Trying to remove a broken stud bolt! | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Trying to remove a broken stud bolt!

ohe_boy

Well-Known Member
Joined
April 10, 2004
Messages
724
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City, State
Kane'ohe, Hawaii
Year, Model & Trim Level
'94 4x4 XLT
I wanted to remove the waterpump from the 5.0L engine (its out of the explorer) so I started removing the bolts and stud bolts. Anyway, one of the stud bolts snapped just inside of the waterpump hole. Not a problem (just yet), continued removing the remaining bolts and stud bolts and removed the waterpump.

Now I need to remove that broken stud bolt. About 1/2 an inch or so is sticking out from the timing chain cover. I tried using my stud extractor but that didn't work. Tried using a vise grip and, of course it just slips. I used WD-40 but not sure how it'll get all the way into the engine block where the threads are. :rolleyes:

Anybody else got any ideas?? Hoping I don't need to remove the timing chain cover.
 



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Try to find a spray lube called "Kroil". We use it offshore for rusted fasteners.

Soak the bolt down. Take a small ball peen hammer and "Shock" the head a few times then let it sit for a few hours and try to remove.

Kroil is usually very good about "running" into the threads.
:usa:
 






take a file / dremel and "square up" the bolt so that a wrench / vise grip can get a grip.
 












Or do like I did and didn't worry about it. I had the same thing happen last fall to me. I just cut it off square at the t-chain cover and made sure I had plenty of RTV to seal it.

As many bolts as there is one missing is not going to be a problem.
 






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I have that KD Tool Stud Extractor and with that 1/2" stud sticking out, there's not much meat for it to grab. I tried using a heat gun to heat it up a few times. I banged on it a few times, and just used wd-40 as my liquid freeing agent ( all I had around). Still stuck in there and not budging. May need to look around for another liquid freeing agent.

Or I'll go and pick up a set of extracting "bolt-out" socket set!
 












Or do like I did and didn't worry about it. I had the same thing happen last fall to me. I just cut it off square at the t-chain cover and made sure I had plenty of RTV to seal it.

As many bolts as there is one missing is not going to be a problem.

Will this work? Will it be ok without this one bolt? It does have a lot of bolts!
 






i wouldnt run it without a bolt


get the stud out.... tighten up the vice grips, is there enough threads to double nut it and remove it that way? my ace hardware stocks jam nuts, that are thinner than regular nuts


use a product called pb blaster....
 






i wouldnt run it without a bolt
get the stud out....


I agree! I need/want to get that sucker out and replace it. All of them!


tighten up the vice grips,

Been doing that and its wearing the stud down..wondering how tight becomes the point of no return to where there won't be that half inch sticking out anymore.

is there enough threads to double nut it and remove it that way? my ace hardware stocks jam nuts, that are thinner than regular nuts

no threads, only stud remaining. The stud broke just inside of the jam nut closest to the engine block.

what i could do is get a die set and create new threads and place nuts on that.

use a product called pb blaster....

thinking i should pick me up a can tomorrow! Only thing, will it get pass the timing chain cover gasket and through to the threads inside the engine block? And if the pb blaster gets through the gasket, will it mean that the gasket is no longer a gasket-ing? Possible oil leak in future?
 






How much of a pain is it to remove the timing chain cover and remove the stud that way, replace the gasket and button everything back up with a new set of studs and bolts?
 






Finally got that sucker out!!! Just added some heat, banged on it and used the vise grips to get it out!! Oh and of course a slow approach and some patience! Whew!! Thanks for all the help guys!!
 






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