Something w/ rabbits. 72.5 pages of BS

So seeing as spring is just around the corner, I thought I'd start a thread on the future undertaking of swapping in the Dana 60.

The axle is from a 1986 "Fawwd" F-threee "fitty", sporting some kingpins and a whole lot of rust. I took this axle apart a few months ago (except stupid me didnt remove the pinion nut before breakdown ) and had it hot tanked. I wanted it sandblasted, but the machine shop owner smirked and said "naaah yo, that junx is too big for my blasting cabinet" .. okay except he didn't really say that cauz he's old and a really cool guy. ANyways *twirls blonde hair*, this is my plaannn:

- WMS-WMS this axle is just a bit over 69" wide so I'm going to cut the passenger's side down a few inches to match 'ye ol General Motors 14-bolt axle. So this is going to require custom axle shafts and I think I'm going to go Chromos and 35-spline outers off the bat from the most awesome guys at Complete Off Road.

- Drive flange or lockouts? They are about the same in price and its a dedicated trail rig so I'm leaning towards the drive flanges. Right now, the cheapest flanges I found are the Teraflexes at $180 for a pair. If anyone knows of a better deal, please let me know !!

- High-steer arms and a double-ended hydroponics goodness ("cylinder").

- Opposite-ended panhard bar! The idea is to mount the chassis end of the panhard on the passenger's side frame rail and the axle end on the driver's side. Doing so should allow a more simple and cleaner design since the axle-mount can be mounted on top of or near the differential housing, instead of a tower on the passenger's side (like in my current D44 setup). I also plan to boost the panhard as far up as possible to increase the roll center of the front suspension. Yeah the concept is a little strange but I'm hoping it'll work and won't have any issues (no drag-link to factor into the design). But if anyone knows of any problem running this config, please chime in!

*EDIT*
- Detoit Locker for the carrier. I'm please with how the Detroit in the 14-bolt has performed so I figured I'd run the same in the front. Of course 5.13s to match the 14-bolt.


So here's the little guy, he's been in this position for the past few months just collecting dust:

 

[IZwack]

Hehe -- I ordered the AC-Delco one yesterday, darnit!

 

[IZwack]

I'm going to install the M5 this weekend but before that, I found this "shim" puck looking thing between the automatic transmission's flywheel and the engine block. For those who have done the conversion to a manual transmission, you discarded this puck correct?

 

[Nick26]

I'm going to install the M5 this weekend but before that, I found this "shim" puck looking thing between the automatic transmission's flywheel and the engine block. For those who have done the conversion to a manual transmission, you discarded this puck correct?

I would assume so... here's pictures of my flywheel when I did my clutch. Note I have an OHV and a regular M5OD so it might be different the the SOHC and HD, but i wouldn't think so. I did not have any puck like thing like that.

 

[IZwack]

Got it -- thanks Nick!

 

[IZwack]

I put a centerforce clutch in mine and there is nothing special about it... I think it had a LuK symbol stamped right on it (probably just rebadged).

The AC-Delco clutch kit came in today and its also stamped LuK:

 

[Nick26]

The AC-Delco clutch kit came in today and its also stamped LuK:

ah ha, interesting, I wonder if the pressure plate is just remanufactured with new fingers and a new clutch disc.

 

[Stic-o]

The AC-Delco clutch kit came in today and its also stamped LuK:

Ahhh...do you know his "Father":

 

[91exploreron37]

I guess luk is a major producer of clutch parts and instead of ac-delco buying all the clutch-making equipment they just go to luk with their specs and have them make them, just like how alot of companies get thier springs from Eibach.

 

[iammattchew]

Why not the automatic? I would think an auto would be better for crawling?

Awesome work. You must work for the GOVT at the rate you're going... hehe

 

[410Fortune]

there is a spacer for the manual flywheel also, its just not the same part as the spacer for the auto flexplate

 

[Justin Klare]

i am very disappointed with my luk dial-a-clutch. i am fixing to get me a centerforce dual friction clutch.

 

[410Fortune]

My LUK GOLD rep set never worked well either, what I did was have a local clutch builder replace the friction material on the driven disc with kevlar Oh baby what a difference! The weighted pressure plate that Centerforce uses would also be a good benefit for our trucks. I have heard over the years people very happy with centerforce stage II in our trucks


Luk gold has worked for me in other trucks just fine though, just never happy with it in my BII years ago

 

[Nick26]

i am very disappointed with my luk dial-a-clutch. i am fixing to get me a centerforce dual friction clutch.

That's the thing... if i recall correctly they don't make a real dual friction clutch, with finger weights, for our trucks because they can't fit the center weights inside the M5 bellhousing.

http://centerforce.com/clutches.tpl...UCK, SUV & VAN&carmodel=EXPLORER&caryear=1999

Here is the only clutch they make for our trucks(notice no center weights) and the stock one is below it...

 

[91exploreron37]

But the centerforce pressure plate has more clamping force than the stock pressure plate and notice how the centerforce's friction material is also different from the stock one. Even though its only on one side I could really tell a big difference when I upgraded over an oem clutch I bought directly from ford.

 

[IZwack]

Transmission temporarily in for now so I can get to some of the welds later on:

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The dealer had to order (straight from Detroit) a new rear cover cauz the ones for the automatic and the manual are different.

Manual cover overlayed on top of the automatic's cover:

Automatic's cover overlayed on top of the manual's cover:

First obvious difference is that the manual's is flat where as the automatic's has a ridge that runs vertically on the passenger's side:

Next major difference is the starter hole and required me to get a new starter for a manual Explorer:

The next difference is that the manual's cover ignores the two bolt notches at the top:

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

As for the spacer that goes between the engine and the "flexplate", I did some measurement and it is not needed. When mounted, the manual's flywheels' teeth are approximately 1/3" of an inch "back" from the engine block's surface. The starter's teeth is 1/4" of an inch "back" from the block's surface. Therefore, there is approximately a 1/8" of an inch clearance between the starter and the flywheel -- which makes sense.

 

[Willard]

Here IZ, something you should probably look at in case you haven't about the M5OD:

http://www.explorerforum.com/Singleton/web/pages/manual.html

 

[IZwack]

Here IZ, something you should probably look at in case you haven't about the M5OD:

http://www.explorerforum.com/Singleton/web/pages/manual.html

Thanks for the info devilboy! I did read a short blurb about those plugs somewhere but brushed it aside. But after reading that page, I will definitely look/replace those plugs.

 

[BKennedy]

I was looking at the tube work around the rear of the engine and I have two questions;
Where are you going to put your feet?

Are you going to sit in the lotus position and make this the "Meditation Buggy"?

 

[IZwack]

I was looking at the tube work around the rear of the engine and I have two questions;
Where are you going to put your feet?

Are you going to sit in the lotus position and make this the "Meditation Buggy"?

Hehe -- there's enough room for a pair of feet and three pedals. The engine is shifted to the passenger's side to make room for the driver since the driver needs more room (among other reasons). Maybe the image below is a better angle .. or not (FAIL). I have started a little bit on the cage / tube work (but no pics) cauz these need to be established before the shocks can be mounted so maybe in the next few weeks I'll post up a pic of where my feet will end up.

 

[SuRrEaLNJ]

i know i know, well cut you off at the knees and give you hand controlls....

and then when were spoting you rather then give you good comands well just yell "pull the lever... no the other lever..."