lower rear ball joints for 2002 4wd exploer

[ediller3]

I had a service shop tell me that my rear cross axial ball joints (lower?) were loose. I also need new struts for the rear since one of the struts is shot. With a 4 wheel alignment the quote was $700. I am looking to do it myself and am looking for any information that will help with this task. I have read a great step by step procedure in the forum for 95 to 01 explorers on how to replace the lower ball joint on the front axial. My question is does anyone know if the procedure would be the same for lower ball joints on the rear axial of a 2002 4wd explorer? If anyone has more information I would appreciate it. I can't seem to find any postings dealing with replacing the rear lower ball joints in this forum.

I'm a new poster so I appologize if this isn't permitted but here is a link to the posting of how to replace the lower ball joints on the front axial in the 95 to 01 forum... it is really a great write-up.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188225

 

[coled43]

That price could be a little high. The struts and alignment should cost at least $350. The rear ball joints cost $50 each. You might be able to find someone to do it for more like $500 - $600. You would pay around $300 for parts and then at least $50 for alignment.
I just looked under mine to figure out where the rear ball joints were. They are just the connection of the link from the rear knuckle to the chasis, if I'm right. I couldn't see right away how to get them out, but it is probably not that complicated. It might be difficult to break them free though. Mine looked rusty. I don't think this is that common of a problem. What kind of problems are you having? Maybe just replacing the struts would be good enough. Have you checked the ball joints out to confirm they are bad?
If both ball joints really are bad, I would try to find a better price. Maybe a shop that doesn't do alignment and then take it elsewhere for an alignment. If you really want to do it yourself, check out a manual.

 

[ediller3]

I changed the rear struts and inspected what I am guessing to be the cross axial ball joint. Nothing seemed to be loose. I took it to the Ford dealership and had them inspect the ball joints. They even showed me how to check them since I wasn't quite sure I was doing it right since I couldn't find anything wrong. The Ford mechanic looked at me strangly when I told him that I was told that the rear cross axial ball joints were loose. He confirmed everything was ok. I am offically a non-customer of the original place.

 

[coled43]

Good job with doing your homework. I thought it sounded pretty fishy. How many of these places just try to screw people all day long. I think people need to do a little research to understand what work they need and how much it should be or at least go to a couple of different shops to compare. You can usually tell if you do. I'm afraid way too many people without time just grin and bear it and pay the extra few hundred.

 

[Hitchhikingmike]

Our 3 gen explorers do not have rear lower ball joints... we have rear upper ball joints but not rear lower ball joints.

 

[barking04]

In the rear, Gen 3's have a toe link ball joint, an upper control arm ball joint, and a lower control arm rubber bushing. If a toe link ball joint is too loose, then there will be vehicle shudder at higher speeds as the rear tire cannot find its alignment. If a upper control arm ball joint is too loose, then there will be clunking as you drive over rough roads at low speed. Hope this helps.

 

[CBLAMBERT]

Rear Ball Joint

Yes they do indeed have a "Ball Joint" however not a conventional one....looks like a bushing attaching the knuckle to the lower control arm right? will its a special spherical bushing listed as a ball joint. Available from Car Quest for about 60 & napa as well. online prices range from 50 to 90 busck each...doesnt look like much but if loose they will not allow the toe link to maintain toe alignment. check by jacking up rear tire, & checking for lateral movement in or out. if movement is detectable check for loose bearing hub by forcing tire in & out in all directions & rough rotation. If there is all directional movement then wheel bearing needs pressed into knuckle with HEAVY DUTY shop press (machine shop will save alot of thime here!) the bearings are about 200 + each!!! (just rep[laced mine about 6 months ago & actully improves control & feul milage) these must be in good shape or wheel eill fall off going down the road! not cool- John @ napa in hanover, pa told that horror story...mine has toe in/out slop now & I'm replacing the "bushing/ball joints tomorrow...looks to be easy but it wont be! I know theyll be a bugger getting out & plan o heat control arm end & freeze the bushing to create more clearance & use a big c clamp w/ steel plates to seat- of a BFH if all fails! I'll post a follow up when done. Good luck!

 

[CBLAMBERT]

Just did em last night

follow up:
This was actually suprisingly easy...you'll need a good hot flame, I used a aceteleyne turbo torch. First I used some bent 3/16 spring steel rods we use for hanging calipers up on brake jobs, then found a deep socket that fit the outer race (1 1/16) presoaked the "bushing" (thats what it actually is) beat the heck out of it w/o any movement (was tracking progress with dial caliper) after which I heated to steam out the oil then quenched with Liquid wrench (whatch for fire!) beat the heck out of it again, then repeated 2 more times. Then the tone changed, with each strike it moved about an eighth of an inch for about 6 whacks then it really got goin. Out it popped. I cleaned up the hole with a wheel cylinder hone, cleaned up everything with brake cleaner & used the same (craftsman- incase it cracks) socket to seat the new ones. There is no "stop" just eye ball it compared to the other side. No biggie as long as the knuckle slips over it. Bolt it all together torqued bolt to 80 then to 100 ft lbs with blue loctite on clean threads. that was it! Drives more stable & shows how the squishy front suspension really is now! Good luck.

 

[SuspensionGeek]

Here is a picture of the rear lower ball joint.

http://www.suspensiongeek.com/product-indv.php?part=ik80010

Runs $40

 

[davidhale22]

ball joint

Hi, do you know if a ball joint, (not the bushing that you posted) can be bought for the rear suspension control arm? thanks, David

 

[CBLAMBERT]

rear ball joint in irs explorers

Yes dave thats what was posted....the rear a arm has a bushing (tear it apartv youll see) that is sold as a ball joint. Its spherical construction allows a small amount of movement as its designed not to completeley bindc up as there is a toe link that as it moves through. Its arc the toe will toe out when suspension goes into compression. The pic above is the ball joint....just constructed as a bushing. Napa and carquest as well as rock auto.com shoulget ya fixed up. Good luck. Remember lube flame and a big hammer.

 

[davidhale22]

Hi again, It is actually a joint on the upper rear suspension control arm that I want to buy if possible. I know about the spherical joint that they call a ball joint. I want to buy the 5/8 dia. rods that are adjustable on the inner wheel ends too. Thanks, David

 

[CBLAMBERT]

generally youd replace the whole arm...about 130 from rock auto...toe links generally dont wear that fast but should be avail with a web search...

 

[davidhale22]

Rear upper control arm 2002 Explorer

Thank you CB for your post. If someone has had experience with finding the ball joint for this please let me know. Maybe it is not replaceable. Again, I am not refering to the spherical axial joints that go into this control arm, but to the vertical ball joint.

 

[amking]

Thanks you!

I jsut finished replacing this bushing (while doing rear wheel bearings).

Heat and a 1-1/16 impact socket are the key. I used a lot of penetrating oil, heat and a ball joint press.

Use the 1-1/16 socket with the ball joint press to press the bushing out from the front. You won't be able to use a cup on the outlet end at first. Just press the bushing until it is even with the rear opening. Then add just a small cup to catch the bushing as you keep pushing it out.

To install I used the 1-1/16 socket and the ball joint press, along with a lot of antiseize!

Thanks again to all that contribute to this forum. You guys are saving me money!

 

[tuffnut63]

I have been told that I need to replace the lower rear ball joint on my 02 explorer. However, after reading many of the posts on the subject, I find that I may have been mislead. I have already done the wheel hub bearing on that side, and had it pressed in by Napa, etc. and had it double check for foot pounds, so I know the torc was correct. The problem is that the rear end still waddles like a duck. I am at a loss, any ideas?