The only thing that happened after I had done it, precisely according to the pictures, was that the driver´s window stopped working. Wicked car is that mine...
i have run a interupter swith up to my center console (pretty slick setup if i can toot my own horn) but what happens is in the t-case the clutch plates slip all of the time in 2wd(worse if spinning tires) and it spripped all of the friction material off of my clutch plates to engage the front driveshaft.
First, please note that because of the design of our transfer case, our systems are NOT designed to allow unlimited wheel spin. Allowing excessive wheel spin (e.g. roasting tires for a city block or running Control-Trac/BWM-equipped vehicles on a 2 wheel drive dynomometer) forces the transfer case clutch to slip. Excessive slipping causes a tremendous amount of shearing of the transmission fluid used in our transfer cases. This can result in burning of the clutches as well as the transfer case lubricating oil and is NOT recommended. Our systems are not designed to allow tire-roasting slippage of the transfer case clutch, and doing-so can result in major mechanical damage of the system which can require replacement of costly internal components of the transfer case. Again, make this modification at your own risk
the broken off pieces float around in the drum until they get lodged between some plates and lock the front driveshaft to power. now its in full time 4wd, turning sucks, tires skip on turns, hell on halfshafts. i had to drop the case and clean out the friction material which is a pain to do. i ended up getting a new case because it actually broke the shift fork for 4wd low. now i just pull the front driveshaft for 2wd. the tcase engages the output still but it can just spin free so no damage what so ever to the case. its an easy out for the shaft six 8mm bolts into the cup on the t case and 4 torx bolts into the front dif, not bad at all and much safer
The plates do not slip all the time in 2wd any more than they would in 4auto. They will only slip when there is a difference between the front and rear driveshaft speeds, which only occurs during turns (which would happen in 4auto as well) or when doing burn-outs, which, you'll note, I addressed at the beginning of the write-up.
I even used bold AND italics for emphasis. I'm not sure if I could have been any more clear...
Furthermore, I fail to see how any damage to the friction material or the clutch plates (or the ball-ramp assembly) could cause the shift fork to fail... I'm not seeing the correlation on that one...