02 mounty wheel bearing... new rotors too?

[fusseli]

I just ordered in a new Motorcraft front wheel hub kit for my 3rd gen, been meaning to get to it for a while.

I know that my front brake rotors are worn past minimum machining thickness, I had themchecked in the summer. My question is, what extra measures (if any) would I need to take to put on new brake rotors while everything is off to do the wheel bearing? My thought was that since it's all going to be taken apart on the one side, that I could just swap in a fresh rotor when I put it back together. The side that isn't getting a new hub would just be done seperately.

Is this a sensible idea and are there any extra measures I'd need to take as far as the brakes are concerned?

 

[imp]

I just ordered in a new Motorcraft front wheel hub kit for my 3rd gen, been meaning to get to it for a while.

I know that my front brake rotors are worn past minimum machining thickness, I had themchecked in the summer. My question is, what extra measures (if any) would I need to take to put on new brake rotors while everything is off to do the wheel bearing? My thought was that since it's all going to be taken apart on the one side, that I could just swap in a fresh rotor when I put it back together. The side that isn't getting a new hub would just be done seperately.

Is this a sensible idea and are there any extra measures I'd need to take as far as the brakes are concerned?

If I replace a rotor, unless the opposite side is perfect, I like to replace 'em both. imp

 

[alexb2000]

The rotor takes about 10 min to replace. I would do both sides as well.

 

[matt0248]

To do the front wheel bearing the caliper and rotor have to be removed. So this would be the perfect time for new pads and rotors, it would be just a matter of putting the new parts in, instead of the old parts.

Are you only doing one wheel bearing? If so then you would spend extra time in doing the brakes on the other side, but your hands will already be dirty and the tools will be out.

 

[fusseli]

To do the front wheel bearing the caliper and rotor have to be removed. So this would be the perfect time for new pads and rotors, it would be just a matter of putting the new parts in, instead of the old parts.

Are you only doing one wheel bearing? If so then you would spend extra time in doing the brakes on the other side, but your hands will already be dirty and the tools will be out.

that's exactly what the plan is! yes only doing one bearing, but the pair of rotors.

my real question was if there is any additional adjustment necessary to the braking system in general, or if it's as simple as slapping in fresh rotors. from the sounds of it, it's as simple as slapping them in. i plan to run the existing pads down until they're gone though, since they have plenty of life left.

picked up a set of discs yesterday, plain replacement ones at $45/ea.

 

[miker104]

well, I'm lazy so I would put new pads on since I'm there anyway and this would let me not have to worry about it for a while. Pads are $20-$85 depending on what you get. I'm not there to see the pads so easier for me to say change them. If the pads are wavy they may impart that into the new rotor, so when the pads wear out you may have to spring for new rotors again. It's your call.

 

[matt0248]

well, I'm lazy so I would put new pads on since I'm there anyway and this would let me not have to worry about it for a while. Pads are $20-$85 depending on what you get. I'm not there to see the pads so easier for me to say change them. If the pads are wavy they may impart that into the new rotor, so when the pads wear out you may have to spring for new rotors again. It's your call.

I agree with this^. Pads are not too expensive and you'll save time in the long run.

 

[fusseli]

Ya, that's a good point. I'll pick up some pads and do them at the same time. Any suggestions on what kind or brand? There's probably 100 choices on Rockauto, lol. Semi-metallic heavy duty pads are ~$55 a set, and EBC Green-stuff pads are $85... Leaning towards the cheaper of the two.

Now considering a second wheel hub, and just do both front everything at the same time...

 

[jrford]

1-EBC Green-stuff pads are $85
2-Now considering a second wheel hub

1- I'm running a set, very good pads, very minor dust, no fade, stop great!
Prior I did cheap pads, lot of fade, wound up replacing them for poor stopping in 10k miles. Went to EBC world of a difference. On the other had, replaced the heeps fronts with cheapo stuff, works great, so go figure.


2-save your money, did both hubs, might as do a pair i thought like you. After removal only the left side had a rough spot, right side was in mint condition. . .

 

[fusseli]

Ya now that I think about it I may save the $160 for now and not do the other hub yet. When it does decide to go I'll be good and ready for it. May do front diff oil instead, that for sure needs changed and will be less $$ now than doing both hubs.

Undecided on going Green Stuff, now also considering Motorcraft Superduty pads @ $55 w/ free shipping from Amazon.

That makes:
1 hub
1 set of rotors
1 set of pads

Gonna be a productive day when I get to it, probably next week sometime.

 

[fusseli]

Got the rest of the parts in today, just waiting on a set of offset box ends from Harbor Freight and I'm good to go.

Decided to go with the "blue stuff" pads

 

[fusseli]

Spent today doing the hub and brakes. The hub wasn't too bad, but the axle being seized on to the bearing made it kind of a PITA. The grind in left turns is now gone, so it was definately the correct hub. More on my hub replacement here.

This was the first time I've done brakes myself and I must say, it was shockingly easy. Not much to look at, but here's the new rotor and pads installed. The old pads were definately cheapo stuff-- no chamfers, slot, nada. And they were pretty dusty. After my first test drive with the Motorcraft Superduty pads I can tell a big difference even though they aren't broken in. They are grabby and I like it! Brake pedal is nice and firmed up also.

can still see a little of the Ford blue on the pads... haha.

 

[rhs7]

All, I am in the process of changing my front wheel bearings on my 2002. I got the PITA 15mm bolts out with a small amount of heat. And I got the axle pressed out without issue. My problem is that the hub assembly is seized to the spindle. I have a heavy duty slide hammer/hub puller combo, but I cannot get it to break loose. I have a .020" gap of separation started and I have been spraying PB Blaster inside from the front and back sides of the bearing, but no luck. Any ideas?

 

[matt0248]

All, I am in the process of changing my front wheel bearings on my 2002. I got the PITA 15mm bolts out with a small amount of heat. And I got the axle pressed out without issue. My problem is that the hub assembly is seized to the spindle. I have a heavy duty slide hammer/hub puller combo, but I cannot get it to break loose. I have a .020" gap of separation started and I have been spraying PB Blaster inside from the front and back sides of the bearing, but no luck. Any ideas?

A couple things to try. Try to use a chisel between the hub and the knuckle. You can also try to use the hammer and chisel to try to spin the hub inside the knuckle to break it free.

 

[rhs7]

Thanks matt0248, one follow up question: Is there any danger in damaging the surface of the aluminum spindle? I have never had one apart, but the two pieces apear to have a sealant or RTV at the seam. This made me think that the spindle had a prestine bearing or gasket surface that I must not damage. Am I on the right track with this logic?

 

[fusseli]

Thanks matt0248, one follow up question: Is there any danger in damaging the surface of the aluminum spindle? I have never had one apart, but the two pieces apear to have a sealant or RTV at the seam. This made me think that the spindle had a prestine bearing or gasket surface that I must not damage. Am I on the right track with this logic?

I ended up knicking the mounting surface a bit when I changed mine but I'm not losing sleep over it. Probably a good idea to keep it in as good of shape as possible, though. I carefully used a big screwdriver and rubber mallet to get the hub seperated.

 

[EasyRhino]

I agree with this^. Pads are not too expensive and you'll save time in the long run.

 

[D Hook]

picked up a set of discs yesterday, plain replacement ones at $45/ea.

Did you end up getting OEM or aftermarket? Curious because I plan on doing the same thing in February; rotors, pads and wheel bearings all at the same time.

 

[fusseli]

Did you end up getting OEM or aftermarket? Curious because I plan on doing the same thing in February; rotors, pads and wheel bearings all at the same time.

I got a pair of OE replacement rotors from O'Reilly @ $45/ea.

I'm glad I upgraded to a nicer set of pads though, pretty sure they are to thank for the noticeable improvement in braking. The PO definately had cheap stuff on there, solid dark gray pad material with no slot or chamfer. Nice pads are a lot cheaper than nice rotors!

 

[waskly]

Got the rest of the parts in today, just waiting on a set of offset box ends from Harbor Freight and I'm good to go.

Decided to go with the "blue stuff" pads

the blue pads squeek.....

they are really ment more for commecial usage then passenger cars.