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1993 HP D44 swap




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I had the axle cut down for me at a place called Wild west offroad. I had an earlier D44, the places where the radius arms mount were welded on, so all they had to do was remove the knuckle and cut it down and weld new ones on. with cast on wedges you have to pull the tube out of the pumpkin and that is a pain in the ass. I had the steering custom made and it is really easy to work with. feel free to ask any questions you have.
Nick:D
 



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Wristed Arms?

Way cool x you have!!!
I would like to know the whole in's and outs of wristing your radius arms. When I do mine SAS I want to do that to mine, but I would like a detailed discription of the procedure. Also what springs are those?
 






When you get closer to doing yours, just send me an email and I will give you all of the details for wristing the radius arm. The springs are Early Bronco springs. Wild Horse 5.5". They flex very nice and have good on road manners as well. Thanks for the compliments everyone.
Nick
 






if anybody wants a bit more detail on cutting down a pre 78 high pinion D44 please read this http://www.4wheeler.ca/index.php?showtopic=391
the same principle applies to almost every diff out there that has a press fit knuckle but like jacked93 said the 78-79 use a cast tube-knuckle-c bushing design that slides onto another tube welded full circle and is rosset welded into the housing..... the 78-79 D44's have a 1/4" or 3/16" wall axle tube while the pre 78's have a 1/2" thick tube (same as a D60).
sorry for the thread hijack.
 






Originally posted by Hotweels
if anybody wants a bit more detail on cutting down a pre 78 high pinion D44 please read this http://www.4wheeler.ca/index.php?showtopic=391

That's a good writeup on cutting down a high pinion Dana 44, I did just that this weekend on mine but didn't take many pics. I must say that it was easier than everyone things it would be, but precision is a necessary. My buddy who fabricates wakeboard towers had a good time putting his welding skills to work on something different. That tube takes some serious time with the chop saw too!!!
 












I sent you an email about wristing the arms and thanks again for all the compliments. Let me know if you have any questions.
Nick :thumbsup: :chug:
 






question

can you post a few pic of the radious arms and the frame how the connect, how you did it?
 






hay jacked, i need you to tell me how you bolted on the radius arms to the frame, and what upper coil buckets did you use. i have the 78 stock radius arm buckets should i use them, do i need a cross member? i still have the 5.5 lift kit. thanks
 






I used the radius arm mounts off of the bronco. They had enough drop that they worked out pretty well. I made a crossmember to fit them and I just plasma cut holes in the frame where the bolts for the radius arm mounts needed to be. I tried to find upper coil buckets for an early bronco, but instead just ended up modifying the ones off the 78. The 78's are a lot taller so I cut them down so that they were about the same height as the explorer ones and went from there. You can also adjust how much lift you want through this. I don't know what springs you are planning to use, but the taller you leave the buckets, the less lift you will have and vice versa. Also if you leave the bucket taller it will allow you to run a longer spring. I didn't want to pay to have custom springs made, so I just used the wildhorses and cut the bronco ones down and I love them. Let me know if you have any other questions, I am glad to help.
Nick
 






I have a question if you dont mind :)
Think you could measure the height of the coil's i need to figure out how tall they are with the vehicles weight on em..... i am doing the same thing with a set of 78 bronco bucket's and wanna figure out if i will need to remove the coil's to get the truck outta the garage :eek:
 






the cross member that you are talking about. what did you make it out of. is the trasfer case in the way at all. i have been looking at the pics you posted and they do not show how it was done. Can you briefly talk about what you did. the shop i am talking to wants to charge me to much money for them to do it. i am not shure what springs i want to use, somthing to give me the lift to run 36 or 37s. thanks
 






Originally posted by Hotweels
I have a question if you dont mind :)
Think you could measure the height of the coil's i need to figure out how tall they are with the vehicles weight on em..... i am doing the same thing with a set of 78 bronco bucket's and wanna figure out if i will need to remove the coil's to get the truck outta the garage :eek:
Excellent question, and information I would like to have also. I would rather setup the pinion angle with "temporary spacers" instead of the actual coils, for safety reason. If I knew a ballpark height of the coils, while compressed, it would help a lot.

Thanks!
 






the cross member that you are talking about. what did you make it out of. is the trasfer case in the way at all. i have been looking at the pics you posted and they do not show how it was done. Can you briefly talk about what you did. the shop i am talking to wants to charge me to much money for them to do it. i am not shure what springs i want to use, somthing to give me the lift to run 36 or 37s. thanks
have a look thru the whole SFA forum there are quite a few people who have just cut down the factory crossmember and welded some 1/4" plate on the ends to bolt to the radius arm bracket's, for to clear 36"-37" you will need 8" of lift or more i think.
 






I measured the coils and they are about 16.5"-17" Tall compressed depending on where you measure from, but that should give you a pretty good idea. I made my crossmember out of some 2" tubing with 3/8" plate on the end to bolt to the R/A drop downs, and 1/2" plate to mount to the tranny. What I did was get the R/A Drop downs mounted on the frame and then I jacked the tranny and t-case to the height it needed to be at and then just custom made it from there. I will try and borrow a camera and post some pictures, I still don't have a digital camera. How much is the shop trying to charge you to build it??
As far as running 36-37's, that is what I originally had in mind, but decided 35's were enough for me. I don't have a body lift, but I estimate I have between 9 and 10" of suspension lift. My fenders are also trimmed in the rear and I had to trim the stock front bumper, and I still rub bad under full tuck. I think that you could probably run 36-37s if you had a body lift, but then you start to run into a whole host of other problems if you plan do drive it on the street very often, not to mention the price difference for those few extra inches of tire. Mine is my daily driver and I love it, just need that 4" leaf pack to get rid of my shackles and correct that Pinon angle.

Thanks again for the compliments and I will try to get some pictures, keep the questions coming.
Nick:D
 






If it's not too much trouble could you send me the info on wristing the radius arm?
Thanks,
cecymm1@yahoo.com
 






Finnally got some pics of that crossmember and my new Cb.
Pics
 






I need help! My new crossmember is built now for SAS and I thought I was ready to roll it, but I think I might need to re-mount the coil buckets a litlle lower. Can you measure how far the top of your axle tube is from your frame. Our setups are similar, but not identical, but I need someone with a 44 to give me a point of reference.
 






Great job!!,
I would like to do the same. I would like to retain the abs and was wondering if you did? Did you use the knuckles from the original d35 or did you have to switch to the 5 on 5.5 wheels? I would love to here more about the swap!!!
 



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Tell me more about your tie rod set up. I am getting ready to put a 44 in my 93 Explorer, and heim joints are really to much $$$. Thanks, thjranger
 






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