Xeek's '91

my white 1991 explorer xlt 4wd. bought it 3/19/2010. first vehicle ive ever owned.


3.19.2010 - starting out

need to fix these

things ive done:

5.1.2010
new rearview

new cupholder

5.4.2010
new fogs

5.7.2010
new grill

5.8.2010
painted headlightdoors black

the starter also went out on me. truck is down for now



5.10.2010
out starter out. thanks jd

new starter

installed

5.13.2010
painted grille black

5.14.2010
brush guard/bull bar, also removed the valance. makes it look higher without it

5.17.2010
best addition ever, explorerforum plate frames and a sticker

5.18.2010

6.4.2010
clear turns/corners and amber bulbs

6.17.2010
replaced drivers door handle

6.22.2010
replaced engine coolant temperature sensor (cel)
replaced temperature sending unit so my guage works now (need it in this heat)



6.24.2010
new KKM intake

8.19.2010
train horns and flowmaster 50 suv kit(sounds a little to low but i still like it)

exhaust

train horns

^left compresser - right air valve

sound clip. does no justice, much better in person
http://s141.photobucket.com/albums/r44/xeeky/?action=view&current=DSCN1434.mp4



10.11.2010
cherrybomb glasspack 18"

11.07.2010
loud rattle i was hearing? heat sheild on top of the 2nd cat came off and wedged itself from falling.

also took the glasspack off, no muffler. pipe stops right before it would be at
http://s141.photobucket.com/albums/r44/xeeky/?action=view&current=nomuffler.mp4



11.14.2010
gave myself an oil change. mobil 1 synthetic, k&n filter



11.22.2010-11.23.2010
ive always had a bogging/no get up and go on a cold start. so i went ahead and tried this: http://ford40.com/sputtering.shtml

left it to soak all night, dried today. there was some dirt/dust on the filaments. put it back in today along with a new maf from a cobra.
not only was there no more bogging when cold, i didnt have the slow response/bog related to having my battery unplugged and it relearning itself either.

i reccomend doing this if you have probs and notice the maf filaments are dirty.

the new maf sensor:

and the painted area behine the grille:

i will be painting the grille, bull bar, front bumper, rear bumper all with bedliner.
and at some point paint along the sides of the truck following the top of the bumper line in bed liner



11.24.2010-11.28.2010
bed lined front bumper, rear bumper+rear sides, grill, and re-added wal-mart lights.
took off the hitch that was attached the the bumper also.

12.20.2010

01.22.11 - clearance lights. LED, 13 per light, 65 total. very bright.

3.27.2011
so after 3 months of the engine overhaul, its finally back in, finished, and fired up at 11.47pm! after fixing the inertia switch(oddly popped out), it fired right up, no problems!
link to build thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302553

video of its first start up




4.20.2011
2nd aux tranny cooler

pcv filter.

5.30.2011
'99 8.8, aussie, 3.73, soa

9.4.11
non ac box conversion

9.22.11
4" rough county lift and swap to 3.73 gears

10.1.11
f150 tow hook

10.9.11
15x8 creager soft 8s put on my 32x11.5 bfgs

10.16.11
class V tow hitch

12.31.11
drivers window motor damage. so nice to have a working window

1.7.12
f150 seats to bring it to 5.5" lift
project #1 completed.

4" + f150 seats + fa400 arm + unsettled suspension = this angle.

1.7.12

1.14.12

 

[Vargas]

so my 4x4 doesnt work. never did since i got it. i tested the module, it checked out ok. the buttons are ok. but when pressed the shift module doesnt do anything, so it cant be the case motor since it doesnt make it past the module.
so itd have to be the wiring from buttons to module right?
so will this method work to tell me if it works or not by by-passing it?:
diagram:

at the shift module connector: splice a line into C5 GY wire, attach to a switch i have, ground the other end.
result in expecting: flip switch, shift motor engages, both dash 4x4 lights stay off since im spliced before it, 4x4 engages

That won't do it. You want to momentarily connect C1 to C2. That will cause the module to initiate a shift. At the very least, you should get some clicking from the module.

 

[Xeek]

my method wont engage 4x4 but would prove the module works by making it click like its about to engage 4x4?
to actualy shift to 4x4 splice into c1 and c2 and place a push button inbetween that splice?

edit: if i do get it to engage, how can i test the actual 4x4 on dry pavement with all 4 tires on the ground?
stock open 3.55 axle, stock auo-hubs up front

 

[Vargas]

C5 is the 4x4 indicator lamp output. Connecting a switch to C5 and grounding will not test anything.

Also, that diagram might not be for a 91-94, since it shows an electric clutch for the transfer case, which did not show up until they put ControlTrac in the '95-97.

You should not attempt to test 4x4 system on dry pavement. It can pretty much destroy the weakest part of the driveline (in your case, the automatic hubs). If the transfer case motor successfully shifts, the indicator lamps should say so. If you suspect bad wiring to the switches on the dash, use a test lamp to check the state of C5 at the module. One thing you can do with the truck parked, is attempt to turn the front driveshaft with your hands. If you can't turn it, then you know the transfer case has engaged the front half of the system. If you can turn it, then it has not, but realize that by turning the front shaft you are causing the auto hubs to lock.

 

[Xeek]

someone posted that for a 91-94 so i dunno on that.
how would i get the hubs unlocked after? cause thats the only way to safely test it for me.
i did some reading and saw if i turn on 4x4 and turn full lock left or right and let it idle in a circle. and if i hear binding/hopping/chirping im in 4x4 then stop before i damage anything.

 

[Vargas]

The auto hubs unlock by putting the T-case in 2WD, then driving the opposite direction. For example, if you back into your driveway in 4WD and then switch to 2WD, the hubs will unlock when you drive forward. If you were driving forward prior to switching to 2WD, you have to reverse to unlock them. A good working auto hub will unlock in about 10 feet. A hub that is not moving freely (either due to lack of use or lack of maintenance) may not lock/unlock properly, quickly, or at all. Partially engaged hub will make snapping or clicking noise.

Plenty of information on these threads about how to clean and lube the auto hubs. If they are shot, replace them with manuals if you want to wheel. The auto hubs really are a weak link in the system.

 

[Xeek]

well it snowed so theres no way im going in the slush to spin the driveshaft. im just gonna try the wiring. DB and W/LB is dark blue and white/light blue right?

just to clarify the wiring:

possible to use a rocker, flip on and off real fast? i dont have a spare button

 

[Vargas]

Yes to all of that.

 

[Xeek]

the wire jump didnt work. soooo.......



i got this:

it took 3 days to get there accross the country via usps! thats insane(its usps)
ordered thursday, shipped friday, came in today. from CA to VA

eliminates the buttons, wires, module, more wires, motor. some of you use pliers, this is a pair of permanent pliers made easy.
now to pickup some manual hubs
theres Warn 29071 $200 and Warn 32720 (prremium) $58. why is the 'premium' version so much less? and i swore i read somewhere to get a jeep hub(diff model # anyway) which would be better?


ill bring all the tools needed to work and if i have time install it there. its to dark and cold when im home

 

[Vargas]

The WARN 29071 is the hubs. The WARN 32720 is the spindle nut kit. You'll need both. Nut kit does not have to come from WARN (they are standard Dana/Spicer parts). Should be able to get the whole bundle for a little under $200 if you shop around.

 

[Xeek]

got it in today at work. and it works, i still want manual hubs tho

 

[Vargas]

With the manual T-case knob installed, do the indicator lights on the dash still do their job?

 

[Xeek]

no the electric motor has the wires that send all that info. and the motor is sitting in my garage CAKED in dirt/grime/oil.

here i was thinking everything on the bottom of the truck was painted black. until my hands turned black and the parts turned silver lol



edit: nvm on that. looking back theres still wires attached to the case itself. and in my joy of 4x4 i didnt look at the dash either. ill have to get back on that.
now i need to find a use for the pushbutton spot. im thinking of a lcd for a rearview cam. dunno yet

 

[Xeek]

well now my transmission died partly. great christmas present.

it was fine then all the sudden hitting the gas didnt do anything, just reved.
the overdrive is gone, it sits there and revs. if i put it in regular drive it still runs fine. park, reverse work fine. didnt try 1 or 2. ive just lost the overdrive selection.

 

[Foxracin]

m5od.

 

[Xeek]

yea. problem is i like steering with my right hand. my left hand i cant even steer, my hand goes retarded. i was planning on taking lessons from a friend soon. its starting to look like i have to learn now, not just for fun.

 

[Xeek]

anyone know what to search for/where to buy the metal line on the bottom of the radiator going to what i believe is the trans rad?
red fluid came out so i assume its trans cooling, no idea why it goes through 2 different radiators tho.
picture of mangled up pipe

 

[rhauf]

yes those are trans lines.. they go through a heat exchanger in the radiator (cools it some, also helps the trans warm up in cold weather) and if your lucky and have a tow package, there is a secondary dedicated trans cooler mounted in front of the radiator.

anyway, what i would do would be, go to any hardware store and get a 5/16" hose barb with the same threads on it as that adaptor you have pulled out there.. put the hose barb in the radiator, then cut off the trans cooling hose a foot or so back and use a piece of 5/16" rubber transmission cooling line (auto parts store will have this) and put one end on the hose barb with a hose clamp, and the other end slide it a few inches over the cut-off trans cooling line and put 4 or 5 hose clamps on it (so it wont slide off since there is no barb) yes, its redneck, but it works great, this is how i fix trans lines.

you may need 3/8" hose and 3/8" hose barb depending on the size of the trans line. my guess is 5/16 though.

if you really want to do it "right" you can get that steel tubing from the auto parts store in various lengths and sizes, and get a little tubing bender and make up a whole new line.. pain in the ass though.

 

[red.EDDIE.4x4]

Self pick salvage.
Best place in the world to find odd-ended stuff like that.
The self picks here have tons of first gens.

 

[Xeek]

i must have the tow package then. theres a smaller rad in front of the ac rad that has that line attached to it.
where the hell is my tow wires for the rear then? ive never seen anything back there. unless they removed it from the previous owner when they got hit in the back

regardless of being a pain the the ass, i dont have a line properly shaped to make a new one from. and im afraid pick-n-pull the same thingll happen trying to take that one off.
i was hoping i could buy one new

 

[willindsay]

Just went through the same thing. Fimding a barbed fitting was my first thought but I couldn't fine one locally that fit. I just went to the local pick and pull and with a pipe cutter and cut one off about 6in from the fitting and then undid it so the chance of kinking was minimal.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=301235 Thread I started on the issue. Has how I fixed it and a few other suggestions from others.