is putting a quart of tranny fluid in my oil recommended by you guys to clean it out?

[Explorerdude13]

Hi i am new to this site and i love it. I have a 1994 explorer with 181,000 miles that i just bought off my brother in law. they took decent care of it but not great. instead of changing oil in it they just kept it full. it uses about a quart every 600 to 700 miles. I have used synthetics in every vehicle i have owned for the last 15 years. i will also be putting into this one. what do you guys think about cleaning the engine out with tranny fluid? or any other suggestions would be appreciated. also thinking about a bypass oil filtration system. anyone have one. what kind is best for my explorer? and pics of you installiation would be awesome. thanks soo much

 

[Gadget X]

You are the second person on here tonight that has said something about putting ATF in the oil. Maniak posted on the other post, saying:

I've used ATF right before an oil change since its very high in detergent content. I don't now about driving on it. We always got the motor warm, swapped a quart of oil for ATF then let it idle for 20 minutes then do the oil change.



The ticking is either worn pushrods, rockers or lifters that don't pump up all the way. The rockers and push rods you can do by just pulling off the valve covers. The rocker arm assemblies are held on by 3 bolts per side.



Deltacam sells a full set of rocker arms and push rods (hardened tips) for "around" $200..



Changing lifters is another story. The heads come off to get them on the 4.0 ohv. Also, lifters for the 4.0 are very very expensive compared to what you would see for something like a ford 302 or chevy 350. .



~Mark

and I would have to agree with him. Just use it right before you change the oil, not to drive on!

 

[Potomac30]

I've read about adding Marvel Mystery Oil at 1 quart/oil change. I would be looking for the cause of the oil usage and fix that before switching to synthetic. You're using/adding 5 qts. of oil per 3000 miles; a lot of people add bypass filtration to extend their oil change intervals. I don't think that the oil is staying in your engine long enough to need extra filtration.

 

[huntman58]

I have used ATF for years to free sticky lifters. I do leave it in and drive it tells the next oil change but if what you say is true I would not. In your case I would run it and then let it idle for about 20 to 30 minutes and then change oil and filter. then I would do it again using cheap oil and as long as I am getting oil pressure the second time I would drive it for say about 500 to 1000 miles then do the change to the oil you want. But if they treated the oil as you say the first thing I would do no mater what is add an oil pressure gage and a mechanical one preferred. I would then change the oil but at normal op temp. Yes it can be dang hot if it hits you so be careful but doing it that way you more apt to get more of the gunk out and keep it suspended. No matter what keep an eye on the pressure and an ear out for any strange noises and if any show shut it down and now! The reason being if it has a lot of gunk and varnish in it as it breaks free there is a chance of plugging your pick up tube and starving the motor of oil.
By the way an very old and smart mechanic told me about the ATF trick many years ago like 40 almost and he had been doing if for over 30 years him self then! I know that for a fact as that man was my father who grew up around motors worked on them hitting the beaches in WW II and all his life work on them from big old monster one to little mini bikes for us kids. All I know is ATF works for freeing sticking lifters and when we have gone into the motors we did that to they almost had no varnish or gunk in them.

 

[tuckman]

In the past ATF was a good option for cleaning engines but that was when engine oils were made from group I base oils so some fresh ATF would thin out the sludgy oil. Also the additives were much less inclined to clean the engine like today's oils and extremely advanced additive packs. Any good conventional SM oil changed at 3k to 5k intervals will keep an engine clean and the top tier oils will do an even better job. To clean up an engine or free stuck valves ect... I would go the route of Marvel Mystery Oil, Seafoam or some Auto-Rx in the crankcase. It will work much better than ATF and was designed to do that job. Today's oils have more detergents than ATF nowadays, I say this from looking at virgin oil analysis numbers, not just hearsay.
I would also agree with finding the oil usage before going to synthetics or bypass filtration. If I start seeing increased oil use I check out the PCV valve and hose, then work my way from there.

 

[Allmost 50]

The last company I worked for before retireing had a fleet of 22 trucks. There was a 1998 ex in the fleet. Most of the vehicles were s-10s and f-450 V-10s. The full time mechanic was a retied military mechanic in his 60s. He would add one quart of dexron 3 to each vehicle at every 3k mile oil change. I think he did this without knowing that oil has improved over the years. I never saw one engine problem from adding one Qt tranny fluid.
I personally add 16oz MMO 500 miles and add one 16 oz bottle chevron techron to the gas before changing oil to my vehicles. I do all my maintenance.

 

[Explorerdude13]

Thank you very much for the replies. I really appericate it. and i will let you know how it turns out. i'm thinking it is burning oil because it has not been changed for awhile? i will clean it out. put dino oil in and see what happens? again Thank you all

 

[Bill O'Rights]

I'm thinking it is burning oil because it has not been changed for awhile?

More like as not, it's the other way around. I know a few people that consider an oil burner to be "self-changing".

 

[Elessar65]

if its burning oil its more than likely worn rings, and you are getting some blow-by that is burning in the combustion chamber. It wouldn't hurt (usually) to clean it out good. As long as its running good and not leaving a smokescreen behind it i'd just keep adding oil til it gets bad. no sense in using synthetic though if it uses that much. dino will be fine unless you are towing or off roading a lot.
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[huntman58]

I do agree oils to day are way better then they were back in the late and mid 70's when I started to drive and work on cars but I still have had better luck freeing a stuck lifter with ATF then I have any of the other stuff out there now and I do not run cheap oil but I do run dino oil with a blend of synthetic mix. I have also used ATF to help free a stick set of rings before in a motor that was smoking bad it helped slow the smoking and oil burning tell I had the money to fix it. Some times the old ways over time just get proven that there just as good to day if not better then today’s wonder fixes! All I know is just as oils has improved so has ATF! but just never trust a unknown motor with out idling it first then changing oil if you just get it as the slug in it could stop up a oil pick up and no reason to kill a motor over a half hours time and a few dollars spent cleaning things up .

 

[Tony H]

I have used Kerosene, diesel fuel and Home heating oil to clean a gacked up engine.

They all have a lubricating property and they all will cut grease and goop.

You CAN NOT drive the car with only this in it.

Warm up the 100%. Drain the oil. Fill with one of these three and start the car. Let it idle, No reving, if you want you can bring it up to about 1000 RPM. let it run for 15 minutes then drain. Change filter, change to a cheap oil if you want. Take it on a good run. Get the RPM's up there, then come home ad dump it.

Change filter again then go with the oil of your choosing.

 

[tuckman]

A quart of 5W-20 will clean your motor better than a qt of ATF and is designed to be used in an internal combustion engine. ATF is not an engine cleaner, it is transmission fluid designed to be run in a transmission.
MMO, seafoam and auto-rx all do a good job of cleaning engines, freeing stuck lifters/ring packs and getting rid of sludge. The fluids I have quoted all have a long proven track record of results. For the price of a qt of ATF you could easily buy some MMO and get better results than the "old" ATF trick.
I am not trying to sell any products here but am more trying to show that ATF really does not belong in an engine.
This was a topic of discussion on BITOG about a year ago, here is a quote from a Tribology/Lubricants/Additives guy.
"ATF is 0W20 to 5W20 and thins out the engine oil. Take a thick 10W40 of 'yore,' and add some ATF and the result is a thinner oil that might act as a mild wash.

The Auto tranny sees no combustion gasses, no silicons (unless the dipstick become unseated), so the tranny case is essentially sealed.

The main requirements of an ATF are thermal stability and friction modification (lubrication), with some anti-wear additive for the Sun, lock-up, and Planetary Gears, and of course, the needle/pin bearings. Add about 0.01% of anti-foamants (siloxanes) and some red dye for leak identification, and you have an ATF.

So, using an ATF in an engine is a waste of money and causes the engine's lubricating fluid film to reduce in thickness."

 

[FIND]

A quart of 5W-20 will clean your motor better than a qt of ATF and is designed to be used in an internal combustion engine. ATF is not an engine cleaner, it is transmission fluid designed to be run in a transmission.

honestly, a quart of ANY good oil can clean a motor somewhat. The viscosity isn't really important unless you have seriously blocked passages, in which case you would want to resort to more hard-core methods anyways.

 

[Explorerdude13]

Ok i put a quart of tranny fluid in the oil and drove it about 25 miles. drained the oil and it was NASTY. got a good deal on castrol edge and a bosch filter. put it in and it is running great and not using oil as i can tell i have put 600 miles on it already and it is still full. Thank you guys for your help. now for something else! it had a coolant leak and i changed all the hoses hoping that would correct it. NOT! I could not find the leak to save my life. so i took it to the shop. i figured it was the water pump? Well after 944 dollars a timing chain a water pump a thermostat and a new radiator it purrs like a kitten. i hope thats it for awhile? again thanks for your help

 

[huntman58]

Well glad you got it all fixed and done and that you let us know what you did and how it turned out so thank you also.
And as for that tranny oil as I said been using it for over 30 years my self and the man that showed it to me (my dad) had been doing it for over 30 years before me. He used it for motor cleaning and also cleaning some hydraulic parts that have to be cleaner and more spotless then any thing almost on our motors would have need of.

 

[james t]

A quart of 5W-20 will clean your motor better than a qt of ATF and is designed to be used in an internal combustion engine. ATF is not an engine cleaner, it is transmission fluid designed to be run in a transmission.
MMO, seafoam and auto-rx all do a good job of cleaning engines, freeing stuck lifters/ring packs and getting rid of sludge. The fluids I have quoted all have a long proven track record of results. For the price of a qt of ATF you could easily buy some MMO and get better results than the "old" ATF trick.
I am not trying to sell any products here but am more trying to show that ATF really does not belong in an engine.
This was a topic of discussion on BITOG about a year ago, here is a quote from a Tribology/Lubricants/Additives guy.
"ATF is 0W20 to 5W20 and thins out the engine oil. Take a thick 10W40 of 'yore,' and add some ATF and the result is a thinner oil that might act as a mild wash.

The Auto tranny sees no combustion gasses, no silicons (unless the dipstick become unseated), so the tranny case is essentially sealed.

The main requirements of an ATF are thermal stability and friction modification (lubrication), with some anti-wear additive for the Sun, lock-up, and Planetary Gears, and of course, the needle/pin bearings. Add about 0.01% of anti-foamants (siloxanes) and some red dye for leak identification, and you have an ATF.

So, using an ATF in an engine is a waste of money and causes the engine's lubricating fluid film to reduce in thickness."

I understand the science and reasoning behind not using ATF but ive used it before and it worked great.

It was a high milage 350tbi motor with infrequent oil changes that had pretty much sludged over. I changed the oil in it and drove for a month, then pulled a valve cover and saw bad sludge. I replaced with 1 quart ATF and drove it for 2 days, then changed the oil again. This time when i pulled the valve cover during the oil change it was clean as could be.

I guess what im saying is, why does it work when its not supposed to work? BTW, this was done about 5 years ago and the truck still runs fine and uses virtually no oil.

 

[huntman58]

All they way it works who cares? That it works I care! It has freed sticky lifters and more for my self both in a running motor and when doing major work on motors. I thought it was crazy when I first heard it and I did not believe it but now I know more mechanics that use it then I know that do not. I even shard it with on mechanic that now uses it in his business.

 

[tuckman]

I am pretty sure the same results would have come if a quart of a thin oil like 5w-20 or 0w-20 were put in it, it may actually come out cleaner.

As stated in previous post in the quote, it is because the thin clean oil (atf) is added to a thicker used oil causing it to thin out.
I worked in a heavy crude oil processing plant and the heaviest crude could be cleaned off by light crude. Yes it got the heavy mess off but you still had to use a cleaner like varsol to make the surface really clean.

I am not doubting the fact that the sludge was removed to some point but am stating that there are much better cleaners out there. Ones that will not reduce the protective properties of the engine oil, if used as a long term solution it could cause harm seen as premature wear.

So the ATF may get it clean but other alternatives will get it cleaner, safer. If used properly I have seen MMO and Auto-RX both get rid of varnish on engine parts not just get rid of the big gunk.

 

[FIND]

I am pretty sure the same results would have come if a quart of a thin oil like 5w-20 or 0w-20 were put in it, it may actually come out cleaner.

As stated in previous post in the quote, it is because the thin clean oil (atf) is added to a thicker used oil causing it to thin out.
I worked in a heavy crude oil processing plant and the heaviest crude could be cleaned off by light crude. Yes it got the heavy mess off but you still had to use a cleaner like varsol to make the surface really clean.

I am not doubting the fact that the sludge was removed to some point but am stating that there are much better cleaners out there. Ones that will not reduce the protective properties of the engine oil, if used as a long term solution it could cause harm seen as premature wear.

So the ATF may get it clean but other alternatives will get it cleaner, safer. If used properly I have seen MMO and Auto-RX both get rid of varnish on engine parts not just get rid of the big gunk.

a little 5w20 or 0w20 isnt gonna make much if any difference.

Let's say you 10w30..... at operating temperature, it acts like a 30 weight, dilute that with a quart with 20 weight after you drain out a quart.... you are gonna have what basically is just a little thinner than 30 weight. Any good thin clean fresh quality oil is gonna work, but it has nothing really to do with the weight of the oil. The thin oil just mixes more readily, and the additives are still in suspension, whereas your old oil may have additives that are no longer in suspension, or are worn out.

If there is a lot of sludge in an engine, obviously there arent many things that are going to get it REALLY clean, though, if you wanted, you could throw in a quart or two of diesel fuel or kerosene which would work way better than oil considering how clean it is and how low the viscosity of fuel or kerosene is. Though, engine oil is still better than ATF in most cases. I like a light weight oil formulated for diesel applications to throw in engines that are a little dirty.

 

[Opera House]

Had a Jeep with a closed off ventilation tube and the valve cover had these small coal like particles. Washed it down as good as I could with gas and whatever Pushing it all down the blocked drain back passages. Then an oil change with MMO I got from a garage sale. Did another oil change 500 miles later and cut open the filter. Not a sign of these granules even in the pan oil. Research years ago turned up that MMO has a good amount of stoddard solvent. Looks like you can pour anything into an engine.

I always have used transmission fluid and use that to top off my oil before a change. Stored a vehicle for a year and used 100% ATF in the engine and ran it on occasion. It may not clean much better now with improved oils, but then transmission oils have gotten even better. Still a great free flush.