Part info, broken vacuum line?? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Part info, broken vacuum line??

omagasohe

Member
Joined
March 9, 2009
Messages
19
Reaction score
1
City, State
Portsmouth, VA, USA
Year, Model & Trim Level
03 Explorer XLT
i bought a 91 ranger 3 days ago, she was idling great when i test drove her, perv owner changed a bad alternator, and she was idling like a 90 yr old about to die. Searched around the engine, and found this. the oil cap goes on top.

img_00042.jpg


Whats the name for this part, is is easy to medium level to fix it?

i just don't want to take it to a shop to find out i could fix it for 20 bucks and an hour of my time. Please help.
 



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You want a great fix, or a cheapo good fix?

cheapo-==
Clean off the oil the best you can. use a solvent of some type

Split a small length of old radiator hose--slide it over the tube with the split facing the opposite side of the hole

Maybe back it up with some gasket rtv smeared around the inside of the split hose

then, use 2 hose clamps to clamp it in place.
I really think it would work


The right ( expensive) way?

replace the valve cover and gasket


Edit--

is there a breather tube fitting which is supposed to be there?

if so you will need a new valve cover-
 






You want a great fix, or a cheapo good fix?

cheapo-==
Clean off the oil the best you can. use a solvent of some type

Split a small length of old radiator hose--slide it over the tube with the split facing the opposite side of the hole

Maybe back it up with some gasket rtv smeared around the inside of the split hose

then, use 2 hose clamps to clamp it in place.
I really think it would work


The right ( expensive) way?

replace the valve cover and gasket


Edit--

is there a breather tube fitting which is supposed to be there?

if so you will need a new valve cover-


There is indeed a breather tube going from the oil filler to the intake air duct. If the port on the air duct is open there will be a way incorrect reading from the MAF and the engine computer won't be able to operate the engine properly. I'm surprised there aren't some CEL codes- or is there?

There should be a way to repair this without having to replace the entire valve cover. Round out the hole, clean the broken edges, and use a threaded type tubing fitting, so long as it clears the filler cap. The hose to the duct appears to be about 1/2" ID.
 






Yes i'm a cheapo. Just bought the truck friday, not looking for large repair bils, will look into a threaded pipe/valve cover repair. thanks for the replys. just need what it was part store people are either very knowledgable or clueless, and i happen to fall in with the later.
 






Yes i'm a cheapo. Just bought the truck friday, not looking for large repair bils, will look into a threaded pipe/valve cover repair. thanks for the replys. just need what it was part store people are either very knowledgable or clueless, and i happen to fall in with the later.

The threaded fitting is just thinking out loud, but it might work. What I have in mind is something like this:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/6X411


In the meantime, until it's fixed, somehow plug the open holes in both the valve cover and especially in the air duct.
 






ended up trying a "radiator" hose repair kit. trimmed off most of one end, enlarged the hole just large enough to fit, applied a liberal amout of high temp RTV. Your thinking out loud helped. I'll have to get a new valve cover i've notice it's getting pretty brittle, i was breaking the plastic more than anything else when enlarging the hole, i think the threaded fitting would have hurt a little more than helped.

About the engine codes, the truck runs fine, and will idle after it drives for two or three minutes, but on cold start, it'll die if you don't give it gas. i;ll try it in an hour or so to give the rtv a little more time to set up.
 






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