How to: 2002 Explorer rear wheel bearing replacement (pictures)

[NUFX]

Thanks for this. I was searching the forum for quite sometime and I am thankful for the following info. Many thanks again!

I took the knuckle and new hub to NAPA to press out the old and press in the new. 1 hour and $30 later it was ready to go back together.
I didn't take pictures of the installation but here are a few tips.
Use some sandpaper or wire wheel to remove the rust from the pins on the toe link and upper control arm and used a generous amount of antisieze on them before inserting back into the knuckle. Clean the bolts and also use antisieze on them.
Install the axle nut first only snug and then reattach the toe link and upper control arm.
Torque the pinch bolts to 66 Ft Lbs. The axle nut shows 203 Ft Lbs. I feel this is too much so I went with 175 Lbs and will check it periodically. My thought is that possibly the bearings wore out prematurely do an over tight axle nut. Your call on this.
It will all go back together 100 times easier than it came apart. For the average occasional backyard mechanic, plan on at least a full 8 hour + time frame for doing this.
If you have any questions or comments please post them here and I'll try and answer them. Hope this helps and good luck.


Finished job. This picture also shows a new spring and strut installed which I did along with the bearing replacement.

Thanks also for the vids. Those helped.

This guy just replaced the bearing with simple tools, can this be done the same way in Ford Explorer/Mountaineer ? it consists of 4 parts..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CKdRs...eature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ntIuxDTSQQA-Wheel Bearing Module

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uKA3B...eature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rhSU4...eature=related

 

[DashCapt]

I am new to the forum and I just finished this project on my Ex. Thanks to all y'all who contributed to the info here! The job was actually relatively painless thanks to all of the tips here (especially the part about using a chisel on the knuckle to get to control arms and toe link out). Amazingly enough, the toe link was the stubborn part of the disassembly for me... The UCA popped out with two good wacks with the big hammer.

I decided to rehab the parking brake while I had everything apart... Now THAT was a major PITA!

 

[ScubaDave]

Finally - almost!

Well it has been a longer run for me doing the bearing replacement than I ever realized. Not because it was that much tougher, but because I got interupted with other life issues. But I did make it back to the project I started back last Thanksgiving.

I had real trouble pressing out the bearings, even with a 12T press. I finally had the guy who suggested heat do the bearing knock out and replace. His price was right - free. Anyway, he ran a welding bead around the inside of the race that was broken and the top of the one that wasn't and the heat differential when it cooled actually let them fall out with no pressure. Wow!

I put them back in my 02 EB and the wheels and new bearings work fine. However, now I'm getting a clicking/ticking noise from the rear differential, mainly associated with the right rear axle movemment. I'm afraid that the axle did some damage into the differential while it was freely banging around after the inner race disintergrated. Any thoughts as to what might be damaged or how to approach the situation? Initially, I thought that it might be just a lack of differential fluid, but Maybe it's way more serious.

How about it? Any thoughts, now?

Thanks,
ScubaDave

 

[russhigg]

Man this is an amazing post

 

[fordbluefamily]

I just did yet another set of rear bearings. I actually replaced the entire center differential, both halfshafts, and rear wheel bearings at the same time on my dads 2002 Explorer.
In case anyone is wondering what the current cost is to bring your knuckles and the new parts you already bought to Ford and have them do the press work, it was 178 bucks. They were done in 3 hours. Worth every penny to me. I have access to a very nice large press, but trying to get those things lined up right is beyond what I care to do. Not to mention how much of a headache it is if you press one wrong...Last shop I had do them on my old Explorer did one crooked and it only lasted about 5K miles before it got real noisy and bad again.

 

[rynodog]

thank you

great write up, took less than an hour to take apart, about an hour to reinstall not counting down time at the machine shop and using no air or power tools

i did not need a puller to get the cv shaft to come out of the hub, just 5 or 6 hits with a 2 and a half pound dead blow hammer. (run the nut flush to the end of the shaft) the plastic shattered on one end with the last hit, it was time for a new one any way

i also did the top ball joint last , it was kind of a close but the cv shaft will slide out with the top ball joint attached. i did it this way so i could spin it around and pound the chisel into the gap easier.

the noise (very obvious from the rr) was only at highway speeds and when cornering to the left or changing lanes from right to left . new bearing = no noise

 

[ScubaDave]

Bearing Job Done!!

Well, I finally got the solution to the ticking noise in the rear after replacing the bearings. Apparently, I bent the parking brake spreaders while trying to press out the bearings at some point. They were actually hitting the tightning roll on the CV joint boot while the wheel turned. Weird.

Of course I found it on one wheel, and fixed it, only to hear it still happening, but on the other wheel. Same problem - same solution.

So, I took the car out for a test run and ran to the library, post office and super market and all seemed fine with the bearings. But after pulling back in the driveway and trying to figure out why my digital display of milage, miles per gallon, etc was so dim, I turned off the car and found it wouldn't restart!!

Found fuse 41 in my '02 EB had blown! Anyway, though this is for another thread, this fuse apparently powers the HEGO, VMV, CMS, and PTEC. Thank goodness it didn't blow while I was out! Now I have to research this fuse and items it powers to find cause.

Will it ever end? This vehicle has 198,941 miles on it but gets better milage than my back up vehicle and I'd really like to get it back in service. I need to save where I can.

ScubaDave

 

[amking]

Thanks for the great write up!

I have about 8 hours into replacing both rear bearings. Still need to pull things back apart in the next few weeks to replace all the parking break hardware. Running without it for now.

Off to get an alignment. Going to go with the Fireston lifetime alignment.

Thanks again!

 

[filteredsoul]

In process...

I started this repair on Friday night. Soaked everything with PB Blaster, then when it looked a little dry, hit it again. -Both passenger and driver rears.
Started on the Passenger side, and everything went as described by everyone else. There were some points where I wanted to give up, but then I'd move the toe link a 16th of an inch!! That kept me going. I found that a direct hit on the toe link (and upper control arm too) worked the best. I used a pretty thick drift and a standard hammer, and didn't mar the surface hardly. I got close enough to the rubber boots, but didn't make contact. Whew! The passenger side rear was definitely tighter than the driver's side. It was a complete workout turning the bolt on the hub remover to get the hub off, but I got it. The driver's side hub came off with my hands. Just slid right off.
I'm at the point of going to a friend's shop to press the old out and the new in. That'll be tonight. Hopefully everything will go as planned and I'll be able to have it all together by tomorrow night. By the way... by my testing, the passenger side was the bad bearing. Turning right would make the noise go away, and turning left would make it louder. So I have the old hub assembly's on the ground and I turn the hub by hand just to see if I can feel any bumps/vibration or hear anything weird. The passenger hub felt like it was filled with sand. The driver's side was smooth. So far, I was right on my diagnosis.
Kind of exciting when you can actually perform a relatively complicated procedure and save lots of money! A shop quoted me $1125 for both rears, and so far I'm only out $194 and my time. (Rock Auto Timken assmb. L and R shipped)
Thanks to Tyler92 and everyone who has put the time into helping us regular guys out!

 

[jpoprock]

Buried in this thread are pix of my rear hub/bearing/spring replacement... and I now have a question. Or should I say, I need clarification on something...

I think I may have said this in my original post, but I sorta took my friend off guard when I showed up and asked if he could press my bearings in for me. We had to sort of improvise when it came to finding something that matched the size of the bearing. We used something that was barely the same size. So when pressing the first bearing into the hub, we sort of pushed the inside of the bearing beyond it's outer ring about a 1/4". So we then had to push the inside in flush with the outer race.

I wasn't happy about it, but it wasn't his fault. We got the second one in just fine because we were more careful. However, I sort of EXPECTED to end up having a problem with that bearing.... and that time has finally come. Actually, It came about a year after the installation. Probably just in time for there to be no warranty!

So, what I want clarification on, is can I just buy a Timken bearing, rent the hub tool to pull the hub off, press the old bearing out, and then press JUST a new bearing in? Or do I have to buy the entire hub and bearing and put a new one in?

Now that I've done it, I'm not at all concerned about doing it again. It's just one side, and even both sides weren't a big deal. The SPRINGS were a nightmare though.

I also need new shocks and struts for the front of my veh, but I think the front hubs are ok still. I'm just getting a roar from my right rear wheel when going down the road, and I can sorta push pull the tire while the veh is on all four's, and get it "knock". So, the bearing is failing, but the HUB should be ok right?

I'll ask another quick question, but I may have to search for the answer or put it in a different thread... but I had no clue what a press was until I saw one. It look like a contraption that was either home made, or not. But it was basically what looked like a hydrolic floor jack. The greater the ton, the more it will press I guess. So, do guys build these or buy them, or both? If I were to press a bearing in, and didn't want to ask my neighbor, are they expensive to make or buy? What sort of ton size would I need?

Also... what are you supposed to use to press the bearing in? It's like a spacer or something right? It looked like it could be anything that was the right size, like steel pipe that was cut short or something. Is that all you'd need? Something like that to match the exact diameter of the outside of the bearing? I can't think of any good reason why I'd need a press ever again in my life, but I don't like to bother others for my needs. I'd rather just try to get my own if possible.

Besides... I think my neighbor has turned cold towards me and I'm not sure why. He's a wonderful man, and I've been nothing but kind to him. Since I'm like a "kid" to him, I'm usually the one asking him for help, but I BEG him to ask me for help if he needs it, to return the kindness. But I think after I squeezed off about 50 rounds from a .45 cal in the back yard one day, it made him mad. Even though I was within the law, and legal, and safe. I think THAT is what made him mad. Or maybe it's all in my mind? But I'm really good as "gut feelings", and I get that something may have changed and can't think of any reason other than that. So... getting my own press isn't such a bad thing now! LOL!

Sorry so long.

Jason

 

[96Ag]

Great and very informative thread. I used front hub thread to replace the front hubs last year and now the rears have gone bad.

A question, do I need to replace the whole hub assembly or do I just need to purchase the bearing and then have them pressed into the old hub? Is it possible to buy the whole set new and complete?

Thanks to all who have contributed.

 

[Tyler92]

Well it's been about 18 months since I posted this DIY and guess what. The left rear has gone again. Saturday it will once again come apart to be replaced. Last time I did it on the cheap, using cheap parts from AutoPartsDirectToYou.com. They have a lifetime warranty but as with many things it's just not worth the bother to ship the defective part back. I would highly reccommend not using cheap Chinese parts as they just don't last.
This time I'm going with quality Timken bearings from AutoZone. Hopefully this time it last more than 15K miles I had on the previous one.
I'm glad to see all the people that this thread has helped and hope it helps many more.
Wish me luck, I'm goin in the wheel well.

 

[Blrob5]

what's the cost for the part from autozone?

 

[Tyler92]

Job is done once again and hopefully for the last time. Very easy to do as I had antiseized everything last time and it came apart with no effort. The longest time was waiting for the bearings to be pressed in at NAPA. I used good quality Timken bearings this time and it should hold up well. I also bought new axle nuts this time from Ford $23 for two.
Total cost was in the $500 area this time. Total time including the 2 1/2 hour wait for NAPA was 5 hours from start to finish for both sides.
Growling is again now gone.

 

[Blrob]

Just a suggestion to all, purchase the sealed bearings vs. the non-sealed bearings. They will last much longer. Depending where you buy them, the might be 20-30 dollars more each than the non-sealed bearings, but it is worth the investment. I did this job and it only took me 2 hours from start to finish.

 

[Tyler92]

Just a suggestion to all, purchase the sealed bearings vs. the non-sealed bearings. They will last much longer. Depending where you buy them, the might be 20-30 dollars more each than the non-sealed bearings, but it is worth the investment. I did this job and it only took me 2 hours from start to finish.

Please share with everyone where you got the sealed bearings and the brand. Had I known they made such a thing I would have used them.

 

[Blrob]

I work for a shop so i'm able to get parts at cost. I got the sealed bearings directly from a Ford dealership here in Buffalo. With tax, total was 176.00. You can also get them from Napa autoparts as well, they cost a little more.

 

[muck]

Well i have everything apart and the middle of the bearings are stuck. The top and bottom of bothe rear bearings came out and now im struggling with a middle chunk. i tried heating them, pressing them,and hitting them and nothing not even budging. and ideas?

 

[Blrob]

Not sure what kind of press you are using, but I used a 20 ton press at work. the first bearingt(the bearing that wasn't so bad) came out with ease. The second bearing had to be heated. I kept heat on it for about 5-10 minutes. Popped it back on the press and it came right out.

 

[muck]

brought them to a shop. i was using a 12 ton press didnt seem to do the trick.