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Need some opinions on Amp/Sub combination

Equnoxe

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March 16, 2008
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City, State
Ontario
Year, Model & Trim Level
97' Exploder EB Edition
I have an American bass xd2000, BassWorx GPH210BK, and am looking at putting two Pioneer TS-W2502D2's with it.


the box is a dual 10", dual port with a volume of 2.4 and tuned to 40HZ

the amp has been running at .66OHM daily in my truck with no problems, I'm looking to take it to .5ohm with this setup. It'll have 2 optima's and a 2.5 farad cap feeding it.

subs are DVC 10's (dual 2 ohm magnets) wired parallel for .5ohm. Each sub is rated for 800RMS and 3000Peak.


look good or no? Its going into a Mazda 2 :( or I would keep the 6 tens :p
 



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i sold car audio equipment for years when i got out of high school and to me, the best best subs you can get are alpine type R, or jl audio subs. when it comes to amps MTX is the sturdiest, best performers for your buck. oh yeah, and all that equipment is a waste of money without good wiring. go 0g monster wire. i not only sold car audio but also worked in the warranty and customer service depts and have seen every problem under the sun. if you want the best quality, sell what you got and go alpine and/or mtx and jl.
 






ah true, yea I had planned on using the 0gauge wiring from my truck, got 50ft of it in there so there should be plenty lol.

I haven't bought them yet, but I had been looking at a similar type R (Alpine SWR-1023D) but the pioneer had better power handling. 800/3000 opposed to 600/1800.

I have type R components all round and they've been great sofar, so idk...


other then that, think the sub will hold up to the amp?
 






i think the best sub out there is treo if you dont know what that is look it up
 






cant really tell you for sure if the amp will hold up unless we know what the ratings are on the subs and how you wire it. most important thing is you get the ohms right on and that the rms of the subs dont ask more than the rms that the amp puts out if that makes sense. also, power ratings arent everything in determining what the best subs are. also look at their cone material (polypropylene is good, kevlar is the best), check the throw and spl ratings also when you look at its rms. ive always said peak power rating should be somewhere in the middle of the priority list. you can find great deals for car audio on craigslist but dont buy anything used you cant look at in person first. check the integrity of the subs, make sure there are no tears in the cone. the best little tip you can use is the smell the little hole in the center of the magnet. if it smells like a burnt match its blown. always test a used amp before buying. good luck!
 






an alpine type x will blow a type r out of the water...i have also installed them..the type r is not much better than the the type s..as for the best best sub its all a matter or personal opinon nothing more...i would not waste my time with any alpine except the type x honestly...

to the author of the post,
go to your local audio shops and take a listen to what they have that fits your budget then pull the trigger
 






for the money, a type r is the best bang for the buck. and there is a major difference between the s and the r. of course the x is going to sound better, but you will be spending twice as much for maybe 25% better quality than the type r subs.
 






for the money, a type r is the best bang for the buck. and there is a major difference between the s and the r. of course the x is going to sound better, but you will be spending twice as much for maybe 25% better quality than the type r subs.

not trying to start any problems but show me a type r that has won a sq comp of any sort...best bang for the buck in my opinion is the rockford t1 or a jl w6v2. But im also more of an sq guy thats why i went and placed an order for a jbl gti mkII 10 yesterday
 






winning comps is a completely different story, but at that point you are spending tons of cash, more than the vehicle's worth most likely. if you need some awesome subs for 150 a piece, it doesnt get better than some type r's in my opinion. but its just my opinion. ive seen tons of people go all out on their systems and get blown out by dudes with more modest equipment who knew how to hook their stuff up, and had serious acoustic knowledge. X's are cool, im an alpine guy myself so i guess im partial, but best bang for your buck, id go type r's or JL audio. you wont even have to get a second mortgage.
 






you wont even have to get a second mortgage.

i am one of those that has to spend alot...so im guilty there lol.
if your ever in south dakota sometime hit me up ill let ya hear mine

the single most important thing people need to know is that everyone has different hearing and taste, as long as your happy dont let anyone discourage you with their two cents
 






no doubt, thanks for the offer. i always love checking out peoples setups, but im out here on the west coast. if you are serious about cars, car audio, muscle cars, imports, wheelers and everything else on 4 wheels you should move out to CA. there are car shows year round of every kind. good stuff though doing your thing out there in south dakota, its good to know that there are people out there blowing speakers up! def right about it being all taste. im more into "clean" sound myself. if you find yourself spending tons of money on car audio and have an unending appetite for getting newer and newer equipment you should apply for a part time job at a best buy or somewhere like that. you will be able to buy audio gear at wholesale price, and if you didnt know yet, a 200 dollar sub is bought at cost for about 45 to 50 bucks. decks at cost are a little closer to retail, but wiring, caps, and subs are super cheap at cost and if you work at best buy or some place like that, you will get major discounts. i did it back in my "car audio" craze. i had every new speaker, deck and all that other good stuff you could think of.
 






thanks everyone, but I'm just looking if these subs will blow up or not with my amp. I'm more looking for spl

Factory ratings:
1 x 500 Watts @ 4 ohms
1 x 1700 Watts @ 2 ohms
1 x 2200 Watts @ 1 ohms
.5 ohm stable on good electrical (14.4V)

2 x 800rms/3000peak DVC subs wired in parallel = .5OHM load
 






ifi had a good place less than an hour away i would deff be doing that lono!


to the author

i would wire them at a 2 ohm load if i were you
 






what are the ratings for exactly? anyway you can pull the specs of the amp and sub straigh from the manuals? and then how you plan to wire/bridge/split it. i think thats what you are trying to do with your last post but im still i little confused by your numbers. ill help the best i can.
 






the subs he is talking about are 800 nomial so guessing the ratings he told us i think 1700 at 2 ohms is the max power of the amp...maybe?
 






thanks 97EDB, I could do that but would really like to try and get it to .5Ohm. The amp is pretty old, and I don't have the manuals, but those are the ratings. here is the end of the amp.

abxd2000.jpg



its been running six SVC tens, wired in parallel (+ to + and - to -) to get a .66OHM load. been like that for over a year, being used every day in my tuck.

I got this from Fosgates' website to show how I'm going to wire it.

22ohmdvc05ohm.gif
 






maybe consider different subs..a half ohm with all that power will eat them up...fast look at orion hcca or anyother subs with recone kits available the 3000watt rating on the pioneers is for short bursts not much more
 






i agree with 97, you might want to look into some more versatile subs spec wise if you are trying to reach 0.5. you will literally be playing with fire! that must be a huge amp if it is powring 6 tens, either look into different subs or splitting the load with another amp if you have the room.
 






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