I think it's the A4LD blues? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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I think it's the A4LD blues?




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Well I got it all done and no dice. Still have to lift foot it for the 2-3 shift:frustrate. I'm a little stumped now. I did everything in the transgo kit except for the new low/reverse servo spring and I drilled all the holes at the largest size. All other gears shift nice and firm.

Could a TV cable out of adjust cause my issues? I got burnt out tonight so I will adjust tomorrow if I get off work early enough.
 






So, it works fine it just doesn't shift into 3rd without you lifting your foot or manually shifting it?

Sounds as though the governor could be causing that.
 






Another thing, when I was installing the new int. servo I pushed it in to install the snap ring and it stayed in about a 1/4", I just figured it would pop back out where it's susposed to sit after driving. I forgot about when adjusting the bands and I did as the tranny shop does theirs at 1.5 turns out(Transgo shift kit says to back of 3/4 turn). When I first took off and it shifted to second it stopped like I hit the park brake. I turned around figuring it needed to be readjusted but it was fine after that.

Ok so here is what I ended up with on adjustment the first time
OD band - 3 turns in 1.5 out= 1.5 turns gained
INT band- 1.5 turns in 1.5 out= 0 gained

Before installing VB or servos I reached up and felt the amount of freeplay and I know the INT adjuster was looser than the OD. Could the servo being in the bore too far when I adjusted it cause that issue? I'll readjust and see.
 






Really, is that possible for the governor to act up only on the 2-3 shift? That would be reassuring.
I expected it to shift hard since I drilled everything to the max but it's firm it feels good in all other gears I like it.
 






Not sure about the servo issue, did you compare the old to the new when you replaced it? Sounds like it works fine other than the 2-3 shift?

If you manually shift the trans does it preform correctly?

Sorry to abandon you like that, I am back on the road for a couple weeks.
 






Servos are correct it just stuck until I drove it, that is ok now.

No, manually shifting doesn't change anything, I wish it did.

No worries, you've been great, and given me solid advice. many thanks.

Couple questions,
Is it normal for the converter to lock-up in 3rd?
If it shifts from 4-3 good does that suggest it's not a band issue?
can a runnability issue give me false 2-3 flare feeling?

If you're wondering what all that's about,
I noticed the converter is locking up under no load at 40mph and up in 3rd and I can't remember if it's normal.

If I floor it in OD or manually shift from OD-D it slams into 3rd, not a bad thing remember I like a really hard shift. Now why would it slip from 2-3 but not 3-2?

As with the runnability issue I began noticing both around the same time. It feels like a clogged fuel filter/misfire issue and when I feel it acting up seems like when I get the 2-3 flare. The f/f is about 1yr old (usually I change it every 6 months) and the plugs/wires are ?. I haven't changed them since I've owned it (5years) and I did pull a few to see what shape they were in, they're mismatched, some Autolite some Ac Delco but most were Bosch CRAPtinum :thumbdwn: . All seem to be in bad shape, burning very white but not much electrode left.

Anyhow, I picked up plugs and wires for now and I will see if it makes a diff. At least it should take care of the miss. The plugs I got was what the manufacturer suggested autolite urinium :dunno: or something like that $8.00 per hole, damn REALLY. The wires I got were the most expensive they stocked, Borg Warner.
 






Well, sounds as though you still have your initial problem doesn't it? As I am not home I can't look in my Ford A4LD manual to help you. I will be back at the first week of April and will look then if you want.

Maybe not governor, I don't want to say anything to mislead you without studying up a bit.

Did you find out the proper tightening sequence for the VB?
 






Negative on the torque sequence, I have to be honest, I didn't use a torque wrench I used a nut driver and I alternated as tightening. Just remember that my issue has not gotten worse just a little better if anything. I have a good feel for the amount of torque I apply. I did stop by harbor freight and finally pick up a 1/4" torque wrench.

The reason I mentioned a runnability issue is because all the plugs are burning very white and I think my lower intake is leaking causing a vac leak and lean condition. I did a vac test and it's around 17 in hg at idle but w/slight acceleration almost no vacuum. My thinking is that the modulator isn't getting enough vacuum.

If you could look in your a4ld manual when you get back and get a chance it would be great, thanks. Maybe I should pick one up. Where can I find one?

I'm hesitant to spend much more on this tranny as I'd much rather spend the money on a m5od. I will try fixing this runability issue first since I know it needs to be taking care of one way or the other.

If all else fails I will look into rebuilding the a4ld if the cost isn't too much and I can justify it, if I decide to go that route I will try a governor first, since I would be replacing it anyhow I wouldn't see it as a waste of money if you know what I mean.
 






So can anyone confirm if it's normal for the converter to lock up in 3rd?
 






Well, my X has been garage art for a few months now so I can't test right now, but when in 3rd while set in OD, I've had the converter fully lock up before shifting rather suddenly to 4th while accelerating uphill, but I've never run into a lockup that wouldn't allow for shifting. Could you be more specific in your description?
 






I got my manual off Ebay. I'll look for you when I get home.
 






naasau- It doesn't stop it from shifting, it just locks up in 3rd. I don't know if you read through the whole thread but I don't use OD, I always keep it in D unless I'm doing 70 which is rare. I remember reading on this site that the a4ld only locks up in OD. I know it's locked up because I can tap the brake and it will unlock. It doesn't effect my issue directly because it's after the 2-3 flare and as I've stated, once it's in third it doesn't slip whatsoever.

So I still don't understand why it downshifts so good, especially 4-3. can anyone clarify?

Thanks wood, I saw them online for around $20, I stopped at the parts store today but they couldn't get 'em.

What irratates me the most is this started the day after I picked up my brand new Warn manual hubs and spindle nut kit. I haven't even had a chance to install them yet. I have 2 complete sets of auto hubs plus a spare, all have the cams, nuts, keepers and thrust washers. I'm not trying to sell them here but I was wondering how much they sell for per set if anyone has an idea.
 






http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pdf_documents/A4LD_manual.pdf

http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/manual/autotrans/A4LDEoverhaul.pdf

Dude, I had some spare time so I had a look in BB's useful links thread. Look at #69( http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1439158&postcount=17)

Not to come down on you but not using the proper tightening sequence and a torque wrench is 100% a no-no and can cause many problems including the one you are having.

The first link is the ATSG manual and might have the answer to your problems, read it carefully.

The second is a rebuild manual I believe

Wood.
 






Copy and paste from BB's post re modulator R&R:

"There is a pin behind the modulator that could easily fall out, so be very careful when you remove the modulator. Hold a magnet underneath the modulator while you are pulling it out. Always remove the modulator with a twisting motion instead of just pulling it out. The O ring holds it in place along with a bolt, so the new modulator should have a little transmission fluid applied to the new O ring to make it slide in easier. Apply Vaseline (petroleum jelly) onto the pin, then insert it into the new modulator. It will help prevent it from getting lost. Use a small wire tube brush to clean the bore of old debris before installing the new modulator. There are numerous complaints from people explaining that they are having shifting issues with the new part because dirt was stuck to the bore, and is causing the pin to bind. Are you getting a preadjusted modulator or an adjustable one? Which place are you ordering it from? How is your heat shield? Some people replace the servos at the same time since they are accessible."
 






When the governor fails or starts to fail you should experience a 1-2 shift problem, usually when cold and then starts to work better as the tranny heats up to operating temp. The 2-3 shift issue can be the modulator or a valve body problem. I first wonder how the modulator replacement went and second the way you torqued your VB. I don't think your governor is the problem.
 






Thanks again wood, I appreciate all the searching and links I will read through 'em slowly so I don't miss something.

I was wondering about the modulator pin so I pulled it back out this evening and it seemed fine, no big deal since it only took 10 minutes to R&R the modulator. I knew I didn't forget it but wanted to verify that all looked well. Now I'm thinking tomorrow I'll pull it again, after reading your post about dirt causing the pin to stick, I know their was dirt on the pin when I pulled it so maybe I'll clean it.

I really wish it was as simple as a governor but I'm with you on this, my problem isn't a cold 1-2 shift it's a warm 2-3 shift, it always shifts good for the first ten minutes of driving since the shift kit, modulator, servos and boost valve.

The reason I wasn't too concerned about VB torque is the tranny shop said they tighten theirs down with a drill that has a adjustable clutch set on #4. I used a bosch cordless set on #1 then went over the bolts lightly using a nut driver. I'm not against removing the pan and actually torqing the VB since I picked up a 1/4" torque wrench just for that purpose(the one I bought before I started was 3/8" drive and started at 120 in/lb which is what I thought was required). The 1 and only concern I have with doing that is, I have the same issue I started with and it had just started so I know it wasn't originally caused by bolts over torqued. I've found lots of threads while searching where people have developed all sorts of different issues after doing VB work that mostly were caused by their screw up so luckily I'm not one of them(meaning w/new issues).

I have nothing to lose from doing it the right way(except 4 more quarts of tranny fluid) so that's another thing I'll try. It's been bugging me since I finished, that I was so worried about getting it done I wouldn't go get the right torque wrench, that I did such a crappy job.
 






It would be strange if it were the VB torque that is causing your present issue considering it was the original problem but stranger things have happened. If it is tightened unevenly the VB can warp and jamb the valves.

Did you compare the new modulator to the old one? People are sometimes sold a C-3 modulator mistakenly. They look very similar, the C-3 one has a longer stem I believe. (Going by memory again...)

Your trans works fine until it warms up? I wonder what the line pressure is doing, cold/hot. You may have to get yourself a pressure gauge and tape it to the windshield and do some runs to figure out what is going on.

I used Transgo's specs for band adjustment when I rebuilt my VB. Maybe you should go with the 3/4 turn? Can't hurt to try.

Lastly, did you adjust your kickdown cable?
 






On the band adjustment I did go with the transgo instructions, I pulled the driveline for better feel and tightened the adjuster until the output shaft wouldn't then backed it off until it would turn then another 3/4 turn.

I adjusted the kickdown cable according to transgo instructions also. However they say to slide the adjuster in 1/2" so their's no kickdown at 20mph then move it out 1/8" at a time until their's a kickdown at 45mph. Mine only moved in 1/4" at most and I still had a kickdown so I left it, and it did make it happen less but was still there. It did help some.

I will pull the mod. again to measure although I think I lined them up. I will measure w/a caliper with the pin in and verify if they are the same.

I think you're onto something with the way I tightened the VB. I KNOW their's no way I got all the bolts torqued exactly the same without a torque wrench so I will re-do. I was told by the tranny shop that if the VB had to be removed once the gaskets could be reused. What do you think? Reuse or replace? I don't want to drop it again so I was hoping to just loosen and retighten. If I do have to drop the VB I will also pick up 5 new check balls since the shift kit says to use one but didn't come with it. While reading the ATSG manual it stated for my issues that faulty check balls could cause my issues, as well as needing a tune up (which I did but haven't test drove yet) and yes, VB too loose/tight.

Thank you so much wood for all the solid advice I don't want you to think I'm one of those guys that keep asking questions but don't do anything with the info, I'm trying.
 



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Did you do the gas pedal mod? These is often a fair bit of slack in the gas pedal and when you floor it the throttle valve may not open fully. This may account for the slack in your kickdown cable unless I am thinking backwards (having a sip of scotch). I'm not sure what you mean about only being able to move the cable in 1/4. You should be able to slacken it right up. I had to lube my adjuster up with WD40, at factory the way they adjusted it was to install it slack and floor the gas pedal, adjustment done. The gas pedal mod is simply to put zip ties on the end of the cable at the gas pedal to take up the slack so the throttle valve opens all the way when floored.

As far as the valve body gasket, a new one is super cheap. I like to do things totally the right way whenever I can when it comes to engines and transmissions, at least then you don't doubt your work when you still have problems. Been there and done that (banged head against wall). Really if you pull the gasket and find it isn't torn it is probably fine to reuse it, would I, probably not.

The check ball mentioned in the ATSG manual is not in the VB, but if you are missing one then it'll be a good time to do it.

Keep plugging away, hopefully your problem is something we can figure out and not something that would require a rebuild. I don't mind helping out, I can see you are trying hard.
 






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