Stumped by a Transfer Case Engagement Problem- Please Help.

[jacob123]

Thanks Joe. My feeling is that the dash switch works fine, and I know the actuaotr motor works fine. But when I turn the switch...I hear three clicks (at the dash switch) and the 4 high and 4 low lights flash just as everyone above describes, and the manual describes they should when the system needs service. So... it seems to me either the disc shaped switch connected to the end of the actuator motor cylinder is malfunctioning. Or the processor board that "listens" to this switch is failing. Richard F. Describes in the long section above, the location of this processor board in Explorers. I'm wondering if anyone has ever dealt with it on a Ranger. Richard writes,

"I was having some trouble with my 1991 Ford Explorer transfer case and talked with a service tech up hear in Alaska about it. He told me about a test you can perform to the processor board that is located in the rear left access panel next to the jack and rear windshield washer container. In has 2- wire harness pin connectors attached to it on the left side. If you remove the 2- wire harness pin connectors and turn on your ignition switch. Now you can push the white square button on the bottom edge of the processor board and it will turn on a red LED right next to the button. If the red light flashes this means you have a problem with your actuator motor assembly. If the red light stays bright this means you have a problem with the processor board."

Has anone ever run this test on a Ranger, which of course does not have a, "rear left access panel next to the jack and rear windshield washer container"? I assume the board would be under the dash somewhere. I don't want to start tearing out upholstery to follow wires from thre actuator motor. Please help.

 

[jacob123]

I've been out of the loop for a awhile, but I still need to fix my four wheel drive. Yes Joe, the motor works when connected directly to the battery, and yes I've checke the fuses. Here's a play by play of what I've done:

I've followed all of the above advice in this thread. I took the motor off, dissasembled, cleaned it, and connected it to the battery while off the truck. It seems to work fine. My Ranger is a 98, but it only has 68 K miles--mostly California and mostly city miles--so the actuator motor was considerably cleaner than those pictured in the above thread. I also powered it directly from the battery while it was installed on the transfer case and it seemed to shift the between 2 high and 4 low easily. All this leads me to believe I have and electrical problem between the dash witch and the switch on the actuator motor (the disc that recieves the wire harness). This points me to what Richard F wrote earlier in the thread about a processor board and a diagnostic procedure. But his "serious explorations" are on an Explorer and I can't find this processor board on my Ranger. Has anyone ever been down this road with a Ranger? Here's what Richard F wrote:

"I was having some trouble with my 1991 Ford Explorer transfer case and talked with a service tech up hear in Alaska about it. He told me about a test you can perform to the processor board that is located in the rear left access panel next to the jack and rear windshield washer container. In has 2- wire harness pin connectors attached to it on the left side. If you remove the 2- wire harness pin connectors and turn on your ignition switch. Now you can push the white square button on the bottom edge of the processor board and it will turn on a red LED right next to the button. If the red light flashes this means you have a problem with your actuator motor assembly. If the red light stays bright this means you have a problem with the processor board."

Additionally I did the ohmeter tests reccomended at the beginning of the thread. In both the 2wd and 4low positions there was one discrepancy, where it showed continuity and ,according to the following info, it shouldn't have. Does this point me towards the switch on the actuator motor? The Processor board? The switch at the dash? Here's the ohmeter tests from above:

"In 2WD position, pin 10 (yel/wht, circuit 762) should show continuity with pin 6 (violet, circuit 771) and continuity with pin 8 (brn/wht, circuit 764), and should show no continuity with pin 7 (white, circuit 770) and no continuity with pin 9 (org/wht, circuit 763)

In the 4WD/Low position, pin 10 (yel/wht, circuit 762) should show continuity with pin 6 (violet, circuit 771) and continuity with pin 7 (white, circuit 770), and show no continuity with pin 8 (brn/wht, circuit 764), and no continuity with pin 9 (org/wht, circuit 763)"

Finally, when I do try to use the dash switch it performs as the manual says a system that needs service should. There's a click from the dash. Then the 2high and 2low lights flash 6 or seven times every 5 or 10 minutes for probably, twelve hours of driving time. Since there's a click, and the lights are reacting to the dash dial switch, does this mean it's the processor that's confused? The switch on the actuator motor? Please help!!

 

[jacob123]

I've been out of the loop for a awhile, but I still need to fix my four wheel drive. Thanks Joe, but yes I've checked the fuses, and yes I'm sure the motor works. Here's a play by play of everything I've done. Maybe someone can help...

I've followed all of the above advice in this thread. I took the motor off, dissasembled, cleaned it, and connected it to the battery while off the truck. It seems to work fine. My Ranger is a 98, but it only has 68 K miles--mostly California and mostly city miles--so the actuator motor was considerably cleaner than those pictured in the above thread. I also powered it directly from the battery while it was installed on the transfer case and it seemed to shift the between 2 high and 4 low easily. All this leads me to believe I have and electrical problem between the dash witch and the switch on the actuator motor (the disc that recieves the wire harness). This points me to what Richard F wrote earlier in the thread about a processor board and a diagnostic procedure. But his "serious explorations" are on an Explorer and I can't find this processor board on my Ranger. Has anyone ever been down this road with a Ranger? Here's what Richard F wrote:

"I was having some trouble with my 1991 Ford Explorer transfer case and talked with a service tech up hear in Alaska about it. He told me about a test you can perform to the processor board that is located in the rear left access panel next to the jack and rear windshield washer container. In has 2- wire harness pin connectors attached to it on the left side. If you remove the 2- wire harness pin connectors and turn on your ignition switch. Now you can push the white square button on the bottom edge of the processor board and it will turn on a red LED right next to the button. If the red light flashes this means you have a problem with your actuator motor assembly. If the red light stays bright this means you have a problem with the processor board."

Additionally I did the ohmeter tests reccomended at the beginning of the thread. In both the 2wd and 4low positions there was one discrepancy, where it showed continuity and ,according to the following info, it shouldn't have. Does this point me towards the switch on the actuator motor? The Processor board? The switch at the dash? Here's the ohmeter tests from above:

"In 2WD position, pin 10 (yel/wht, circuit 762) should show continuity with pin 6 (violet, circuit 771) and continuity with pin 8 (brn/wht, circuit 764), and should show no continuity with pin 7 (white, circuit 770) and no continuity with pin 9 (org/wht, circuit 763)

In the 4WD/Low position, pin 10 (yel/wht, circuit 762) should show continuity with pin 6 (violet, circuit 771) and continuity with pin 7 (white, circuit 770), and show no continuity with pin 8 (brn/wht, circuit 764), and no continuity with pin 9 (org/wht, circuit 763)"

Finally, when I do try to use the dash switch it performs as the manual says a system that needs service should. There's a click from the dash. Then the 2high and 2low lights flash 6 or seven times every 5 or 10 minutes for probably, twelve hours of driving time. Since there's a click, and the lights are reacting to the dash dial switch, does this mean it's the processor that's confused? The switch on the actuator motor? Please help!!

 

[pauley]

i have the same problem i heard from a local 4x4 shop that the switch is 99% of the problem i wish i would have known that this thing was repairable before spending $90 on the motor oh well though i guess ill just clean this one when i get it all dirty again

 

[davidfritzen]

acuator motor

One thing to add,do not over torque the end cap to the acuator motor.It can be to tight to work.In an emergency you can use a wrench to remove the bolt that holds the front bracket on the end cap.take a wrench or pliers to back off the nuts on the and cap.Might have to smack it once, but it worked for me.

 

[rayford2]

After market shift motor.

Interestingly enough, the 13-54 electronic shift case in a '98 works very similarly to the system in the Explorers, and the schematics are remarkably similar.



Now, if the motor moves when connected directly to the battery, we can rule that out. Without being able to read the GEM PID inputs and outputs, it's pretty tough to troubleshoot it beyond the basics. You can check the fuse under the hood (#3, 20A) and the resistances at the 4wd switch (3300 ohms, 1100 ohms, or 360 ohms), but beyond that, it's pretty tough to see where the problem is without a more complet explanation of what it's doing and without being able to see what the system is seeing/doing.

-Joe

I changed my shift motor 3 years ago with a 79.00 after-market assembly from RockAuto.com. Now hear this...make sure you get or print out the wiring supplement that goes with the after-market. It isn't enclosed in the box with the motor, but Rock Auto makes note of it and allows you to print this out. Otherwise you have to figure it out the hard way...Ray S. in PA

 

[spanishmauser_51]

ok im gonna throw this in here mabye some of ya'll know somthng i can't seem to find. but i have a 4.0LSOHC 99 eddie bauer with the on demand automatic 4wd system. and this last couple o' days the 4wd high lige flashes on and off in the morning whn i first drive it. thn it quits after i get where im ging turn it off and so on... i had some pretty odd clunks and rattle and what not engaging the 4wd initially whn i purchased the vehicle 3 weeks ago. it has 103k miles. i had my mechanic read the diagnostic on the computer and its telling us that the solenoid or motor or w/e engages this 4wd system is gone bad. my question is that really what has prolly happned? and its jsut the 4wd high light that flashes. am i looking at abad t-case or whole transmission as i had suggested to me previously?

 

[Captkeithp]

Can Anyone tell me if a 4X4 transfer case from a 96 explorer will work in a 91 explorer???
Thanks, Capt. Keith

 

[99explo]

My t case went out on my 98 xlt explorer so i got a tcase from a 98 ranger and replaced it. the wiring harness was not exactly the same so i had to cut and splice. only problem is i have no 4high and the 4high and 4low lights blink constantly even when not engaged.. any probable causes?

 

[gijoecam]

My t case went out on my 98 xlt explorer so i got a tcase from a 98 ranger and replaced it. the wiring harness was not exactly the same so i had to cut and splice. only problem is i have no 4high and the 4high and 4low lights blink constantly even when not engaged.. any probable causes?

Do you mean any causes aside from the fact that the t-case from a 98 Ranger is not the same as the t-case from a 98 Explorer? Or do you mean the part where the wiring is different and the electronic controls are completely incompatible? Or maybe you overlooked the part where mechanically they are completely different units inside?

:scratch::scratch:

Aside from that, I can't possibly think of what might be causing the problem...

 

[vulture_br]

Dear Gijoecam,
I had the same problem with my Expl 98 in my case I got with no traction in the middle of an avenue, I call for towing in my insurance company and took the car to my job, next day I started troubleshooting, I found the actuator in the torq and power on demand transfer box not working, I found it commanding high and low, I heard no clunck noise, when I removed the actuator I found the command shaft in a intermediate position High Neutral Low it was near neutral, when I move i by hand to the high position everything worked again, I replaced the actuator and everything became normal again.