No Spark- where to start?

[gmcward]

2000 Explorer 4.0SOHV 192K mi ( I've had since 27K) and never a major engine problem . Have only had to replace two thermostats in all that time other than routine maintenance. I love this car as it has been extremely good to me.
BUT...now I have a problem. Was at a ballgame, came out to parking lot to go home and car turns over but won't start. I check fuel pump cutoff thing under passenger dash to see if tripped. It is not.
Had car towed to mechanic ( reputable) . He keeps car for 2 days, but cannot replicate the problem as every time they go out to the car it fires right up.
OK fine, I think maybe it's just a one time deal problem. I drive car back to my office and leave it there until I can get a ride back to pick it up ( had to take my 2nd car home first). I get a ride back to office to pick up car the next day and it won't start again? WTF?? Ok so I get a ride back home again. Next day I drive 2nd car back in again and , for kicks, hop in the explorer and try to start it. Bam, it fires right up?WTF.
Ok so this time I drive it straight home in hopes that, once there, I can find and fix the problem.
Fine I get it home. A day later I go to start it and it won't start. (THis is really pissing me off now). It has been sitting ever since and won't start at all .
Today I check a few things.
1 fuel pump primes when key turned on ( everytime)
2. check for spark coming off coil pack and , low and behold, no spark off any wires.
3. Checked voltage going to coil pack when ignition is turned on and voltage is 12.1v.
4. Now, I checked out my chiltons manual and numerous threads on here, but I can't figure out what to check next.

5. Oh yeah, I did basic eyeball check of PATS system with blinking dash light and all appears fine ( i.e. dash "THEFT" light goes out when I try to start car)

Can anyone help me out? I don't know much about ECM's and distrubutorless ignitions ect ( I can tune the hell out of cars with carburetors and distributors though!)
HELP!

Thanks
G

 

[gmcward]

Also Check engine light is not "on". However it comes on when iginition is turned on then goes out after a few seconds. I assume this is as normal and that no trouble codes have been set. I do not have a OBD scanner to check however.

 

[budwich]

As you indicate, there are lots of posts especially with the SOHC. In your case, you should likely look at plugs connecting the CPS sensor as in "crank position sensor" ( not cam position sensor... I probably got the abbrev. wrong) ... both in terms of pulling / cleaning the sensor and just checking the connector. Of course the main "catastrophic event" with the SOHC is the timing "components" which you can check a bit with a compression check JUST IN CASE they decided to head south... :-(

 

[2000StreetRod]

Engine No Start Procedure

Engine No Start Procedure

Sometimes the crankshaft position sensor is bad and the CEL does not illuminated when cranking the starter. It is located low in the engine compartment and exposed to the elements. Disconnecting and reconnecting the electrical connector will clean the contacts a little. Some members "tap" the cranshaft position sensor and it starts working.

 

[gmcward]

As you indicate, there are lots of posts especially with the SOHC. In your case, you should likely look at plugs connecting the CPS sensor as in "crank position sensor" ( not cam position sensor... I probably got the abbrev. wrong) ... both in terms of pulling / cleaning the sensor and just checking the connector. Of course the main "catastrophic event" with the SOHC is the timing "components" which you can check a bit with a compression check JUST IN CASE they decided to head south... :-(

I went out and pulled the Crank position sensor plug off ( which by the way you need about 3 extra joints in your wrist/ fingers to do) and it looked perfectly clean and dry. The crank damper is clean and dry , but a bit rusty looking. So I just plugged it back in ( which by the way is harder than getting it off due to that little tiny wire clip and the needed extra joints in the fingers/wrist) . I get in turn the key and it fires right up. Damn car hadn't started in 3 weeks and pulling that plug off and putting it back on does the trick.
Thanks brother!!! now I'm wondering if I shouldn't just replace the sensor so as not to have the problem again. After all it has 192K on it and it's all original. What do you think?

Thanks Again-You Rock!

BTW I checked and the correct abbreviation is CKP for that sensor.

 

[Froilan]

got a 2000 explorer same problem i change the ckp still no spark it new coil new spark plug new starter and fuel filter

 

[2000StreetRod]

Have you actually checked to see if there is spark to one of the spark plugs? Does the "Theft" indicator flash rapidly when cranking the starter? Have you tried the other ignition key?

 

[Froilan]

yes i did check for spark and i only have 1 key and the thief light is blinking every 3sec

 

[Froilan]

and also i check it with obd 2 and it says computer ok

 

[Froilan]

e check engine comes out with code p0 174 172 171 misfire on 1, 2, & 3. so what i did was change hoses and gasket for the intake manifold after that the check engine came out again but now the misfire is 1, 2, 3, 4, & 5 then it would not start

 

[Froilan]

after that fuse 19 blew that the pcm diode

 

[2000StreetRod]

P0171 System too Lean (Bank 1)
P0172 System too Rich (Bank 1)
P0174 System too Lean (Bank 2)

It's unusual for the PCM to report a bank too rich and too lean. Do you have the OHV V6 or the SOHC V6?

Regarding Fuse 19 I suggest that you unplug the PCM power relay, C165 connector to the ignition coil and C166 to the radio noise capacitor. Then replace Fuse 19, turn on the ignition and see if the fuse blows again. If it does then the PCM power diode or the wiring to it or the ignition coil or the noise suppression capacitor may be shorted to ground. If the fuse doesn't blow then turn off the ignition, install the PCM power relay, turn on the ignition and see if the fuse blows. If the fuse blows then there is probably a short to ground in the PCM power relay and replace it. If the fuse doesn't blow then turn off the ignition, connect the ignition coil connector, switch on the ignition and see if the fuse blows. If the fuse doesn't blow, then there is probably a short in the radio noise suppression capacitor. The only issue with running the engine with the noise suppression capacitor disconnected is ignition noise on the radio.

 

[Froilan]

I got a sohc v6 2wd i will try that then inform you of the result

 

[410Fortune]

misfire on 5 of 6 cylinders??????
Something very wrong
Is this a SOHC?
It may have jumped time......

 

[Froilan]

what d you mean it may have jumped time
regarding the fuse it blew anymore and i left the radio capacitor disconected

 

[Froilan]

is the car still worth repairing or already a garbage?

 

[Froilan]

i think the 6 cylinder is not included 1,2,3,4,5 that misfire.

 

[2000StreetRod]

regarding the fuse it blew anymore and i left the radio capacitor disconnected

Your response is confusing. Did you mean the fuse did not blow after installing the PCM power relay and connecting the ignition coil connector? If so, did you attempt to start the engine? And if so, did it run?

 

[koda2000]

@Froilan - Which engine does your 2000 Explorer have?

Never mind, I see you said it was the SOHC V6...

The SOHC engines have been known to "jump time", This means the cam chain(s) jump a tooth and then the engine's valve and pistons are no longer "in time" with is usually means your engine is toast. That doesn't cause blown fuses though. A short to ground will cause a blown fuse.

 

[Froilan]

Your response is confusing. Did you mean the fuse did not blow after installing the PCM power relay and connecting the ignition coil connector? If so, did you attempt to start the engine? And if so, did it run?

I try the procedure and the fuse did not blew in any and it still no start