1994 Exp XLT 4x4 5sp Bad Problems

[deadbird]

Well NAPA finally got me my pressure regulator and I replacved it and it does not work. What else could it be? Do you guys have a no start checklist?

 

[H munster]

You need to pull the codes. You will just spend time and money replacing stuff until something finally works. I refused to take mine to a shop to get it read so I bought a reader ( didnt work) so I read how to get the codes without 1. Pretty easy really. Mine was similar to yours except the no start turned out to be an o2 sensor. After i did all the things you have done.

 

[dartleader]

Instructions to get the Codes without a code reader

Deadbird

We have the same or maybe a similar problem with our trucks. I'm into my problem since September 6th. and still have not solved it. I'm also into it for about a grand without fixing the problem. Its even been to the dealer.

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13

That is a link which tells you how to use the blinks of your check engine light to reveal the error codes from your system.

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=45

This page lists the codes.

Let me know if you come up with a Fix for yours?

I have replaced the

Idle control valve
MAF
EGR sensor
Manifold air temp sensor
Fuel Pump
Fuel Pressure Regulator
All the Fuel injectors
Air Flow manifold (air cleaner pipe) between the MAF and Throttle body
Plugs

Same problem Runs way too rich, has no power, feels like its running out of gas, has a hard time idling.

So now I'm waiting for a Coil and Ignition control module to show up because I have run out of ideas.

On an interesting note with both have manual transmissions and one of my codes was the 552 the VSS (varialble speed sensor) which reads driving speeds off the transmission and feeds them to the computer. It would be interesting to see if yours came up with that code.

Good luck let me know if you solve this mystery, Tom

 

[deadbird]

I accidentally cleared my codes by dis the battery.

 

[dartleader]

I'm getting Getting close

Ok so I replaced the coil and the Ignition Control Module and guess what? No difference, I got the catalytic convertor hooked up as it seemed like it could have collapsed inside. My truck was just running all crappy still and big clouds of black smoke it was barely idling and I disconnected the MAF. The engine smoothed out I took it for a test drive and it now runs great. Today I went back to Checker and got another Cardone MAF sensor and in about five minutes of driving this one had my truck dying and barely idling, unplug it runs great, drove around all day in limp mode.

So I think I may have isolated the problem to be in the wiring as I can't imagine three defective MAFs from Checker. I bought a volt meter today and going to see what is coming out of that sensor.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/CleanMAF.html


I guess it could still be the EEC computer, and I'm still considering the getting a TPS and MAF from a junk yard, but I should check the wires first.

Good luck.

 

[deadbird]

Did yours seem to get good and bad? If it did that is exactly what mine was doing with one diffrence. Mine wont start. I am begining to think that the no start and the orginal problem are un-related.

 

[doonze]

Just keep in mind, when you unplug the MAF and send the system into "limp home" or closed loop operation, it's not JUST the MAF it's ignoring.... we think.

What I mean is, I haven't been able to prove or disprove it, but the general thought around here is when you unplug the MAF it puts more then just the MAF into closed loop, like maybe the O2's at least, and maybe the temp sensor (not the guage, but the temp sender for the PCM). Maybe even more. What it does is put that system in factory defaults, and as luck would have it, it run's pretty good if everything else is ok.

 

[deadbird]

Update- Well I went to the local JY. I didnt find any 94 5sp 4wd. The only part that I could find that would even do anything for me was a TPS. I bought and replace it and fiddled around with some other stuff. It still does not start. I am stumpped and I have no way to get it to a mechanic.

 

[nitro71]

Pretty sure any sensor from a 91-94 will swap in without probs. Doesn't have to be a 5spd, could be a automatic. You should see if it's generated any codes now that you have reconnected the battery. You need to slow down on your trouble shooting. Work on one system. Make sure it's working properly. Then move on to the next. Check for codes. If you think the CAT is bad you could take it off and see if it's clogged up. Try starting without it on the vehicle.

 

[Currency]

What I mean is, I haven't been able to prove or disprove it, but the general thought around here is when you unplug the MAF it puts more then just the MAF into closed loop, like maybe the O2's at least, and maybe the temp sensor (not the guage, but the temp sender for the PCM). Maybe even more. What it does is put that system in factory defaults, and as luck would have it, it run's pretty good if everything else is ok.

I've heard this about resetting the computer by disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes also. Can't remember where I read it but they said not to do it. Because the explorer will have to relearn everything that was saved in the computer and thus = to not as good gas mileage until it relearns everything.

Edit: Read it somewhere in my haynes manual.

 

[dartleader]

WTFK it was the computer

Well if you read my earlier post you can see I fixed just about everything and nothing work solved the problem. Then I got a volt meter and decided to check everything I could figure out how to check. The various grounds, at least I have the ford wirring diagnostic book which shows where and how all the wirring runs on the truck so that made it a little easier. I did find the main ground on the EDIS module had a loss of 2 volts someplace so I ran a new ground to the battery. Still problem not solved. Still will not idle and barely running unable to drive. I checked all the ground pins in the computer hook up they were all good. Checked the voltage going through the Fuel Pump cutoff switch higher than suppose to be but not too low. Then I thought it must be the computer. I had taken the cover off an looked for a puffed out capacitor everything looked good. One for my truck on ebay but the guy wanted $60 for it so I put a email out on some internet junk yard parts list and got an email back from Ed at Wagners Van and Truck parts in Pennsylvania, that said he had one for my truck for $45 with priority mail shipping. Continued

 

[dartleader]

OK I was skeptical that the right one would show up but it did mine was a YAM1 and the one that showed up was the same model. I started my truck to make sure it was still running crappy and when I plugged in the MAF sensor it died. Just like it has been doing for the last 45 days. Hooked up the new computer from the junk yard. Start the truck right up idle is at 1100 but its running perfectly smooth. Computer takes a while to learn my new idle profile, works it way down to 700 rpm running smoothly. Go for a test drive runs perfect, no lights, no stalls no engine dying runs better than it has in five years but that is probably because I fixed a lot of stuff or its new. My advice if you can get a computer for Under $50 I would start there. Here is the place I got my computer from. I paid with a credit card. tell him the guy in Arizona recommended him wagnerparts@zoominternet.net

 

[dartleader]

The new computer also solved something I thought was wrong with the TPS sensor, when I would back off on the gas it would kind of choke, that was happening 2 or 3 years ago and now its gone. The idle is at 1100 when the truck is rolling if I push in the clutch but as soon as I stop rolling it goes back down to 700 rpm. I think that is different but I could see that as a computer parameter of a manual transmission.

Now the big question, I had spilled a bottle of tide on the passenger side carpet about six months ago and washed it out a few days before all these problems started. It took 30 minutes of running the hose to get all the tide out of the carpet so you can imagine the amount of water I'm talking about. It was completely soaked and only 4 inches from the computer behind the kick panel, although the computer is sealed in plastic and there were no signs of water, all that moisture might have been bad for it or it could have just been slowly deteriorating for the last couple of years. After all it has been baking in the Arizona sun for 16 years.

 

[deadbird]

Well I am not living in a new house and have more time to fix this problem. How do I know what computer to get? Just pull my old one out and look for numbers? I may try it. I am going to get a scanner today.

 

[pmCortez]

i second dartleader. my grandpa has a 95 f-150 with a 351, i understand it is different in every way but his truck was doing similar things untill it eventually stopped running. he got it to a shop they replaced the brain and its been fine ever since. you might be able to go to a junk yark and rip one out of the same year/model x for cheap. i know these x's r the same 91-94 but i would get the same year just to be safe.

 

[deadbird]

Ran my codes. Got a EGR fault(33) and a MAF to high(56). Now what?

 

[deadbird]

I replaced the EGR and the EGR pressure Sensor. No Luck. Back to square 1?

 

[pmCortez]

we posted above, try the computer

 

[deadbird]

Ya he said he needs a part number.

 

[medefries]

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