02 mounty wheel bearing... new rotors too?

[fusseli]

the blue pads squeek.....

they are really ment more for commecial usage then passenger cars.

Mine don't.

 

[waskly]

Mine don't.

oh they will, just saying.... they are great pads just noisy....

 

[fusseli]

time will tell then?

would you recommend any better pads before getting into $80+ EBC stuff?

 

[waskly]

regular motorcraft work great and are silent, the blue or heavy duty pads are great for longevity but are noisy as hell once they break in, and have a miles on them.

what are looking for in terms of better? normal motorcraft pads i seen between 12-20k miles on depends on driving habits tho.

 

[fusseli]

besides life, like as in dust, stopping power, noise, etc? I searched a while back and didn't find much, that's why I decided to go ahead and try the superdutys.

 

[waskly]

besides life, like as in dust, stopping power, noise, etc? I searched a while back and didn't find much, that's why I decided to go ahead and try the superdutys.

i only use 3 type of brakes but i work in a dealership.

the motorcraft vs ford boxed brakes work really well, never had a cust complain over them.

only drawback i see and i think its a characteristic of the truck rear rotors get abused regardless of pads. from aftermarkets i have seen to oem. regular motorcraft imo act as oem pads, no noise, not too much dust, and just have a nice pedal feel.

the super duty pads from just experience are too hard on the rotors, and are loud when broken in over time. longevity of them is the selling point.

i cant speak for other pads, members of this forum can since i cant actually put aftermarket into vehicles less its something the customer supplied.

 

[rhs7]

Well gang, I had to give up! At least for the time being. I cannot get the front bearing assembly separated from the aluminum housing. I bolted the entire thing back together and am driving it for the time being. Below is a list of the things I tried:

1.) Big slide hammer on lug bolts (yes axle unsecured).
2.) Hammer and chisel in between the steel and aluminum housing.
3.) Rotating the bearing hub assembly inside the aluminum housing with a hammer and air chisel.
4.) Leaving it soak with PB blaster for several days.
5.) Combination of “gentle” heat and slide hammer.

The only thing that I can think of to do next is to unbolt the entire aluminum housing and press it out from the back side. Unfortunately, I think this means replacing the top and bottom ball joints as well. I have read that these ball joints are a PITA.

Any more ideas?

 

[matt0248]

You should be able to just disconnect the upper and lower ball joints from the steering knuckle, and thus remove the knuckle from the truck.

 

[alexb2000]

With the 15mm bolts loose, how about hitting the bolt heads from the back side with a mini-sledge and maybe a punch? Turn the steering wheel to make the access easier.

 

[rhs7]

Alex, you are the man! I took your advice, disconnected the tie rod end to get a better angle, and beat on the 15 mm bolts with a sledge and punch. It worked! The trick is to leave your slide hammer attached to hold the axle all the way in to provide clearance for the punch.

New bearing resolved the grinding issue. I have pics of the bearing removed from the housing that I will post shortly. Once again, this forum saved me time and money!

 

[alexb2000]

Good deal. I find a mini-sledge or big ball-peen is often the "right" tool for suspension work and one of the cheapest.

 

[waskly]

that little bead of silicone they use is a pita to break free....

 

[fusseli]

regular motorcraft work great and are silent, the blue or heavy duty pads are great for longevity but are noisy as hell once they break in, and have a miles on them.

what are looking for in terms of better? normal motorcraft pads i seen between 12-20k miles on depends on driving habits tho.

I have about 25k on the front Motorcraft Superduty (Blue) pads, and about 15k on the rears (also blue Superduty), and no squeaks to speak of. The pads are great, they aren't even that dusty and neither set needs replaced yet.

 

[D Hook]

Good news. Thanks for the follow up.