Flasher Issue Help!

[rmwags]

Just bought an 05 4x4 4.0l explorer. After driving a while I noticed that the flashers would stay on solid when turning left or right. It does this intermittently. Spoke to a Ford tech and he said it was probably the multi function switch. Changed it, $89.00 ugh...Still having the issue. Changed all the bulbs and it still happens. The only thing left that I'm aware of is the flasher fuse.
Any help on trouble shooting this would be greatly appreciated.

 

[borland]

My turn signals work properly, but I noticed on my 2002XLT, that if I run the turn signals and stand outside the truck, I can hear a clicking sound coming from the engine compartment. It sounds like a relay clicking on and off. I wonder why there's another relay, because the flasher relay is located under the instrument cluster and can be heard while driving the truck with the turn signals flashing.

Have you tried replacing the flasher relay? It's pretty easy to replace, but since you probably need to pry it loose with a small flat bladed screwdriver, you should first disconnect the battery ground.

 

[rmwags]

Was told if the flasher relay is bad it would not work at all. Not sure if this true or not.

 

[borland]

The flasher, besides flashing the lights, is supposed to stop flashing the lights, including the dash light, when you have a burned out bulb.

Apparently that burnt bulb detection function on yours is intermittant.

The next time when the turn signals stop working, see if the emergency flashers still work.

 

[rmwags]

Thx Borland. Yes the emergency flashers still work. Sometimes it actually resets the solid light. I'm thinking it's either a wiring issue or the contacts where the bulbs plug in need to be cleaned.

 

[tac27]

Replacing the Flasher Relay

I'm trying to replace the flasher relay; unfortunately the engineer who designed its location is having a good laugh at my expense. I've removed the lower driver's side dash panel, the emergency release brake handle, the diagnosis port attached to the bracket holding the release brake, and unscrewed the three 7 mm screws holding the fuse tray. The tray is loose and I can move it around an inch or two. The challenge is that the there are screw mounts that protrude out far enough that limits further travel of the tray. No other cords or wiring are in the way; there is emough 'slack' in them that I can move them aside of the tray. It seems like the only way is to completely disassemble the main brace that extends from the left side of the driver's footwell to the right side; this seems so extreme.

I can get the fingers of my right hand around the fuse, but my hand is too big to allow me to get enough of a grip on it to pull it out; I also think there may be a clip that is part of the fuse tray that secures the flasher relay.

Anyone have any tips or tricks to get this thing out?

The model is a '05 Eddie Buaer Advance Trac 4x4 4.6L.

Thank you,
Tim
Las Vegas

 

[rmwags]

I finally brought it to the dealer to replace the flasher relay. So far it works. I saw where the relay was and determined to let them do it. Cost $100 bucks, but worth it.

 

[airjeff]

So, anyone figure out how to get that fuse block / pannel out? My blinkers sometimes work, but most of the time just turn on and stay on. Both sides do the same thing. Besides removing half the dash I can't see a way to drop the block and get to the relay. Seeing as some people have problems with the MFS and some have problems with the relay I'd like to try the cheap option first....besides, seems like the relay is bad with these symtoms.

I've got the shop manuals, but all I can find is a diagnostic that tells you to "replace relay" but not how.

'04 Explorer EB 4x4 4.6L

 

[airjeff]

Sometimes a little break is all you need to figure something out. After I went back out it was easier. So, here are the steps I did:
- disconnect battery
- remove a couple of screws from lower dash trim, then pull off
- remove odb2 port from bracket
- remove 2 screws from parking brake bracket, lower to floor
- remove all wiring harnesses from fuse panel, the one big one needs to be unscrewed and then give a good tug and it will pop off
- I removed a few extra around there to make it easier to access
- remove two screws from drivers side of lower fuse panel
- remove one screw that is on the passenger side up higher
- now you should be able to push up on the passenger side and pull down on the drivers side and rotate it
- once rotated you can get to the 5 remaining wiring connectors on the top
I only had to remove 4, then it dropped low enough to get the relay out.

There you have it. I don't think it would take a tech over 20min to do it start to finish. I don't know if it fixed my issue because I need to go get a new relay. I'm hoping its a standard one that I don't need to go to the dealer for. Hope that helps anyone else out there. Kinda a pain, but I did it in 0 degree weather outside so it should be better for most.

 

[apenland01]

Outstanding!!

Sometimes a little break is all you need to figure something out. After I went back out it was easier. So, here are the steps I did:
- disconnect battery
- remove a couple of screws from lower dash trim, then pull off
- remove odb2 port from bracket
- remove 2 screws from parking brake bracket, lower to floor
- remove all wiring harnesses from fuse panel, the one big one needs to be unscrewed and then give a good tug and it will pop off
- I removed a few extra around there to make it easier to access
- remove two screws from drivers side of lower fuse panel
- remove one screw that is on the passenger side up higher
- now you should be able to push up on the passenger side and pull down on the drivers side and rotate it
- once rotated you can get to the 5 remaining wiring connectors on the top
I only had to remove 4, then it dropped low enough to get the relay out.

There you have it. I don't think it would take a tech over 20min to do it start to finish. I don't know if it fixed my issue because I need to go get a new relay. I'm hoping its a standard one that I don't need to go to the dealer for. Hope that helps anyone else out there. Kinda a pain, but I did it in 0 degree weather outside so it should be better for most.

This is exactly what I needed!! I searched all over for the flasher fuse and had to look it up in the owners manual. Then to find out it's on TOP of the fuse box was unbelievable.

These are the exact steps to complete the job. It took me about an hour after going back and forth for the right sockets. It's a 7mm socket for the plastic front panel and 3 screws that hold the fuse box in place. It's a 10mm socket for the large, white plug attached to the fuse box and you do have to pull fairly hard on it once you have the bolt all the way loose.

After that I only had to release the first 2 plugs on the top side of the fuse box to get my hand in to easily pull the flasher fuse and put the new one in.

Good luck to all and thanks for the steps!!

 

[acacia1731]

This post just saved me a ton of time as well. Thanks!

I almost tried to replace the Multi Function Switch ($70), but I'm glad I found this first.

After reading other posts, it seems that a key symptom for a broken Flasher is that the turn signal starts to flash, then randomly stops (vs. not working at all). For me, the hazard lights worked fine, but the turn signal would flash 1-10 times, then get stuck either on or off (unpredictable). Sometimes it would even flicker at random speeds, rather than the normal tick, tick, tick...

Also worth mentioning is that the Auto Zone Flasher ($18) sounds a little different from the Ford flasher. Having driven this truck for 5 years now, I think it might take me awhile to get used to this new "ticker".

 

[D Hook]

Thanks for posting your solutions guys. This will help someone else out immensely and save some $.

 

[Jason72]

Sometimes a little break is all you need to figure something out. After I went back out it was easier. So, here are the steps I did:
- disconnect battery
- remove a couple of screws from lower dash trim, then pull off
- remove odb2 port from bracket
- remove 2 screws from parking brake bracket, lower to floor
- remove all wiring harnesses from fuse panel, the one big one needs to be unscrewed and then give a good tug and it will pop off
- I removed a few extra around there to make it easier to access
- remove two screws from drivers side of lower fuse panel
- remove one screw that is on the passenger side up higher
- now you should be able to push up on the passenger side and pull down on the drivers side and rotate it
- once rotated you can get to the 5 remaining wiring connectors on the top
I only had to remove 4, then it dropped low enough to get the relay out.

There you have it. I don't think it would take a tech over 20min to do it start to finish. I don't know if it fixed my issue because I need to go get a new relay. I'm hoping its a standard one that I don't need to go to the dealer for. Hope that helps anyone else out there. Kinda a pain, but I did it in 0 degree weather outside so it should be better for most.

My turn signals went solid yesterday while I was driving, so I stopped at the auto parts store and asked if this car had a flasher (wasn't sure if cars even still had them since I haven't changed one in years). They looked it up and sold me one for $18. It used to be that you just popped the hatch to the fuse panel and plugged these little guys in, but not any more! I couldn't find the flasher, so I looked on here and found the above instructions...perfect!

I did it myself in less than an hour and it solved my problem. Thanks for posting!

 

[Col]

Flasher Explorer 2004

Hello.. because I have the same problem with my turn signal lights, they turn on and stays solid on the left and right sides, also my emergency lights work well, I think it would be the flasher unit, so before take apart all the stuff to get space to cahnge it, I need the nurmer of part or reference number o how can I buy one in order to get it ready to exchange for the older one.

Can you help me?.

Thanks

JorgeA (Col)

 

[Ted22]

I did mine before reading this

$100 would have been worth it! Pita!

One thing to add... Aftermarket flasher is way louder (clickier) than stock... Actually sort of annoying. I might consider a oem one, but no way am I doing that again unless I have to!

 

[diatonic]

These instructions are great, but it can be done pretty easily with just removing the lower dash trim. I just replaced mine in about 5 minutes. See details here.

 

[redz]

My flashers stopped working. Confirmed the flasher relay was bad. replaced and now working again!

 

[steveatthebeach]

LED's or incandescent?

I've had issues with LED's in the past, so it was just a thought.

 

[shucker1]

Special flasher unit required for LED's since they draw so little current.

 

[redz]

LED's or incandescent?
I've had issues with LED's in the past, so it was just a thought.

Thanks for the info.. I still have incandescent in my truck.

Special flasher unit required for LED's since they draw so little current.

Good to know. Thanks for the heads up. Didn't realize LEDs require a different flasher.