick response guys.
Joe, how the heck did you get the egr valve out without disassembly of the TB or maybe you did remove part of it. Mine is what they call an internal egr. Goes into the intake manifold at the rear. They are priced at $130 or so at Auto zone nearly that at other houses. I would rather not spend that if it doesn't absolutely need it. I did buy a sensor, but haven't installed it yet. 30 bucks. I have looked at the Bosch and NGK plugs. They are nice and if I only have to replace them once, I guess 10 bucks apiece isn't too bad. Sure is more than 1.19 each on my old Bronco tho.
Thanks
GR

 

[rizzjc]

I had to remove the throttle body and elbow ... twice, since I tried cleaning everything by hand first (and replacing the sensor, which was fine). Be careful about the EGR they sell at AutoZone (or elsewhere). I found they did not have the right one (i.e. not for the 5.0). I order mine from Terry at fastparts. I think the price was around the same, but I'd have to look back ($150, I think). You probably have the same setup as me, since mine is an early '97 (which looks like a '96 - with the internal EGR). I don't think you'll find the right part at AutoZone, so, unless you want to take it apart, and wait to get the part, I'd just order it.

 

[nolimitssjca]

I recommend the fluids all be changed - Trans - Diff - Radiator - Engine.

I also recommend changing the Fuel Injectors. My ide smotthed out and the mileage soared.

 

[aldive]

I would like opinions on such things as double platinum plugs, are they worth the extra bucks??

I am a firm believer in Motorcraft double platinum plugs.

What about Sea Foam? is it helpful etc.

A truly magic elixir. However, I would not add to oil.

Do you think it might help clean the carbon out of my egr? The only trouble code it throws is "excessive egr flow"

No, the Sea Foam will not fix that issue; replace the EGR and maybe the DPFE.

It's running a mite rough at idle sometimes and I can feel a miss or two @ mid range speeds 50/60mph and that's also "sometimes" and it seems to be a gas hog. What say you folks? Can you give grampa George any salient advice??

Take a look at http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=169335&highlight=quest

 

[rizzjc]

No DPFE. He's got a 5.0. There is the EGR, and EGR sensor, which only measures the relative position of the EGR, but does not measure flow, as the DPFE does.

 

[aldive]

No DPFE. He's got a 5.0. There is the EGR, and EGR sensor, which only measures the relative position of the EGR, but does not measure flow, as the DPFE does.

Sorry, I didn't see the 5.0 part.

 

[GeorgeR]

Who read your code? The guy I spoke with today at a local parts house said that a cheap code reader is unreliable and that Fords always throw the egr code when read with a cheap reader. (He didn't offer to read it tho) Adance doesn't read them anymore around here. Something about liability. I can't stand to go in the local Auto zone. Anyone else heard about the cheap code readers? I paid about 50 bucks for mine on ebay. It read a couple of other codes when I first got it and cleared them ok. The only code the truck throws now is PO402 ex egr. When I turn off the cel it comes back on the next time I start the truck.

 

[rizzjc]

I wouldn't think that a cheap reader would read a P0402 any different than any other reader, but I don't know.

 

[aldive]

I wouldn't think that a cheap reader would read a P0402 any different than any other reader, but I don't know.

You are correct.

 

[GeorgeR]

Thanks guys, I'm of the same opinion. So, I'm going to fix the vacuum hose from the egr to the whatever and put a new sensor on it and then read it again.
I'm saving the replacement of the egr until I'm more comfortable with this engine. I'm an ace with the old 4.9 six banger that's in my Bronco, but I'm going to have to take it slow and easy with this one until I get to know it better.
I'm reasonably sure that the leaking vacuum hose makes it idle rough and uses more gas the same as it does on carbureted engines. Just don't know how much.
Basically, it doesn't run all that bad, no pinging or stalling etc. just a little rough at times, and sucks up gas especially around town. Not too bad on the turnpike. Who knows, I've seen a little 2" piece of vacuum hose cause a lot more problems than I have at the moment.
Thanks GR

 

[rizzjc]

From experience, I can save you some trouble. If you stick some pins in the wires coming out of the sensor (I know, might cause it to rust) then you can read the sensor voltage at idle. If it's over something like .4 volts (I'd have to dig out the exact spec) then it's reading that the EGR is open. If you REMOVE the sensor, and read it at idle, it should read 0 volts (or pretty darn close - again, I'd have to look it up in the repair manual). I really don't think that a sensor failure would read a voltage if it were bad, and I found that out the hard way - had to do the job twice, and now have both an EGR and sensor. If the sensor reads 0 when not attached, and something when attached, then it's the EGR. If you're gonna just replace the sensor anyway, then spend a LOT of time cleaning the EGR, especially the pin that opens and closes the air flow. That's what causes the problem.

Also, don't forget to pick up some gaskets before you get started, you'll need about 3 (throttle body, elbow, and EGR).

 

[rizzjc]

BTW, I'm not sure what you mean by "more comfortable". If you are just trying to save money, then fine, but I'm pretty sure you are taking apart just as much to get to the sensor as you will to get to the EGR.

 

[GeorgeR]

Well, what I mean by comfortable is being able to proceed without making a bunch of silly mistakes. I "think" I can get the sensor off without pulling anything else, but I won't know until I get into it. I will probably use your suggestion if I can get my DVM to work, or I'll get a new one. My analog meter works great but is somewhat clumsy in this application.
Obviously, I don't want to spend more money than I have to, but since I'm 70 years old, I want to get it in as good a shape as I can without spending as much as it cost for new one. Also I enjoy working on autos. In a past life I was a cabinet maker, locksmith, and gunsmith and still do a little of each but my vision is going and that affects auto work also. If this thing lasts a few years, then it will probably be my last vehicle. I've had my '81 Bronco for nearly 25 years and have racked up almost 300000 miles (about half off road) with 1 engine change, and one head change on the current engine, one rear end change, and 3 Borg Warner 'Brute' clutches. It still runs better than the day I bought it, but I have been working on Fords since I was about 12/13, including a stock car or two. It's just that my nerves aren't what they used to be, especially with the new stuff, but I know I will do ok especially with guys like you all to help me along over the rough spots.
Thanks a lot, GR

 

[rizzjc]

You *might* be able to get the sensor off without touching anything else .... but I don't think so. I'm about 90% sure that you'll be doing the EXACT same job TWICE if it's the EGR that needs to be replaced. You have to remove the cold air intake, the throttle body, and the elbow. That elbow is kinda a PITA to remove too.

 

[GeorgeR]

You may well be right Joe.
We will find out probably tomorrow. It's raining (badly needed) at the moment and I am working in an uncovered driveway, so that pretty well takes care of today.
If I do have to pull the intake stuff, then I will go ahead and put the new egr in and be done with it since I have it already as well as the sensor.
One thing bothers me, and that is; I thought I read some where about doing a pressure/vacuum test on the egr by putting a hose on the nipple of the egr and blowing and puffing on it to see if it holds vacuum or pressure. The egr that I bought has a clear airway, nothing happens when pulling a vacuum or blowing through the hose. Does this mean that the egr is faulty, or that it has to be installed with the sensor on it, or am I misunderstanding what I'm reading in the manual? I don't really get any sensation of vacuum from holding my finger on the crack in the hose while the engine is running.

 

[rizzjc]

If the sensor is not attached to the EGR, then it won't hold vacuum.

When you're at idle, the EGR is closed, I'm pretty sure. Makes it a bit difficult to debug that way, but I don't think you'll feel vacuum. So, you DO have a hole in the hose? Interesting, but if that's the case, then you wouldn't be able to OPEN the EGR, while your code indicates that it's not closed (the whole buildup thing I mentioned).

This link should help:
http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=35