How to: 2002 Explorer rear wheel bearing replacement (pictures)

[lrm]

You either need bigger tools or more muscles.lol. But seriouly they dont just pop off. You gotta put some weight behind it.

I broke three wrenches turning the puller. The threads on the puller are very worn in the spot I've been cranking them on. I hit the tip of the CV spindle with a hammer first, then a plumbers wrench with the nut backed off so I didn't damage the spindle. Lots of PB blaster on the hub, tho it's hard to get it in the right spot. I have been hammering on it two different days. If I bring it in a shop to do I'm afraid they'll just bust it and charge me to replace the CV axle.

Is there a way to open the CV joint and get the spindle out? Or is the next step to replace the rear axle?

 

[Tyler92]

Are you sure you have everything disconnected from the hubs? Are you using this type puller? It sounds like you may have a puller that may not be up to the task. Pulling the hub off the spline was one of the easier things to do. You may want to try another puller. Remember, the hub, backing plate, and knuckle come off as one piece.

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[josh93rodeo]

This was a great "how to". Just wanted to say thanks. I just finished this job on my 02'. The only thing I did different was I pressed the bearings in/out with my 12 ton shop press so I didn't have to pay for that.

Thanks for a great how to. This is the stuff that makes this such a great forum.

 

[jpoprock]

Wow! This is brilliant! Thank you so much! What a coincidence... My rear srping is broken too. I'm convinced Lowes broke that for me slamming paver stomes down to hard onto my trailer. I had a guy that was doing some body work for me attempt to fix it, but he only toed in a second spring and didn't remove all of what was broken! So, it needs a new one. Those Midas spring/shock things look cool.

My buddy has done this before, so he's doing the work for me. I only planned on doing the rears, and was only going to replace the hub/bearing. Not the ABS cable, brakes, seals, etc. I hope that is good enuff.

 

[ProGun3400]

Tyler, Thank you much for the pics and write up. Getting ready to tackle this job soon. Have one howling on my (03 Explorer) drivers side rear. Replaced both fronts after the last brake job and discovering drivers side going bad.

 

[fordbluefamily]

I had the rears go out 16K miles after doing this job. I think it was due to me re-using the axle nut. Word of advice, this is one job you dont want to do twice or pay for twice, or worse yet, have your wheel depart the vehicle. Either use a ton of thread locker, or do the right thing and buy new axle nuts!

 

[jpoprock]

I'm going to be doing my rear springs and my rear hubs this weekend. I'm so excited about it too. I'm sick of the roar!

I ordered Timken hubs and bearings... and they did not come with any seals or anything like that. I have read that I really need to consider replacing those too. So hopefully AutoZone or Napa has those in stock or can get them by Sat morning I'm in big trouble.

I'm also hoping that getting my springs off aren't going to be big deal.

I do have one question though... my neighbor has a bearing press. So, should I have him press my bearings on to the hubs before I go to my buddy's house to do all the work, or does that have to be done "on the truck"? If not, then I could save me a lot time maybe.

Thanks!

Jason

 

[Tyler92]

To everyone above. You're all welcome. Glad this helped you all.
Jpoprock, As far as pressing the hub/bearing assembly, you need to remove the old one first and press it off it. The backing plate goes between the hub and bearing so it must be removed from the truck. You'll see when you get it apart.
Good luck.

 

[jpoprock]

Boy, talk about irony! I'm getting this stuff done in the morning... and tonight while coming back from Autozone (rented the hub puller and plate!), my rear starts grinding and sloshing around BAD. I hadn't heard that noise before.. only a roar. These suckers are getting ready to go bad PRONTO. I need to be careful driving home tonight (30mi).

Also, Autozone acted like seals, CV seals, axle seals, etc.. were some kind of super special order. Like I was an idiot or something. So, the ONLY thing I have to do this job, are the bearings, plates, and C clip. No new nuts, no seals, no nothing. HOPEFULLY that is all it will take. Because it's looking like I'll need to ORDER stuff, and that won't be good. I can't be without my truck! And once this stuff is apart... there is no turning back.

Tyler... what if my bearings are so bad, that they literally fall or pull out? Is that possible? Or will they need pressed out no matter what?

Thanks!
Jason

 

[fordbluefamily]

The bearings and hub themselves may well fall out, but the race they are sitting in will need pressed/cut out. The only seals I can see at the knuckle look integrated into the halfshaft CV boot, unless your talking about the diff seals. Just as a note, i used some spline grease on the halfshaft when I did bearings in the spring. The halfshafts slid right out without the need for a puller this time. It stopped the rust from building up in there.

 

[Tyler92]

Yes, just what Fordblue said. The bearings may fall ut but he race isn't going anywhere.
Let us know how you make out.

 

[mjp3262]

What if .................!

The coil springs are broken. how do you use the spring compressor on them? Or do you even use a compressor if the coils are broken? I don't wanna get killed tryin to remove them but I want to put the "Quick Struts" on! LOL

 

[fornetti14]

Thanks for the excellent write up! I'm looking at this job over the holidays.
All of my bearings have been done at the dealer (one of them twice) by the previous owner so hopefully everything comes apart easier for me.

 

[mdes0]

Thank you so much

Just buttoned my 02 back up after doing the passenger side rear bearing. I can't thank you enough for the great instructions.

I ended up buying the bearing at Autozone for 100 bucks. Also borrowed a slide hammer and hub attachment from them which worked great when it came to pulling the hub off the half shaft.

Thanks again.

 

[rick72_us]

Disconnecting Parking Brake Cable?

I am currently working on replacing my left rear hub and bearing. These posts have been really helpful. I want to leave the parking brake shoes attached if possible since I just replaced these and getting the shoes back in is a real pain. I can't easily see how to detach the parking brake cable from the levers. Can someone explain to me how to do that or direct me to a post or link that explains it? Thanks again for these helpful posts.

 

[mdes0]

I know what you mean, getting those springs back in are a pain. After pressing the bearing out and back in I think having the PB shoes in place will be a real headache once you get to that point.
I found the easiest way to get the PB springs installed was by using a small punch. I put the punch in the hook of the spring and into the hole in the shoe then slide the spring into the hole down the punch. Worked pretty well.

 

[xlt03]

A long scratch awl works better. Slender and long with point to fit into slot. If you bought a tool set (ie. screwdrivers, wrenches) from Sears, you probably have one in the set.

 

[rick72_us]

Disconnect Parking Brake Cable

Thanks for the advice on installing the parking brake shoe springs. I will probably remove them to replace the hub bearing. How do I disconnect the parking brake cable from the levers so that I can remove the knuckle from the vehicle? Thanks for your help.

 

[xlt03]

You need to give some slack for the parking brake cable. From the driver door look underneath the vehicle and locate the frame. You'll see brake cable. Look at your parking brake pedal assembly from inside of vehicle. You'll see there's a small hole in the mechanism, the end of cable goes to the mechanism. Reach under vehicle with driver door opened and using your hands pull on the cable, at the same time look at the hole on parking brake mechanism. When the cable is reeled out of the mechanism stick a 5/32" drill bit to "hold" the mechanism in place which prevents it from pulling the cable back. Now there should be slack in the cable. Go to each of the rear wheels and disconnect the cable from the levers. Do one side at a time. Now you can proceed.

 

[miker104]

Tyler,

Thanks for the great write up and pictures. I now believe that I can perform this task with a bit of tool help from my friends.

Thanks again!