bad clunk in drivetrain, checked all obvious causes.....help

[wisekise]

Alright, I'm removing the front axle for the time being. I've ran into a snag though, to run 2wd I need axle shaft stubs. I have 2 spares and I have one took apart but can not remove the splined shaft from the stub. I remove the c clip and beat the hell out of it and it hasn't moved out, but it can move in and then back out to the original position. Am I not doing this right or what? I know Jefe and others have run stubs with no shafts and boots, so how the hell did they get that way?? I know probably most were grenaded on the trail, but this can't be the only way. Anybody got a (hopefully easy) solution?

 

[storlied]

Disconnect front driveshaft and go to the junk yard and get some spindles from a 2wd...

 

[wisekise]

the driveshaft is off, i would drive it as is but i dont want to take a chance on doing further damage. as it is now i could get to my office/shop to do work on it if i had to but id rather save those 25 miles for an emergency. but as far as the jy and spindles goes.....$$, i have the spare cv's and the ability to drop the front diff.....that is free. if i can get the cup/stub shaft by itself either by bfh, bandsaw, or torch from work.....i can be driving again this weekend hopefully. then get to gettin' my sas parts list finished

 

[storlied]

True, you're pointed in the right direction then... try your best not to drive without those half shafts.. these bearings love to tear themselves apart.

 

[wisekise]

Okay, this sucks. I took the front pumpkin out, put in the cut off cv stubs and tool it for adrive. Still there! I must be an idiot and thought the noise was coming from the front?? So I guess it has to be either the tranny or the t-case, or I am still an idiot and all this time it just my effin flux capacitor!!! Or maybe I am just low on blinker fluid!!
Rant over...
Moving on, is there any way to tell if it is the tranny or tcase? Tomorrow I will jack the rear up and put it in drive and see if I can locate where it is coming from, but If I can't distinguish the location( which will probably be the case) is there any other way to find out...other than dropping the tcase and finding a 2wd sport driveshaft for process of elimination?
I am hoping its just the tcase($$$) beacuse if the tranny was slipping wouldn't my rpms jump? I knowq nothing about transmissions if you can't tell.

 

[wisekise]

Well, got under theex today and put a hand and an ear on the tcase and trans while my gf gave it gas on jackstands. It seems to be the tcase as it sounds like the chain jumping the gear or something. If I were to put a 2wd sport driveshaft in for temporary use, would that get me going or is there something I am missing?
Thanks for all the responses so far, hopefully I can rebuild the 4405 or go manual soon.

 

[Vargas]

I don't think the 2WD driveshaft will fit. You're talking about removing the t-case, which will leave an open tailhousing on the transmission.

 

[wisekise]

I don't think the 2WD driveshaft will fit. You're talking about removing the t-case, which will leave an open tailhousing on the transmission.

so iguess that wouldnt work huh?? that makes ssense, with all the references to 4wd and 2wd transmissions. that would make the difference between the two would be the mating end of the transmission, whether it be for a tcase or driveshaft. like i said this is my first go around with any tcase or tranny(haha i'd like it to stay that way!)
am i correct with my searching that only a 98-01 tcase will work for me, i have found a few on craigslist but i need to confirm what model they are....or i could just find an atlas!!

 

[wisekise]

so after some more searching, i guess it would behoove me to find a 1354 manual if i plan on doing a sas in the real near future?? what about the 4405 is not good for a sas?
so who's got a 1354 they want to sell?

 

[wisekise]

well i got the tcase replaced this weekend with a 1350 manual. i have a thread in the transfer case section. now i dont know what to do with a pos 4405?
thanks to all the replies and help, ef rules

 

[wisekise]

Ok well scratch that previous post. Today when driving to go get material for my job the effin clank came back! Even with an older transfer case, I don't believe the same noise and feel would come back after a day and a half of driving and still be from the transfer case. I am left with thinking it is the transmission by process of elimination. I have it at a shop to get diagnosed in the morning. I hate taking it to a shop but I don't know anything about transmissions. Still don't know if ill have them do the work to fix it or if ill just find a used transmission and throw it in and ride it out. I guess I will make that call when I find out what they think is wrong with it.

 

[wisekise]

^^^^^WTF.......can u say ban?

anyway...update....the culprit was the tcase after all. the guy at the junkyard warrantied his part and gave me a rebuilt 1354m! thank god is wasnt the transmission.


now, mods ban this guy...hes posting this crap in a few different threads

 

[bcburlette]

On the off chance it comes back again, you might double check all your u-joints, im not sure if you took the DS all they way out, but I had a very similar clank/clunk noise, took off the rear u-joint and instead of nicly greased bearings coming out like this:

mine looked more like this(except black):

to be honest it would hurt to replace your u joints anyway, they only run about 20$ and mine came with a lifetime warranty

 

[jcasey007]

I've had a similar problem

It felt like the gearbox or diff was missing a tooth!.

to diagnose the problem I did the following:

1. changed the rear DIFF/ axle - no change
2. changed the rear prop shaft - no change
3. changed the transfer box - no change

In the end it was a problem on the front UJ on the front prop shaft I only fount this as I wanted to see what my MPG would be like if it was a 2 WD.

The front UJ was dry and as it rotated it bound up.

I was convinced it was a problem with the back end - live and learn

Jim

 

[wisekise]

On the off chance it comes back again, you might double check all your u-joints, im not sure if you took the DS all they way out, but I had a very similar clank/clunk noise, took off the rear u-joint and instead of nicly greased bearings coming out like this:

mine looked more like this(except black):

to be honest it would hurt to replace your u joints anyway, they only run about 20$ and mine came with a lifetime warranty

It felt like the gearbox or diff was missing a tooth!.

to diagnose the problem I did the following:

1. changed the rear DIFF/ axle - no change
2. changed the rear prop shaft - no change
3. changed the transfer box - no change

In the end it was a problem on the front UJ on the front prop shaft I only fount this as I wanted to see what my MPG would be like if it was a 2 WD.

The front UJ was dry and as it rotated it bound up.

I was convinced it was a problem with the back end - live and learn

Jim

thanks for the replies, i did check the ujoints during this clusterf#%k and they looked good. i will be re doing all the driveshafts when i get all my sas parts together and the axles rebuilt/painted.

one thing the transmission shop did, that i did not do, to test the transfer case and tranny was hold the brake pedal down in drive and give it gas. soon after hitting the gas something went to **** in the tcase. it sounded like the gears wasnt even making contact with the chain. just thought id add that as one way to troubleshoot this sort of problem

 

[Flash]

What's an Aussie locker?

 

[Vargas]

What's an Aussie locker?

A brand of locking differential.

http://www.aussielocker.com/

 

[xTOM153x]

something similar is happening to me but its only when i come to a stop i have a 2003 Explorer XLT and whenever i come to a stop i get a clunk that you can really feel and its usually when im coming to a stop using the brakes and it feels like it wants to put the truck foward

 

[AZUSA]

Please Check Your Front Brake Calipers And Retaining Balts

 

[Flash]

A brand of locking differential.

http://www.aussielocker.com/

Thanks Vargas. For a while there I thought maybe the Aussie export Xs had some sort of special diff.