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Do i need lower gears?

rhauf

Explorer Addict
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Year, Model & Trim Level
91,93,98,&02 Exploders
Took my '91 explorer out wheelin' this weekend. its got the 4.0 with a4ld/bw1354 combo (like all first gens). axle ratios are stock, and (i think) 3.55 gearing. it's lifted 4" and has 33's on it.

anyway, it did really awesome the whole weekend, except on a few very steep hill climbs, where it would just bog down the engine and come to a stop. i was in first gear/low range of course. the altitide was about 4,000 ft so that may have some impact... so do i need lower gears or is there something wrong with the engine? it sounds like its running great. but i dont know.

who else has 33's and whats your gear ratio/tire size and experience with similar situations?
 



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Yes. 4.56. You're gonna cook the A4LD. 33's and 3.55's = SUCK. Even 4.10's would be helpful, but you would probably be happiest with 4.56. Lot's of guys say, "I wheel with "insert tire/crap gear combo here" and its just fine" but that's cause they haven't wheeled with proper gearing. Makes a huge difference.

*EDIT - That may not be why your truck came to a stop... but you should save you're pennies for a re-gear either way. You'll NEVER regret it.
 






I agree that 4.56's are what you need. But it depends on the trucks tranny and t-case too. For all around driving and some weekend wheeling with an over drive tranny then 4.56's work great with 33's. Not only will it help off road it will help on the street also.
 






yep im saving 2 re-gear, im going 4.56, and i will b turnung 31s.
 






Well then a re-gear it is. i've also decided the engine needs a good tune up (new fuel filter, etc) It's more-or-less a dedicated off-road truck (although it's street legal) so i'll really only be driving it to go offroading, or if i feel like driving something "cool" but i have a nice stock explorer for my daily driving so mileage/high rpm is not a concern.

any recommendations on gears lower than 4.56? (i'm thinking maybe 4.88 since that seems to be the lowest i can get for the dana 35) I've never re-geared an 8.8 or dana 35 before, so i'm not sure on the details, will i need to replace the carrier too? are there slide pin issues with the 8.8 after some ratio (did i hear 4.10 was the limit once?) basically i'd go for the lowest gears possible, without adding a ton of extra expense to the swap (new carriers etc).

i sure don't want to cook the a4ld, i just changed it!! haha.. i'm going to be adding a nice huge trans cooler to it too though.. (it has a smallish one now, which is leaking so it needs to be replaced anyhow)
 






I run 4.88's with my 35's and it rolls down the highway really nice. You can get away with 4.88's for 33's and maybe even 5.13's if it's a trail rig. You know you're going to want bigger rubber eventually, so why not go as deep as you can.

5.13's are the lowest you can run in the D35/8.8. I have heard rumors of pinion strength issues but know a few guys that run them and have had no problems. If you want deep gearing, that's the way to go.

Here are some 5.13's for the D35 - http://www.justdifferentials.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22_32_352&products_id=2869
 






How about a doubler? I run 4.11's and a c-5 with no overdrive and doubler in my BII. Just turn the OD off. If you have 3.55's multiply that by 2.48 the doubler will give you and you'd need 8.804 gears to match crawl ratio. And the taller the gears the smaller the pinion gear and the more likely it is to break. Just an idea.
 






My next plan is a doubler. I would still re-gear so you're not useless in 4hi. Then you've got some power for sand and such.
Gears, then a doubler... You'll be happier is the end.
 






REGEAR!--- Nuff Said! I'm happy with my 4:56's and 33 BFG MTs-- but went ahead and installed a doubler-- but haven't wheeled with it yet-- Happy Happy Happy!
 






REGEAR!--- Nuff Said! I'm happy with my 4:56's and 33 BFG MTs-- but went ahead and installed a doubler-- but haven't wheeled with it yet-- Happy Happy Happy!

whats a doubler?
 












5 mph in 2nd gear crawl over anything type of low range.
 






whats a doubler?

A doubler is the front part of a RBV t-case or the low range part of the box cut down and used in front of the regular t-case. It must be manual shift to shift it and can be a a 1350 or 1354 t-case to start off. It gives you a second 2.48 reduction. Or another low range.

There were 3 different ones made and sold. Only one is still being sold new. That would be the D&D Machine kit. You get a new shaft and plate for the back. You must provide and cut down a manual shift t-case. Some welding is needed. The D&D doubler uses splash oiling. It is pretty short but not the shortest. The shortest was the Stubler. It shares oiling with the main t-case. You take the front part of your t-case off and replace it with the parts provided and use the parts you take off on the low range box provided. No need to provide any additional parts other than a correct shifter. These are no longer made and would need to be bought used. The third was the T&M. Pics of it are about 10 down on this page: http://www.mappyjack.com/Jrpic.htm It is the longest and the only one that uses it's own pump for oiling. Again no longer made and would need to be purchased used. There were a number of home made doubler boxes made and a write up on how you could do it over on the Ranger Station. But there were a lot of shaft failures.

Your looking at about the same ball park price wise as a gear change. Maybe a bit less. And you get a an addition set of lower gears. 4 high range, 4 low range and another 4 low low range.
 






but went ahead and installed a doubler-- but haven't wheeled with it yet-- Happy Happy Happy!

Yah, ya drove "Green" with the doubler in it an been hankerin fer a doubler ever since.
 












I ran 4.56's in my last explorer with 32's and it was great. I have 4.10's in the ex I have now and it doesn't accelerate nearly as fast as I want it to and I don't know how it does offroad yet. I will find out soon.
 






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