How to use cheap, non-chipped keys in a truck that requires a chipped key. | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

How to use cheap, non-chipped keys in a truck that requires a chipped key.

There is a way to do it without it being in the exact place using a "key box" for a remote starter PATS disabler thingy. They hold a key, and have a wire that loops around the sensor that picks up the RF signal.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Actually, now that I think about it, that wouldn't work. I was thinking for some reason that the key box sent out the signal all the time, which couldn't be the case. It might be as simple as powering the box, but I really have no idea. If it were that easy you could put a valet switch somewhere out of sight.
 






One little correction: just hot gluing or taping the RFID chip inside the steering wheel cover will not work. As a matter of fact, even just getting it close is not good enough. The chip HAS to be inside the receiving ring, and not just inside, but in an exact location. I tried to start my truck with a dummy key, while having a PATS key inside the ring, and only in a very specific spot would it work. That's why I had to use 2 zip ties. One for the X, and one for the Y axis, if you will.

Thanks. I know some people would really never need a 3rd or even a 4th key but it's just extra insurance just in case you do lose your duplicate.

As to hot gluing - that's kind strange since I had the "capsule" taped right outside steering wheel cover when I programmed it. I held it just outside the plastic cylinder receiver. For me it worked as long as its located somewhere around that piece of plastic - but yeah, you never know... some vehicles may be different and sensitivity may be different as well.
 












Hey Cherry Fellow CC-ite here!!! Thanks for the tip about that ridiculously expensive key work around. I just did the same thing to my '03 S/T after being quoted $130 and $150 at different Stealerships!! I just bought it and it only came with the one chipped key.
 






Hey man. Glad to hear that someone else was able to do this same hack. I agree that paying a hundred and some dollars for a key is highway robbery. Ridiculous.

Were you able to just remove the PATS ring from around the ignition, just like I did? Not too familiar with S/T's, but I would assume that if they use chipped keys, then the setup would be pretty similar.
 






Yep and I also pulled the next little plastic doo-hickey behind the PATS out. It is what makes the stupid dinging alarm noise actuate under the dash when you have the Key in the ignition but don't have the truck running. (I hate noises I can't turn off and stuff that can disable my truck for no good reason)
 






Yep and I also pulled the next little plastic doo-hickey behind the PATS out. It is what makes the stupid dinging alarm noise actuate under the dash when you have the Key in the ignition but don't have the truck running. (I hate noises I can't turn off and stuff that can disable my truck for no good reason)

Ha! That's funny. I pulled that out of mine as well. I hate those stupid chimes too. :chug:
 






Wrong, this can not be true

Just tried doing what this gentleman says in his post and it will not work. Fact and proven minutes ago. I have tried what he said, then moved the chipped key all around to see where in fact where exactly it would work, the only way it will work is if the chipped key is rested in or on the the replacement non-chipped key that is inside of the circle that surrounds the tumbler. this is fact and true, if the chip does not or is not in this 2 inch circle then fact - it will not start your vehicle. There is no room around the ring to insert the chipped key . the only possible way would be to remove the actual chip which could be a $100 mistake if it got broken in the process, so.....just tape or rest the chipped key on the non-chipped key to start the vehicle , then put it in a safe place, Take it from me someone who has been there and done that. and has the facts strait.
Hi guys. This is my second post on this forum. Thought I'd share this with you. Hopefully it can save some of you some money just like it saved me.

I bought my 2000 Ranger with only one chipped key. After locking it in the truck three times, and subsequently figuring out three different ways to break into my truck, I decided it was time to have copies made. I went to a local hardware store, and they wanted $125 to make me a copy. My jaw hit the floor when they told me that. So I started looking around. Seemed my local Ford stealership could do it for about $90. Still way too expensive for me, so I talked to the guys at the parts counter. It seems that there's a ring around the ignition that reads your chipped key when you put it in the ignition. If it reads the right code, then it allows your truck to start. If the chip is not there, or it's the wrong one, no dice.

Armed with this info, I went to Home Depot and had them cut me a key for a buck-fifty. Then, in their parking lot, I took my dash apart. I pulled out the ignition and then unscrewed the ring that reads the key. It's attached to a wire that runs back into the dash. I zip-tied my chipped key into it, and dropped it back inside the dash. Now my truck is constantly reading the signal from my chipped key. Once I put everything back together, I inserted the non-chipped key, and started my truck with it. Now I can make copies of my key that WILL START MY TRUCK for less than two bucks. Granted, I don't have the 'security' that using a chipped key provides, but that's ok, I keep my doors locked.

Sorry, I didn't have the presence of mind to take pics while I was doing this. I wasn't even sure it would work until I was finished. It's super easy to do, and only takes about twenty mins, including putting everything back together.

I went back to that Ford dealership, and you should have seen the looks on the faces of the mechanics there when I told them I started and drove my truck to their dealership with the non-chipped key in my hand.

So that's it. This is a nice little hack that will save you tons of money when it comes to having new keys made for your truck. Enjoy!:salute:
 






Before you flame me like that, you might want to check yourself. It's obvious to me that you missed a step. :rolleyes:

"I pulled out the ignition and then unscrewed the ring that reads the key. It's attached to a wire that runs back into the dash. I zip-tied my chipped key into it, and dropped it back inside the dash. Now my truck is constantly reading the signal from my chipped key."

See that? You have to UNSCREW THE SCREW HOLDING THE PATS RING ONTO THE IGNITION AND THEN ZIP-TIE YOUR KEY INTO IT. Try that sweetie, and then come back and tell us how it worked. ;)
 






lol way too funny :D
 






It will work with the remote start bypass module. I changed my Mounty to a push button start system and used the bypass module to activate the pats. The bypass module gets a ground pulse from the remote start and holds it there until you put your key in the ignition and disable the remote start. I installed a hidden switch that grounded the input to the module, so it wouldn't start unless I threw the switch.
 






Replacing PAT key

I have a little input pertaining to the use of your original PAT key to circumvent the system. I lost one of my original keys "again" which prompted me to find this site. I have a l998 Explorer and I am currently living in Mexico. After checking with the local ford dealer in Guadalajara, I was informed that I had to bring the vehicle in to the dealership (a 100 mile round trip) and the cost would be $1500 pesos which is about $125USD. Since this did not sit well, I decided to try some of the suggestions given in this thread. And contrary to some opinions, I found that, at least on my l998 , it is indeed possible to start the engine by gluing to top portion of the key with the PAT to the outside of my steering column, just under the slot for the ignition key, thereby eliminating the need to tear apart anything. Total time required, 5 minutes. Thank you all for your input, saved me mucho dinero. I do have another question though. It seems to me that if it is necessary to have two keys in order to program a third key, that the PAT code must be different in both keys or you would be able to use only one key to program. Also if you could find keys at the local wrecking yard like one post said, how would you use it to program since you would be unable to turn the key in the ignition? Are we talking about buying a blank , cutting for your ignition switch, then switching the PAT part?
 






I have a little input pertaining to the use of your original PAT key to circumvent the system. I lost one of my original keys "again" which prompted me to find this site. I have a l998 Explorer and I am currently living in Mexico. After checking with the local ford dealer in Guadalajara, I was informed that I had to bring the vehicle in to the dealership (a 100 mile round trip) and the cost would be $1500 pesos which is about $125USD. Since this did not sit well, I decided to try some of the suggestions given in this thread. And contrary to some opinions, I found that, at least on my l998 , it is indeed possible to start the engine by gluing to top portion of the key with the PAT to the outside of my steering column, just under the slot for the ignition key, thereby eliminating the need to tear apart anything. Total time required, 5 minutes. Thank you all for your input, saved me mucho dinero. I do have another question though. It seems to me that if it is necessary to have two keys in order to program a third key, that the PAT code must be different in both keys or you would be able to use only one key to program. Also if you could find keys at the local wrecking yard like one post said, how would you use it to program since you would be unable to turn the key in the ignition? Are we talking about buying a blank , cutting for your ignition switch, then switching the PAT part?
Llevala a un cerrajero con computadora...

Lo de conseguir una llave en el yunke no funciona para esta version de pats, es para las llaves que tienen una capsula.
 






Great Fix!

This fix works perfectly, yes you have to position the key as if it would be, if it were still around ignition cylinder, I used a small block of wood, about 3/8" thick to space key to center of ring, secured by tie rap, and wraped the thing with electrical tape, to insure that key does't shift. Works like a champ!! Saved me loads, not only do I have extra keys, but now I'm able to install a remote start kit, with out the need of a bypass box(more savings). My 01 sport was a salvage purchase, mild hit left rear, otherwize like new, with 20,065 miles, purchased for 3Gs, and thanks to LKQ parts was able to repair for 500 bucks. I love a bargain!!! Can I get an A-men?
 






Relocated the ring under dash, heated up cut side of key a little and it comes out of plastic and then zip tie head of key in the center of ring.:thumbsup:
 












I had a second key so making a "duplicate" was fairly easy.

That said, I have my PATS system active in my 99 sport and I even went as far as making a couple extra PATS keys from other Ford keys. Simply go to a junkyard and look for keys --- over where I am, you can readily find vehicles for dismantling with the keys in the cylinder, or you can purchase a key and fob from the counter for about $5-10

It doesn't matter if the key comes from a Taurus, Windstar, Explorer, etc as long as the PATS is the same vintage.
Wish I'd known this before I went to the dealer and had three more keys made! There is the additional concern though of having a key which is not compatible with the tumblers in the ignition as Lee Borden has also brought up.

The cost here was about $75 for the initial programming and $20 per key blank, so $135 for three keys.

It seems to me that if it is necessary to have two keys in order to program a third key, that the PAT code must be different in both keys or you would be able to use only one key to program. Also if you could find keys at the local wrecking yard like one post said, how would you use it to program since you would be unable to turn the key in the ignition? Are we talking about buying a blank , cutting for your ignition switch, then switching the PAT part?
The PAT code would have to be the same, but with additional identification code as well.
 






Back
Top