1999 Explorer Blend Door Actuator | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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1999 Explorer Blend Door Actuator

it's relatively simple to just swap the head unit, you need to

1. unscrew the two bolts holding the radio/climate bezel, they are above the climate control and below the radio, they are 7 or 8mm.

2. unplug any connectors and wiring to allow the bezel to be removed out of the way.

3. set the bezel aside and unscrew the four 7 or 8mm screws holding the head unit in.

unplug the connectors and unscrew the vacuum harness, swap head unit and TEST before re-installing.

if you want pictures or a through reading of the EATC system check out http://www.cardomain.com/ride/296394/14
 



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I have a 97 sport and I finally took a look at my blend door (dropped the glove box). It's closed, when the truck is off, soon as I start it (the door opens, I can see the spinning blower motor when on) though the a/c is off. When I put the a/c on there is a slight movement from the door but it does not close. also moving the cool and heat knob seems to have no effect. any idea why?
 






Actually Bud the motor in the replacement board is hard wired. The original one from the car clipped in. On the bench we first ran power directly to the motor and verified it wasn't fried. The we applied power to the board itself and everything worked as it should. That is why I'm saying that the actuator board apppears to be functionally fine. I'm hoping someone will reply with the removal procedure for the climate control unit. Just don't want to break something trying to get to it. Would this information be in a Haynes manual?
 






ok thanks again. Not sure if you are readings all posts but there is one on the controller removal... should help.
 






No, thank YOU for all your help. I couldn't find the post. Could you send me a link or cut and paste the procedure here? Thanks!
John
 






Its just above in this thread?????.... "look way up and I'll call rusty"... :)
 






I have a 97 sport and I finally took a look at my blend door (dropped the glove box). It's closed, when the truck is off, soon as I start it (the door opens, I can see the spinning blower motor when on) though the a/c is off. When I put the a/c on there is a slight movement from the door but it does not close. also moving the cool and heat knob seems to have no effect. any idea why?

Because that is NOT the blend door. That's the door that switches from recirculated air to outside air. You cannot see the blend door. You cannot see it operate...unless you pull the evap case or cut up your plenum.
 






any reason why this wouldn't stay closed?
 






Dang...totally missed that, although I don't know how. Thanks Bud and Cali...Appreciated! Hopefully i will soon be able to resolve this issue.
 






Syn... it doesn't stay in "set position" cause.... its vacuum operated so its going to move "somewhere" when vacuum changes / stabilizes for the setting on the control.
 






any reason why this wouldn't stay closed?

because you are calling for recirculated air either by being on max a/c or having your temp turned all the way down.
 






ok.. but my knob is on cool, the only thing that bothers me is that I had a shop install poppers in my doors and well.. he used the harness of wires under the dash / steering column. I believe this to be the cause.
 






ok.. but my knob is on cool, the only thing that bothers me is that I had a shop install poppers in my doors and well.. he used the harness of wires under the dash / steering column. I believe this to be the cause.

I don't.

That motor is vacuum operated...not electrically. Turn the temp to full hot, floor ducts. See if it doesn't switch the door. You might have a vacuum line issue if it doesn't.
 






Ok, I move the cool/heat knob and nothing. its all the same, how can I trouble shoot the vaccum?
 






Did you take it off Max A/C?? Turn it to heat and the air to the floor...just like it were winter out.
 






doesn't matter what I have it on, sounds like the floor vents are always on no matter what the setting is on. this is going to sound weird but I still can't figure out what it is when it happens. I turn the dial to initiate fan, ac, or max ac and there is a thud from behind the dash. Sounds like a door closing because its all hot air.
 






Blend Door actuator no power

A Important Note

When getting into the self test mode do not turn the key on till you are holding the two buttons .. took me a while to realise this and after running this mode got the 025 error and the test restored power to the actuator.

Cheers Dickd:)
 






So I ran the self test on the acc. It went through the line going in a circle, then all of the display light up. Would not do anything until I shut off the explorer and restarted it. Now it is blowing cold air. Did I just reset it, or is this a sign of needing a new control unit?
 






I know this is an old thread but just went through a lot of trouble replacing my blend door actuator and wanted to help others who might be in this boat -- it is mentioned in many posts but the SINGLE MOST important thing to know up front in my case: know which type of HVAC system you have (EATC/automatic has the digital screen with buttons for temp settings; Manual just has knobs you turn manually) and then ENSURE the actuator you buy matches that type of system. Duh! It's not super easy to clarify, so take the time to ensure it's a match. In my case both types showed up as a perfect MATCH for my vehicle on the auto parts site, and not knowing any better I bought the cheapest one (which it turns out was for manual, which I do not have). Both types of actuators look exactly the same and even have the same plug configuration so you'll hook it up and think it's a perfect match, but unless you get the right one it will not work! You'll check fuses and waste time thinking you've got a short somewhere and read a thousand threads when all you had to do was buy the right type! For my 99 Eddie Bauer, the Dorman 604-201 worked first try once I knew the difference (it's EATC). The 604-202 Did not work (it's manual -- and unfortunately that's what I bough first). To add to the confusion, the 604-201 had an extra plastic base fitting attached to the unit, so online and in person it looks totally wrong, but that base fitting just pops off and viola it's perfect! OK, I am sorry for the length and now I will shut up and enjoy the heat.
 



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