Check out my Mountaineer! | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Check out my Mountaineer!

awesome I just found this weekends project I hope you don't mind. Did you have to modiy the box at all? And how easily did the factory sub come out?>
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Looks like your having a good time w/ that thing. More pics!
 






awesome I just found this weekends project I hope you don't mind. Did you have to modiy the box at all? And how easily did the factory sub come out?>

Why would i mind? The box itself did not need to be modified. The sub comes out easily. You need to take the box all the way out because there is bolt going from the back of the box to the back of the factory sub. The only tough (more tedious than tough) part is getting to the box. You will need to take off the entire plastic part around it. You will need a T-40 torx to take the passenger side back seat belt off. You should be able to get one at an auto parts store. One that fits a 1/4" ratchet is your best bet. After that its a couple screws under the trunk carpet, and the clothes hanger bolt and a bunch of plastic snap bolts. I also recommend Dyno Matting behind the sub box on the body of the truck and removing the insulation from the plastic molding and dyno matting that as well. I bought a 2x4 piece of Dyno mat and it worked perfectly. You also may want to consider some CPU fans run in parallel with the sub signal wire to cool your amp. Best of luck, shoot me questions if you have some!
 






hey i go to school with you at mma. when i looked at the first pics i thought it looked familiar and then the last pics i saw the lights on top a knew right away that i'd seen that before. i admire your mounty ever time i walk to and from class... i have a '00 explorer eddie bauer and i love the way your ride looks.
 












That box can also be made to fit a 10" sub, there is a write up on the forum somewhere. And the seat belt bolt is actually a T47 not a T40. And you will want at least a 3/8" or a 1/2" drive if you can find one. Those bolts are locktited in there.

Your right, i meant to write 3/8", and on the Torq as well. I would love to see the post on turning that into a 10" box. 10" subs are easy to come by, and that would kick!
 






I searched for the thread for 10" and can't find it anywhere. Would you hook me up with a link? Cause I just happen to have 2 10'' subs just sitting in my garage right now still in the box and would love to not loose any cargo space. Also I have taken my seatbelt off before but I never could get the panel all the way off. Did you have to cut yours to get the seatbelt through? I pulled it away to run the cables for my iphone 3g and my cd player. Also what did you do with all the wires ends just leave them back there or what. (the wires for the stock amp.)
 






I searched for the thread for 10" and can't find it anywhere. Would you hook me up with a link? Cause I just happen to have 2 10'' subs just sitting in my garage right now still in the box and would love to not loose any cargo space. Also I have taken my seatbelt off before but I never could get the panel all the way off. Did you have to cut yours to get the seatbelt through? I pulled it away to run the cables for my iphone 3g and my cd player. Also what did you do with all the wires ends just leave them back there or what. (the wires for the stock amp.)

I also did a lot of search for the 10" sub mod to no end. If anyone has the link that would be awesome. I honestly forget where exactly I put the wires but I did just leave them there and tuck them away.
 












Agreed with the guys above, that's a very clean Explorer, especially with everything that's installed. Looks like you took the time and planned it out, and now it's great!

I was thinking about you asking is there anyway to bring down the brightness of the gauges. Are the lights in the gauges run off of their own wires? Meaning are they lighted all the time, or only when you pull the headlight switch? Because if they're connected to the headlight switch, you should also be able to use the dimmer function just as some aftermarket radios do now. If they do indeed have their own wiring for lights, you could also install your own dimmer switch on the pillar to control just the brightness of the gauges. Just have to find a switch that would blend in and not stick out so much.

The problem with the gauges is that they are both LED lit. So just throwing a Potentiometer in there to dim them doesn't work. I did find a company that makes a specific LED dimmer...
http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessoriesdetail.aspx?vid=185
Not ideal. Hard to mount and expensive. I think each one would need its own dimmer because the LEDs are most likely different. Also I don't know how many LEDs are in each one. I would guess one but who knows. And, there is the problem that its an autometer part working with a B&M and StreetGlo gauge. I would think it would work but again who knows?
I may just throw a kill switch on them at some point. They only bother me on really dark roads. Driving in the city doesn't matter because the outside lights are so bright.
I was hoping someone out there made a gauge cover that was tinted or smoked that would fit right over the gauge. I have searched a ton on the web and in parts stores and found nothing like that.
 






Where did you find that cb antenna mount? I have been looking for one because i want my on the back. I dont really like in the front.
 






The problem with the gauges is that they are both LED lit. So just throwing a Potentiometer in there to dim them doesn't work. I did find a company that makes a specific LED dimmer...
http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessoriesdetail.aspx?vid=185
Not ideal. Hard to mount and expensive. I think each one would need its own dimmer because the LEDs are most likely different. Also I don't know how many LEDs are in each one. I would guess one but who knows. And, there is the problem that its an autometer part working with a B&M and StreetGlo gauge. I would think it would work but again who knows?
I may just throw a kill switch on them at some point. They only bother me on really dark roads. Driving in the city doesn't matter because the outside lights are so bright.
I was hoping someone out there made a gauge cover that was tinted or smoked that would fit right over the gauge. I have searched a ton on the web and in parts stores and found nothing like that.

Well You could always buy some static cling window tint and lay it over the guage. Temporary solution so if you wanted to take it off you could just peel away.
 






Where did you find that cb antenna mount? I have been looking for one because i want my on the back. I dont really like in the front.

I made that. Its steel. I forget the thickness. I cut it with a plasma cutter, bent it with the torch and drilled it out. I primed it and painted it up with the color match rattle can from NAPA. Then a little clear coat and bang! I was lucky to have access to a shop at that point that I do not now. I was taking a year off from school and working construction.
 






The solar panel mod went on this week. Full write up here:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228962
IMGP3430.jpg


IMGP3420.jpg
 






Great ride! Couple questions: How does the upgraded sub sound in the factory box? I was thinking of modding my factory box the same way and getting rid of the bulky sub enclosure I have in my Mounty. Also, how did you fasten the rails under the seats for the amp and power converter?
 






Great ride! Couple questions: How does the upgraded sub sound in the factory box? I was thinking of modding my factory box the same way and getting rid of the bulky sub enclosure I have in my Mounty. Also, how did you fasten the rails under the seats for the amp and power converter?

The aftermarket sub and amp sound great! I highly recommend dyno matting the area behind it. It is an amazing upgrade. One day I will get to buying the 10" thing but for now it rocks. Not the kind of base you are gonna hear putting ripples in the pavement outside but plenty loud inside. its an awesome sound mod for under $150 at the most, if you internet shop carefully.

As for the rails. If you look under your rear seats look at the way the seat material is attached. It is done with a white plastic strip. I used an exacto to cut that to get to the small "rod" underneath in a few strategic locations. Then I cut a couple metal slats to the right size to fit under there transversely. From there I drilled a couple holes and used wire hold downs. They are the things that have a loop for wire and can be drilled into the wall. I found them that fit around that bar and used bolts. I will take some pictures of what I am talking about when I get home. But I am currently at sea posting from an internet cafe in the Caribbean. I will back shore side in a couple weeks and I will put some pictures up.

Thanks for the compliment. Good luck with your mods!:thumbsup:
 






Back
Top