Help Identifying broken pieces under valve cover

[frank00]

http://s891.photobucket.com/albums/ac120/Frank00_photo/98 Explorer SOHC/

Check the above link for pics of the problem. 1998 4.0 SOHC started stalling and a BAD rattling noise under valve cover. Pulle the cover off and found these parts rattling around. I really need to know what to do next. A step by step or link to a how to would be GREAT!

Thanks in advance for any help.
Frank

 

[sport97]

I would imagine that to be the timing chain tensioner. These are known to go on the SOHC motor, lucky it didn't trash the motor. They sell the kit to replace them. I believe you can do the front ones with the motor still in, but the rear tensioners, if you replace them, require the motor to be removed. Mine has a slight rattle when it is cold out, i know my tensioners are probably on their way out.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Left upper cassette

The photo below shows all of the SOHC timing chain related components.

A cassette consists of the chain, guides and sprockets. The pieces you found are most likely from the guides of the upper cassette. In order to replace the upper cassette you will have to remove the front crankshaft to jackshaft chain because the lower sprocket of the upper chain is behind the jackshaft sprocket shown below.

I don't know if it is possible to replace the upper cassette guides without removing the front timing cover. I may know in a few days. Currently I'm close to removing the right valve cover to inspect my rear cassette.

 

[frank00]

Upper left cassette

I appreciate the quik reply. In the photo of the replacement kit, the broken parts I have look like a part of the plastic guide on the chain assembly in the middle. Is that the upper left cassette? does anyone know if the jackshaft sprocket can be removed with the engine in the vehicle. can the cassette be changed without removing the front engine cover? alot of questions but I'm really stuck.
Thanks again.
frank

 

[Danson]

when i had myne done the mechanic did the jackshaft while it was still in the vehicle, but he also said he had to drop the oil pan and said it was a real PITA

 

[janolsson]

You will have to remove the front cover to do the cassette.
You will want to anyway to fish out all of the bits that will be floating around and to check the condition of the other guides and chains. You will also have to drop the oil pan to remove the bits that have migrated there and drop the oil pick up filter as this will also have smaller bits will block it.
when you come to do the job it is best to use (some say essential) the tool kit OTC 6488 to lock off the cams. You will be able to purchase the idividual parts you need just to repair whats broken (see sticky for part numbers). But a suggestion would be to do the oo12m kit at the same time. This consists of upper and lower manifold gaskets, a new tensioner and a restrictor valve for the oilway to the tensioner.
A quick search of this forum "death rattle" or "timing chains" should yield a wealth of info on the subject.
Best of luck

 

[2000StreetRod]

That's it

Yes, that is the upper left cassette. I know that the chain cannot be replaced without removing the front timing cover and everything above and in front of it. The timing chain guides are tied together at the bottom with a bushing. A bolt that passes thru the bushing keeps the lower section in place. There is another bolt that passes thru the upper section of the outer guide near the top that keeps it in place. A spring loaded piston presses against the upper end of the inner section of the guide. The photo below of the upper left cassette should help.

I think the larger pieces you found in your valve cover come from the protrushion (that the tensioner contacts) and the end on the lower guide in the photo. The question is if the guide assembly can be replaced by just removing the tensioner, sprocket on the camshaft and the guide assembly lower mounting bolt. Even if it can be done, the camshaft must be kept from moving or the timing will be lost. The camshaft timing tool set costs about $160 and is required to time the camshaft relative to the crankshaft.

 

[frank00]

Excelent

Man you guys are good. I now know the problwm, and about what I face. But 2000StreetRod has got the best question of all. Can the guide assembly be replaced by just removing the tensioner, sprocket on the camshaft and the guide assembly lower mounting bolt? If so do I have to remove the head? My sproket on the cam shaft looks fine. The chain looks good. Can I buy just the plastic guide? Can the guide be replaced without removing the sprocket or chain? (I hope).
Thanks again. Super helpful stuff.
Frank

 

[BobWiersema]

This was posted a while back in another Cam Chain Thread. Located here. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251697&highlight

This is the blog post http://sohcreplace.blogspot.com/ with lots of good pictures Dead Link Removed

Now you have you weekend homework reading assignment. There will be a test on Monday morning.

 

[2000StreetRod]

It's up to you

Frank, it looks like it's up to you to answer the question. I started on the right side instead of the left because if the cassettes on the right are bad I'll have to pull the engine. I keep running into little hurdles that slow me down. Of all of the vehicles I've ever owned, my Sport is the worst for maintenace associated access. I have all but one of the right valve covers bolts loose. With my current tools I just can't get access to the bolt next to the firewall and the blower motor/evaporator housing. In the morning I will go buy some 1/4 inch drive metric sockets, wobble extensions and maybe a universal joint.

I know from past posts that it is not necessary to remove the head to replace the cassette. One member claimed his mechanic replaced the rear cassette while the head was off without pulling the engine or transmission. I can't see how from the photos of the rear of the block that I've seen.

I suggest that even if you don't end up having to pull the timing cover that you pull the lower oil pan and check for plastic pieces from either the cassette or the lower front guide and tensioner.

I've never seen just the plastic pieces of the upper cassettes listed. Many members have purchased the cassette and not used all of the parts. The sprockets are the most durable. The chain is the next most durable.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Must remove timing cover

I finally found a photo that shows the lower bolt of the upper left guide assembly. It is the one in the photo below with the wrench applied.

The photo convinces me that it is impossible to replace the upper left guide assembly without removing the front timing cover.

 

[frank00]

Bought the haynes manual, been reading up on how to do this. Now it's official. I'm way over my head with this project. The vehicle has 180,000 + miles on it. I'ts not worth 3 grand to bring it to ford. Does anyone know a mechanic in NJ that can do this job resonably?
Thanks again guys,
Frank

 

[BobWiersema]

Have you considered picking up a used engine for it.
With that many miles it should have a full overhaul. If your not comfortable doing it yourself, a cost effective option could be a used engine from the local bone yard. If you plan to keep it for a while check e-bay for a rebuilt.
I found this one for $2,400 not cheap but you would have a fresh engine.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/97-9...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

[BobWiersema]

For comparison, I found the bill from when Ford replaced my SOHC .

Ford factory long block and labor $4,850

I got lucky and had it done for free.

 

[lifted93xplorer]

Polish a turd, it's still a turd

Check out Jaspers web site, they have the best reman engines and warranty. I have installed over a dozen in customers vehicles without any issues. 100,000 mile warranty. If you're not into replacing your engine they'll tell you the installers in your area. If it was mine I'd replace the chains, sprockets, guides and tensioners myself, but if you take it to a shop the bill will be astranomical and you'll still have a engine with almost 200,000 miles. So what I'm saying is do your homework and if you can replace the engine for lets say $1,000 more than I think you should go that route because nothing is more frustrating then spending a couple grand just to have the bottom end go in a month or so. Also, the labor may be less to swap motors vs doing the chains and all related parts. I think someone recommended just replacing what's broken and I think that's retarted, especially if all the parts come in the kit. All the parts are the same age and the rest will go next. Also replace sprockets and chain because yes they do wear it's just not as visable as a broken guide. Long story short it's your vehicle and I imagine you want it reliable so the only way to achieve that is to either fix your engine (the right way) or replace your engine for not that much more after the smoke clears if you take it to a shop.

 

[lifted93xplorer]

I just looked at some prices from the dealership and it would cost over $2,000 in just parts...Huh? Thankfully at auto parts stores it's less than $400. Damn, I would trade that motor for a good ole OHV.:... J/K I know they have less power and at least as many issues. stupid factory head castings.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Better procedure

Bought the haynes manual, been reading up on how to do this. Now it's official. I'm way over my head with this project. The vehicle has 180,000 + miles on it. I'ts not worth 3 grand to bring it to ford. Does anyone know a mechanic in NJ that can do this job resonably?
Thanks again guys,
Frank

The Haynes manual provides very little detail. The following thread provides better photos:
Timing Chain Pictures!?!

I decided to pull my engine because I have a leaking rear main seal as well as a bad rear cassette. I've progressed to having the A/C compressor, power steering assy, alternator assy, ect. out of the way. See my thread:
SOHC V6 Timing Chain Saga
I'm confident that you will receive technical assistance from the forum if you decide to proceed on your own. It's really just a long series of small steps but you may not have the time, tools or inclination to attempt it.