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Best bolt ons for the 4.0L OHV?

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Sounds a bit like he just has a lot of faith in sales men.
The HP figures for the JET performance chip are actual dyno results from Jess Pranskus, tech over at Jet Performance for what the chip is supposed to deliver.
the figures from the pro-fab intake are what I was told the intake tube is supposed to be good for
This part is just hilarious
Notice I did not quote gains for the drop in filter
Oh well I guess you should have......maybe 0.001 hp gain.
I think maybe its time for a reality check. Sales men are out to make $$$ and if that means feed you BS that's usually fine with them. Just don't try and feed us that.
Here is a good rule to live by "believe none of what you hear and half of what you see" the world is full of smoke and mirrors.
 






I have no reason to doubt the figures- I happen to work next to JET and got the chip way below MSRP and a few coworkers here used to be JET employees and corraborate what they said. Considering the fact that this is a piggyback chip on the ecm (not ebay junk) and JET is one of our most popular vendors where I work (albeit selling Chevy parts). The engine woke up quite a bit after the chip and again, this is confirmed by actual dyno tests.

The world may be full of smoke and mirrors but frankly the combined gain of approx 26hp is not unreasonable. The coil was definitely a big plus because idle got smoother and throttle response at freeway speeds was dramatically improved. I didn't have to downshift nearly as much after installing the coil.

Again, the 4.0L intake tube is from ProFab and the intake tube and the tb are major points of restriction in the factory intake. Is there some reason why you think these would yield zero gain? A cumulative 10hp for the intake tube, ported tb and drop in panel is perfectly reasonable, especially in conjunction with an ecm chip set up for higher intake flow.
 






Just confirmed with Performance distributors. 1-3hp is reasonable and average reported gains of closer to 3-5hp, main benefit is throttle response and fuel economy, though they do not have dyno sheets.
 






On my 4.0L OHV engine I built my own high flow intake, hollowed the two cats, and bought a $20 raptor muffler. I can leave a black mark on the tar for a good 25'. The engine is more of a torq'er. I have a 2dr Navajo 5spd. I use a larger tube for the MAF also. Had it up to about 115mph on the way to the emergency room once. I think the engine needs to breath better through the valves first and with a bigger cam lobe also.

Edit: Didn't mean to change the subject.
 






intake tube and the tb are major points of restriction in the factory intake

Actually, the main point of restriction in the intake system that most knowledgeable members address first is the MAF sensor housing. If you look inside you will see why. It makes very little difference doing these other mods until you replace the MAF, its like trying to breath through a straw. With that being said, a new MAF and a decent tune would take advantage of the other mods (ie. intake tube and throttle plate). You'll be hard pressed to see any substantial gains without the MAF upgrade and tune since the MAF is upstream of the tube and throttle body.

I'm not here to argue, I'm just saying that by going by estimated figures by sales people and making claims of hp gain numbers isn't going to sell here.
 


















Actually, the main point of restriction in the intake system that most knowledgeable members address first is the MAF sensor housing. If you look inside you will see why. It makes very little difference doing these other mods until you replace the MAF, its like trying to breath through a straw. With that being said, a new MAF and a decent tune would take advantage of the other mods (ie. intake tube and throttle plate). You'll be hard pressed to see any substantial gains without the MAF upgrade and tune since the MAF is upstream of the tube and throttle body.

I'm not here to argue, I'm just saying that by going by estimated figures by sales people and making claims of hp gain numbers isn't going to sell here.

No, it is valves, then the intake manifold, then the MAF. The intake tube and filter don't even compare to the restriction on those.


To the other poster....

I am calling your numbers BS because an ignition coil will not give you more horsepower, unless you are able to create a significant enough amount of additional voltage to increase the gap in your plugs. There are simple physics involved here. I use a screaming deamon coil too, I put it in because my stock one was bad after 20 years.... It does the same thing the stock one does, makes high voltage. Fortunately, I can gap my plugs slightly wider because of that, but I guarantee you that the slight additional gap doesn't give me 3 hp or 3mpg.

I am also calling BS on your numbers because I have the same mods as you and more, and I am not seeing any 26 whp or 6mpg out of them. I said 30 horsepower because anyone who knows anything about cars knows there is driveline loss, so if you are seeing an increase of 26rwhp, you are talking about an increase at the flywheel of 30 horsepower.

A cumulative gain of 10 hp for a panel filter, intake tube and ported throttle body? Other than the fact that this is an 8% increase in horsepower, they aren't even that restrictive. One the panel filter will not give you anything. While they flow more than a stock paper filter, the factory air box does not flow the maximum amount that the paper filter is capable of flowing, and it flows roughly the same as the heads can flow. Two, even if there was a flow restriction, a ported, optimized throttle body even on a car that does experience significant flow restrictions, it is rare that I have ever seen one gain more than 1 horsepower. The throttle tube..... The stock intake tube flows as much as a stock throttle body, so best case scenario, your profab intake tube is increasing the flow to match your ported throttle body. Finally, the main gain for any of those types of breathing mods are going to be at high RPM where you are not at peak horsepower, so your gain will only be at a certain range, not an overall gain. These engines need head work and different cams to make power.

As for your quote from the JET ad.... I can run a dyno and make it appear that changing your headlights can give you 13 horsepower.

Make sure you can back up your claims before you challenge others. I am not going to get into a negative proof argument with you. Your mods will not give you the performance you are claiming, and unless you could prove that they can, don't go around telling people they can. BTW, on top of having every bolt on that you have, I also use a cone filter with a splash shield, removed my stock fan in favor of electric, had my injectors flowmatched and have a catback exhaust.

Anybody who has ever had a vehicle dyno tuned or done dyno tuning knows that adding part X (10hp) + part y (10hp) + part z (10 hp) will never equal 30 whp on a dyno.

This^^
 






Uhhhh the Screamin demon coil widens gap to .065, hence the gain if you'd actually read up on it before making boldface assumptions.

I did neglect to mention I HAVE switched MAF housings as well- I've done so much it is hard to remember all of it. I had a grip of large Ford MAF housings lying around and stuck the maf guts into a housing without that ridiculous bottleneck.
 






No, it is valves, then the intake manifold, then the MAF. The intake tube and filter don't even compare to the restriction on those.

Ok, so what your saying is that you would change valves and intake manifold before the MAF, leaving the stock MAF would be like trying to breathe through a straw, no? I know the valves don't flow for **** and the manifold design isn't exactly performance inspired but something about that logic doesn't add up. Please elaborate if you will.
 






Ok, so what your saying is that you would change valves and intake manifold before the MAF, leaving the stock MAF would be like trying to breathe through a straw, no? I know the valves don't flow for **** and the manifold design isn't exactly performance inspired but something about that logic doesn't add up. Please elaborate if you will.

I mean the biggest restrictions are those parts in that order. The stock MAF isn't even that big of a restriction except at HIGH RPM.

Uhhhh the Screamin demon coil widens gap to .065, hence the gain if you'd actually read up on it before making boldface assumptions.

I did neglect to mention I HAVE switched MAF housings as well- I've done so much it is hard to remember all of it. I had a grip of large Ford MAF housings lying around and stuck the maf guts into a housing without that ridiculous bottleneck.

So you have swapped the electronics from a smaller MAF into a larger housing..... In other words, your engine is metering less air than it is actually receiving. Congratulations, you have just effectively done the same thing as if you had a vacuum leak.

I know all about the screamin demon coil like I said, I have one as well, and even with a larger gap, you aren't going to see more than 1 horsepower if you are lucky. Stock coils aren't that inefficient, I don't know what it is in the car culture where people assume that car manufacturers have been putting completely substandard parts on cars. You are the one who obviously doesn't know what he is talking about. Why don't you stop making claims until you have even seen a dyno once in your life.
 






I mean the biggest restrictions are those parts in that order. The stock MAF isn't even that big of a restriction except at HIGH RPM.

Ok, I see what your saying....
 






Man- this is ####ing retarded. Long story short- I am hard up for cash, I built this thing as best I could and because my ####ing family made me give up on
The ex and buy another car when the trans went right after replacing the clutch, now I need to sell it to pay rent next month as well as pay the $1650 balance remaining on the volvo's motor.

Look, I merchandise this stuff for a living and I'm tired of arguing the point. I have a lot of money time and thought put into what I used to build the ex and frankly i'm kind of miffed none of you can respect the effort put into this damn thing.

I'm done. This argument is like the special olympics- even if you win, this is still retarded.

I am really glad I am leaving this community.
 






hahahhahahaahaha wow there is A LOT OF BS claims in this thread:) ahhahahman i must have damn near 500 hp then!!!!!only thing that is true and a fact is the list FIND put up.valves,lower intake and maf.you can change those in any order but max gains wont be obtained unless it goes in that order and as all ways many other thing need to be change along with each change.ie cam,tb,intake tube,head work,headers bblahh blahh blahhh.NO CHIP will gain you anything worth it on a obI truck PERIOD,it just cant adjust anything that would make a real difference.and yes changing you maf to a larger one will cause you motor to run lean at WOT or for that fact any mods will unless the ecm is programed for the changes.

man i cant wait to go race a viper in my 500+ hp ex:rolleyes::burnout:
 






Man- this is ####ing retarded. Long story short- I am hard up for cash, I built this thing as best I could and because my ####ing family made me give up on
The ex and buy another car when the trans went right after replacing the clutch, now I need to sell it to pay rent next month as well as pay the $1650 balance remaining on the volvo's motor.

Look, I merchandise this stuff for a living and I'm tired of arguing the point. I have a lot of money time and thought put into what I used to build the ex and frankly i'm kind of miffed none of you can respect the effort put into this damn thing.

I'm done. This argument is like the special olympics- even if you win, this is still retarded.

I am really glad I am leaving this community.
:wavey::wavey::wavey::wavey::wavey::wavey::wavey::wavey::wavey::wavey::wavey::wavey::wavey::wavey::wavey::wavey::wavey::wavey::wavey::wavey::wavey::wavey:
 






Man- this is ####ing retarded. Long story short- I am hard up for cash, I built this thing as best I could and because my ####ing family made me give up on
The ex and buy another car when the trans went right after replacing the clutch, now I need to sell it to pay rent next month as well as pay the $1650 balance remaining on the volvo's motor.

Look, I merchandise this stuff for a living and I'm tired of arguing the point. I have a lot of money time and thought put into what I used to build the ex and frankly i'm kind of miffed none of you can respect the effort put into this damn thing.

I'm done. This argument is like the special olympics- even if you win, this is still retarded.

I am really glad I am leaving this community.

I do respect the effort. It is a very nice looking explorer. All I was saying is to not make those claims for power and mileage because I know first hand that you won't get them on an explorer with those mods... Heck, those kinda gains are tough to get on a first gen explorer at all. You have a damn nice looking explorer, good luck with your sale, just stop making the claims about the gains.
 






Actually, the main point of restriction in the intake system that most knowledgeable members address first is the MAF sensor housing. If you look inside you will see why. It makes very little difference doing these other mods until you replace the MAF, its like trying to breath through a straw. With that being said, a new MAF and a decent tune would take advantage of the other mods (ie. intake tube and throttle plate). You'll be hard pressed to see any substantial gains without the MAF upgrade and tune since the MAF is upstream of the tube and throttle body.

I'm not here to argue, I'm just saying that by going by estimated figures by sales people and making claims of hp gain numbers isn't going to sell here.

If I listened to sales people about so called "dyno" numbers i could buy a Mustang, and reach over 600 hp naturally aspirated with just bolt ons. Until it sees the water break it's BS, there are so many things you can do to cause varying hp numbers on a dyno especially when your talking miniscule amounts.
 






Nice exploder. Let's end the bashing. Sorry you have had a bad experience with "our community" seeing as how I rather like it.

P.S> maybe the 6mpg are a result of you running lean! I know the vacuum leaks in my 89 omni, more than likely, lead to my superb mpg! haha
 



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The HP figures for the JET performance chip are actual dyno results from Jess Pranskus, tech over at Jet Performance for what the chip is supposed to deliver. I can cite the dyno sheet if need be. Screamin Demon coil is only good for a handful of HP and the figures from the pro-fab intake are what I was told the intake tube is supposed to be good for. It does get much better mileage than it did beforehand, my wallet and fuel expenses since modifications attest to that. Again, gains are cumulative and complimented by other components. It is without question a much more powerful truck as a result. I have not dyno'd it because I don't see the need to and what I wrote was correct as far as I know. How do you know a JET Performance chip is *not* good for those figures? I'd like to see your dyno sheet proving JET wrong.

I'm not trying to pull the wool over anyone's eyes here, just what everything is supposed to
be. Given how restrictive the factory intake tube is and the difference in response, 10 hp doesn't seem all that unreasonable, particularly in conjunction with the rest of the modified intake tract. Notice I did not quote gains for the drop in filter or the ported/halfshafted tb. Considering I bought my coil and tb from a reputable tuner's personal vehicle, I don't see why a higher voltage coil would not result in any gains.

I don't see how widening the plug gap and increased voltage would not naturally increase output and by handful of HP I'm talking 1-3hp. I know firsthand that small changes such as a tb spacer can result in 1 rwhp and +7 rwtq in other Ford applications.

Performance tune up means I used quality HD components rather than just whatever stock was, ie, to increase performance.

Lord, you lot are harsh. It's no wonder I don't post that often. I'm glad I am leaving the Exp community. I put everything down to the best of my knowledge.
I'm pretty new to the Explorer world, but am fairly well versed in Ford engines. Every vehicle we've owned has been a ford since the seventies (Lincoln's, Mustang's, Torino's, Bronco's, Econoline's, pickups etc.
I find some of the comments harsh too, but knowing the nitty gritty of the 4.0L and it's lineage, you are simply not going to get significant gains in HP unless:
Number 1. You get higher compression either with pistons or shaving the heads. or........
number 2. You get a more aggressive cam.

without one or both of these mods, the rest of the bolt ons available for the 4.0 will do very little.
Some would say the displacement and output of the 4.0L is about as far as you should push this motor given it's rather small block size and rather pedestrian reinforcing rib structure, and the fact that in essence, the 4.0L. was pushed out to the displacement from 2.9L.

In the auto mechanics world I've heard it all building 5.0L's, 351's, and numerous 6 cyl. motors. The K&N air filter miraculous HP gains. The intake swap gains, exhaust, etc....
The bottom line is it's a combination of parts and attributes that have to work together to give you the gains that some of these companies claim their part will give you on it's own.
It just doesn't happen.

Now I have no doubt that adding the parts you did had some effect. Most likely the chip is giving you a little better off the line "feel". The throttle most likely feels a little more responsive giving you the sensation of more power.

The coil....Mmmmmm.....that's actually not so easy to write off.
This is an area I experimented with quite a bit actually.
With brand new Motorcraft wires, I ran several different coils head to head to see if there were in fact any gains. I never noticed any gains in HP or torque with a high voltage Mallory or MSD, but there were some interesting changes. Firstly, on a carbureted engine, the idle became a little more solid, or stable, even with a fairly aggressive cam.
The second thing was the odor from the pipes changed. With the OEM coil, as well as a Motorcaraft replacement stock unit, there was a slightly rich odor, but with the HE coils, the odor became almost sulpherous.
weird for sure, but no proof of HP gain, but there was a noticeable reduction in off idle stumble.

Chips.......I'm not a fan of them. I've played around with these in my vehicles, as well as been witness to friends who have used them.
I'm not going into it because there are some who swear by them, but from what I can see as well as some of these friends drawing the same conclusion, unless you really dig into an engine swapping pistons, cam/s, heads...the chips are basically lipstick on a pig. Now some of the programmers out there are a slightly different story.
There are some very well engineered units out there that do bring out the absolute best in an engine, but the key to these units is they can be adjusted on the fly to suit whatever driving conditions you're in.

Basically your 4.0L is a pretty good engine all on it's own. it's a pretty big displacement for a small block 6. Let's face it.....the Ex is no lightweight, and for this little motor to pull the Ex around as well and as reliably as it does is something on it's own.

I'd say quit throwing huge money at it, but hey, we're gearheads, and that's what we do!:D

at most I'd suggest a gearing, cam, throttle body, and exhaust upgrade.
There are a few guys on YT who have done this, and have quite respectable claims of gains of around 25 to 40 RWHP, but the torque has also been vastly improved.
The gear swap really lets you feel those gains too.
 






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