axle seals are leaking-looking for advice

[BillyBob82]

Just as the title says, my rear axle seals are leaking after running some trails this weekend. I was down a quart by the end of the weekend (maybe more). My issue is this: The seals are new, they were done when the 9" was swapped in over a year ago and have always leaked a little, but not as much as they did this weekend. I always assumed it was the pinion angle and that the leak would stop on it's own. Now I'm thinking the lip on the axle may be worn unevenly and even if I re-seal them, they'll still leak without bringing the axle to a machine shop. I'm looking for thoughts on what my move should be. Should I do the work and re seal them knowing there's a very good chance they'll still leak, or do I take the lazy man approach and just keep feeding it oil as needed?

 

[tweakedlogic]

In my opinion, seals are cheap and it won't take that long to replace them and clean up the surface really well. If they still leak, then you can take it to a shop.

 

[Maniak]

Don't forget to check your vent. If the vent hose is plugged you will build up pressure in the diff and it has to go somewhere.. usually out the seal if the vent isn't working.

~Mark

 

[BillyBob82]

im really trying to avoid taking it to the shop and i had that thing spotless when i sealed them the first time which is kinda why i think they're warped or at least worn unevenly.

the vent is something i didn't think to check though, and that could absolutely be the problem. the vent hose is nasty, i should probably grab a new one anyway

 

[KPSquared]

Make sure that vent hose is letting the diff breathe. Then get it up HIGH. Like in the cab, so you don't suck water into your diff.

If the seal surface is worn at all, it can chew through seals quick. Also if a shaft is tweaked at all, the vibration can cause a seal to fail.

 

[BillyBob82]

Make sure that vent hose is letting the diff breathe. Then get it up HIGH. Like in the cab, so you don't suck water into your diff.

If the seal surface is worn at all, it can chew through seals quick. Also if a shaft is tweaked at all, the vibration can cause a seal to fail.

how do you have your vent hose mounted? any pics?
i'm fairly sure the surface is worn funny, which is why i don't want to do the seals again-ugh. plus the seals are basically new anyway so i highly doubt thats the problem...
the shaft is money, brand new and store bought not hacked so i would rule that out. but the tires need to be balanced or at least beaded. it shakes like a ******* on the highway

 

[Maniak]

I have our rear diff vent hose running up to the frame, then along the frame towards the front of the vehicle and it then T's in with the vent hose from the front diff. From there I run it up into the engine compartment and have one of those cheap k&n looking valve cover vents on the end.

~Mark

 

[BillyBob82]

I have our rear diff vent hose running up to the frame, then along the frame towards the front of the vehicle and it then T's in with the vent hose from the front diff. From there I run it up into the engine compartment and have one of those cheap k&n looking valve cover vents on the end.

~Mark

that works. you just have it zip tied to the frame?

 

[Maniak]

Most places it is just behind the fuel lines, brake lines etc. It is zip tied in a few places, but not many. I used the same method for the vent on the auto trans and transfer case too. At one time I had all 4 together but I had an over filled rear end and it was spitting fluid into the lines and I was afraid it was going to mix fluids (technical term for gear oil in an auto trans is "BAD").

~Mark

 

[KPSquared]

My 8.8 had a bent shaft, which caused the truck to shake like crazy... It was unbearable. I replaced the shaft and no more shake...

Hoses run up, forward, then teed, then high in the engine bay. I would really like to get some accordion style that don't let any water in ever but still allow for expansion.

 

[BillyBob82]

i'm going through the brakes soon anyway. passenger side rear has been locking up on me recently so i'll run the vent line while i'm down there. i probably should run vent lines for the tranny while i'm working on it. already called in a favor with a buddy of mine to rebuild it last year and i know it's close to boiling the fluid climbing hills. I need a tranny cooler anyway, just been lazy as hell to do the work haha

both drive shafts i have in it now were cut and balanced straight from the shop and i'll tell you what, these things are rugged. if i remember correctly, i think a spent a little extra to have them double sleeved so they're pretty beefy. plus i haven't had any massive trail carnage (ye) that would have caused them to bend. of course all of that doesn't really mean anything and the rear shaft could be out of balance somehow. i figure i'll check off the easiest (read: cheaper) solution first and get the tires beaded. if it's still convulsing on the highway after that, then i'll pop the shaft and bring it back to the shop.