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Door Ajar Light Won't Go Off

mrammo

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I have a 1999 explorer.The door ajar light won't go off and the dome lights stay on unless I turn them off manually.Does anybody know where the door sensors are.Any help would be appreciated.Thanks Mike
 



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The sensors are in the door latches.

With engine running, open each door one by one. Each should sound a chime alarm. The one which doesn't is malfunctioning. Could be the rear hatch or glass also.
 






i had same problem with a 97 f150 i had. had to get the door latch replaced at dealer. think it was either 44 or 77 dollars, can't remember.
 






I had this issue about 2 years ago. I sprayed WD40 into gap of the exterior door handle. Jiggle the handle a bit. Alarm turned off. Hasnt come back.
 






:feedback: since we are talking door switch's here,I have aproblem that needs help. It seems that none of my interior lights wants to shut off even after the vehicle is turned off, that includes the heater fan (sometimes) I had to pull all the interior bulbsout to use the vehicle, also the dreaded "check engine" light appears on most of the time, this is a 1997 explorer v8 all wheel drive. Don't get me wrong, I love this truck, it drives fine and has neverl let me down with 160,000 miles on it. Any ideas????
 






I have a 1999 explorer.The door ajar light won't go off and the dome lights stay on unless I turn them off manually.Does anybody know where the door sensors are.Any help would be appreciated.Thanks Mike

I had the problem with my '97. There is a relay with numbers 7078 C1 above the part # mounted in the driver side cargo area, in front of the jack location above the tire hump. Remove the jack panel and you will see them in a separate bracket. Remove 2 screws for the bracket, remove the cover and you'll see the relay. Someone posted a schematic, but I can't find it. Pull the relay. Your ajar light will remain lit on the dashboard but your interior lights will be off. A lot easier than ripping the door apart.
 






all you have to do is spray the crap out of the door hinges and door looks with wd40 or some other spray. it worked for me and every few months i make sure i do it so it wont happen again
 






dont forget the rear glass. even if it locks it may be out of adjustment throwing the door ajar or interior lights.
 






I'm havin the same problem after gettin hit in the back last week my bumper got bent and i replaced it but my door ajar light is staying on and also the interior lights.Gonna try some of the suggestions here.
 






1997 Ford Explorer XLT Door Ajar problem

I sprayed all four doors , the rear tailgate on both sides, and the rear window mechanism. Let it sit over night and the light is now out. The next step was to troubleshoot and narrow it down to which door switch was the culprit, but a combination of PB Blaster and WD-40 did the trick. This was right after Hurricane Irene. I assume with all the rain and humidity that is oxidized one of the contacts on one of the switches was stuck ! Water and automotive electrical systems don't mix well. Had a 66' Chevy Caprice that went through a flood years ago and it took about 4 months for the carpet and door panels to completely dry out before the electrical system acted normal again.
 






2002 Ford Explorer

"DONT READ ANY FURTHER... IT'S A DOOR AJAR SENSOR"

While your car is on... bang on each door one by one. When you bang the door with the bad sensor... the door ajar light and dome light will flicker. It's most likely the rear hatch!!!!! The rear hatch has 2 sensors... 1 for the hatch and 1 for the rear hatch window. EASY FIX: remove rear interior panel. Locate sensors and unplug them. Buy those staples you put into a staple gun that are curved and for stapling television cable to a wall. Insert the staple into the plug holes on the connector. That will close the circuit and result in the door ajar sensor always being off even though you open the rear hatch. Who needs a door ajar sensor anyways. Just make sure you close your door properly. Even though you replace the sensor with a new one... the latch gets bent over time and the sensors will never work the same. You can thank me when you fix yours!!! WHOOOOPIIII!!!!!
 






Have same problem intermittently on my '01 EB. Usually it's because the rear hatch isn't closed tightly.
 






I tried all doors and they were closed. After awhile the dome lights go out, but, driving the door ajar light stays on sometimes. I am going to try and spray them with WD40 and see what happens. I remember driving through a lot of rain yesterday also.
 






I tried all doors and they were closed. After awhile the dome lights go out, but, driving the door ajar light stays on sometimes. I am going to try and spray them with WD40 and see what happens. I remember driving through a lot of rain yesterday also.
If you get desperate, go to the rear hatch, remove the rubber dust cover that houses the wires that go from the cabin to the hatch, locate the white wire with the purple stripe, cut that wire, cover it in electrical tape, close it up, walla, no more door ajar light. this will most likely retire the use of your rear wiper, but who needs that anyways. Priorities first!
 






Has anyone ever had the opposite of this problem? When I open my drivers door theres no dome light, key chime, door ajar light or chime or anything. Its like the truck doesnt know the door is open. Been this way since i have had the truck. Any ideas are greatly appreciated.
 






The switch that tells the truck that the door is open is in the latch mechanism. The switch itself may be bad, or the wire in the boot between the door and body may be broken. Both are pretty common issues. I believe that the switch can be replaced without removing the latch asembly from the door. Good luck.
 






The switch that tells the truck that the door is open is in the latch mechanism. The switch itself may be bad, or the wire in the boot between the door and body may be broken. Both are pretty common issues. I believe that the switch can be replaced without removing the latch asembly from the door. Good luck.

technically, the switch is attached to the latch, and yes it can be replaced separately (thank God, the latch is very expensive). the switch is held to the latch with a single Phillip's screw. figuring out which switch is bad is the fun part, but it's typically the driver's door as it sees the most use.
 






In csnider's case, I think the problem switch has already been identified - since he said that stuff that should happen when he opens the driver's door doesn't happen.

I think I knew the switch was separate - my real question was - Can the switch be removed without first removing the latch from the door? Mainly so you don't have to mess with all of the linkages to the latch from door handles and door locks. Seems like access is pretty tight in there.
 






In csnider's case, I think the problem switch has already been identified - since he said that stuff that should happen when he opens the driver's door doesn't happen.

I think I knew the switch was separate - my real question was - Can the switch be removed without first removing the latch from the door? Mainly so you don't have to mess with all of the linkages to the latch from door handles and door locks. Seems like access is pretty tight in there.

yes. if you remove the lower rear window channel first (1 bolt and pull down) there's plenty of room.
 



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I found this posting this past week and been having this same problem on my 99 Explorer. Used PB Blaster on all the door hinges. Now its showing as closed on all the doors. Thanks for the help.
 






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