Turning Factory Radius arms in to LongArms

[Vozar]

Has anyone Turned There factory radius arms into Long Arms? Im wanting to get rid of the pivot frame mount and Extend them and use Jhonny joints at the ends. Let see some pics If youve done it or have a similar idea.




Matt

 

[FROADER]

I'm not sure if anyone on this site has done it. Check WHITE RHINO on Pirate. I think he extended his 12".

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=540546

I Plated the stock arms grinded them down so i could sleave them with 2" 1/4 wall DOM extended them around a foot and got currie HD johnny joints.

 

[FROADER]

BTW you should update your build thread to show the "updates".

I never realized you chopped and caged it until now.

 

[Burns]

I run these:
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Extreme_radius_arms/Radius_Arms

There pretty nice. Im looking to add superflex joints to the frame ends

 

[Vozar]

Yatzee!!!!! Thats the same idea that has floating in my brain for the last couple weeks. Strength is the biggest issue, and i dont see how he plated those.




Matt

 

[FROADER]

Yeah, I don't see them plated either.

Check out this post though. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6734933&postcount=208

 

[Vozar]

I run these:
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Extreme_radius_arms/Radius_Arms

There pretty nice. Im looking to add superflex joints to the frame ends

I like those, but those are pricey. I just assume spend $150 on parts and lengthen them my self, i just want them to be strong though.

 

[Burns]

Yeah i decided to use them for there strenght and when i was going sas i needed them then and fast so i got them.

 

[Vozar]

BTW you should update your build thread to show the "updates".

I never realized you chopped and caged it until now.

I going to, Its been almost a year since i posted anything on the boards.I rolled it(Unfortunately on the street...LOL) last march and its been sitting and waiting on money and for me to make up my damn mind.I finially got the cage just about done and ive wheeled it about 4 or 5 times in the last 2 months.

 

[Vozar]

Yeah i decided to use them for there strenght and when i was going sas i needed them then and fast so i got them.

I hear ya. James Duff Makes an awesome set with johnny joints and the ends but there like 650 bucks.....

 

[Vozar]

Yeah, I don't see them plated either.

Check out this post though. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6734933&postcount=208

Awesome, thats exactly what i needed, I guess ill be pulling the arms tommorrow

 

[Burns]

moving fast here

 

[FROADER]

Take pics of the process.

 

[Ranger Digger]

Mine. 2"x0.25" DOM, 22" over stock, 2.5" Johnny Joints

 

[manaen]

The arms look great, I only have one question, You extended them past the length of the front drive shaft. Wouldnt it have been better to make them longer, but the right length that the pivot point is in line with where the front driveshaft meets the transfer case.

do you have any issues with the front shaft with the current geometry.

 

[Ranger Digger]

The arms look great, I only have one question, You extended them past the length of the front drive shaft. Wouldnt it have been better to make them longer, but the right length that the pivot point is in line with where the front driveshaft meets the transfer case.

do you have any issues with the front shaft with the current geometry.

No problems. The u-joints all have enough travel. (barely), angles are all in check, (no vibrations at highway speed), and the slip yoke has plenty of travel. The pivot point of the arms does not have to be lined up with the CV joint at the t-case for the driveline to work properly. You have to look at how much vertical travel you need at the u-joint. This is different from travel at the wheel. On mine the wheel can move up and down 26" while articulating, but the front u-joint only moves about 6". The angle on the u-joint only changes a couple of degrees and only at the extreme end of the spectrum, which only happens at low, low speeds where angles don't matter as much. For the few inches the axle moves up and down at highway speeds, the angle on the front u-joint changes less then +-1 degree which is within the limits of the u-joint to be vibration free. You would see far more angle change in the rear u-joint just from the torque twisting the rear axle if leaf sprung.

 

[manaen]

Ahh OK, So did you have to extend the front slip yoke, or are you using the stock shaft with an adapter to connect the SAS, oh and how are those hiem's holding up?

Looks great BTW

 

[Ranger Digger]

Ahh OK, So did you have to extend the front slip yoke, or are you using the stock shaft with an adapter to connect the SAS, oh and how are those hiem's holding up?

Looks great BTW

I'm using the stock front driveshaft. There are no adaptors. Both the transfercase and the front axle use Dana/Spicer 1310 U-joints, just like the stock D35 TTB front axle and BW1354 transfer case. I did have to shorten the driveshaft because the D44 has a larger diff housing and the Atlas II moves the CV joint forward. I have since found a front driveshaft off of a '95 explorer that fits my setup unmodified.

Technically I don't have heims. Johnny Joints differ from heims in that they have a poly bushing inside that helps cushion the shocks to the suspension. They are also rebuildible. So far they have been on the truck for 8 months with no maintanance and I have had no issues. I would like to install a gease zerk to gease them occasionally, but up to this point, no squeaks. Well worth the money.

 

[Vozar]

well ive decieded to ditch the arms. I picked up some d60's and im 4 linking the front


MaTT