do they make shock extensions for explorers

[bobdreadknot]

iv some looking but nothing seems to come up with our shock mount thread count. anyone know of anything?

 

[gijoecam]

Not really sure what you're asking... Not sure what a shock mount extension would accomplish either... Care to elaborate?

 

[Gay-briel]

Not really sure what you're asking... Not sure what a shock mount extension would accomplish either... Care to elaborate?

allows you to run stock length shocks with a tbar crank and rear shackles


I know they make stud extenders for the front

not sure what they have for the rear

 

[TarHeel085]

gay-briel is right, they should sell stud extenders at your local auto parts store. for the rear you could get longer bolts and using some kind of "puck" in between the shock and crossmember.

just out of curiosity why are you looking for these? ive run a stock length shock for like 4+ years with a TT and no ill affects.

 

[IZwack]

Why not just get longer shocks?

 

[gijoecam]

Why not use the stock shocks? Cranking the torsion bars doesn't change the suspension geometry, so why do you need longer shocks? Longer shocks will compromise up-travel and likely allow too much down-travel, letting the suspension hyper-extend the CV joints, and playing with the steering geometry. It could potentially cause binding (and eventually breakage) of the ball joints. If you look at the angles of the control arms, ball joints, tie rods, and halfshafts at full droop, then let the suspension droop 2" or further, that's just asking for trouble.

The only longer ones I've seen are designed for a 4" suspension lift on a Ranger... In *theory* the bodies should be about 4" longer on them, but they're not going to have any more travel... You'd just be limiting your up-travel with them (because they would be further compressed at rest) running the risk of bottoming them out, and could over-extend the suspension at full droop. Why would anyone want to do that??

 

[IZwack]

I thought this was for the back and the poster has a 2wd (signature). And most off vehicles are biased for droop and sit with most of their shocks compressed at ride height, especially the back. Althought your right, the shock would bottom out if not measured correctly.

 

[gijoecam]

Missed the 2wd in the sig.... good catch.

But the suspension geometry is the same... There's still the issue of the ball joints and tie rods.... Not gonna be good for 'em...

 

[bobdreadknot]

I just bought new shock this week and when I put them in there didn't seem to be any play in the shock at full droop. I just don't want to pull the shock apart when im driving or anything. I don't wheel the truck anymore since I got my buggy so theres no flexing going on. I just wanted to play it safe and get a couple more inches of movment at the top of the shock before its fully extended.. but if its not going to be a big deal with stock lenth shocks that's just fine.
Posted via Mobile Device

 

[gijoecam]

I just bought new shock this week and when I put them in there didn't seem to be any play in the shock at full droop.

Why would you expect there to be play at full droop? The shock is what normally limits the down-travel...

 

[Maniak]

The shock should not limit travel. If it limits the travel on the compression stroke it can and will most likely eventually break the shock mount if the shock doesn't break first.

The droop isn't normally as bad of an issue but it is still bad for the shocks. Some companies do put in internal bushings at the end of the shocks travel to help this, but that what limit straps are for (one reason to use them).

Also, as I am reading the thread, we are talking about front shocks since neither mount on the rear shock uses a post style. If this is the case, a longer shock shouldn't be needed since you aren't changing the springs, you are just changing the preload on the torsion bar.

~Mark

 

[gijoecam]

The shock should not limit travel. If it limits the travel on the compression stroke it can and will most likely eventually break the shock mount if the shock doesn't break first.

The droop isn't normally as bad of an issue but it is still bad for the shocks. Some companies do put in internal bushings at the end of the shocks travel to help this, but that what limit straps are for (one reason to use them).

In compression, there's a rubber bump-stop mounted to the frame that hits the lower control arm. In droop, however, the shock does limit the down-travel of the wheel whether there's an internal bump-stop or not. Yeah, it's probably not good for it, but it's all there is on an Explorer.

a longer shock shouldn't be needed since you aren't changing the springs, you are just changing the preload on the torsion bar.

~Mark

Ditto.

 

[bobdreadknot]

if thats all the explorers got then its not going to be a big deal. i didnt know the shock limits the down travel, i figured i was eventually going to pull the piston right out of the chamber. : im still learning new things.

 

[Maniak]

I can't speak for 2nd gen's (IFS) but on 1st gens (TTB), the RA bushing and sway bar linkage will limit the droop way before the shock does.. even w/out the sway bar the RA bushing will limit the travel..

~Mark