No fuel pump sound but cranking

[templescroll]

I read the forum posts/questions and learned some new terms:

• power train control module -PCM

• fuel pump relay

• EEC relay

• wiring harness

• cranking with no start / no CEL

• no fuel pump sound or CEL

Since my problem is definitely ONE of the above after reading the ??'s and 'replies'; how much would it cost to replace the ignition switch, PCM, fuel pump relay, EEC relay and wiring harness. Or at least check these things out. Its got to be cheaper than the several days of work I missed.
It cranks...sounds healthy but won't start-up.
This has been an intermittent problem for over 2 years.
I figured out (on my own) that when it doesn't make the 'hummm' sound when I turn on the key...it'aint gonna start...so I wait...sometimes 5 minute sometimes 45 minutes. Then I try again, hear the 'hummm' and it starts-up.
My 74 year old mechanic can't hear it though LOL!
If I do lots of errands, it seems to trigger the problem.
So, sometimes I leave the car running while I go into the grocery store...yikes So...my question is: what do I ask a mechanic to look for if I bring it somewhere else? I don't want to say "it doesn't hummmm".
P.S. Can I fix this myself?!

 

[Mudboy]

To have the psrts you mentioned replaced at a shop, I'm guessing you will be paying more than a weeks worth of work unless you are lawyer or actor or NFL player lol. Really gotta get it nailed down to the exact problem. It sort of sounds like a wiring issue to me. next time this happens. i'd leave the key in the on position and climb under the rear drivers side of the truck. if you look on the frame rail up by the shock you will see a connector, thats the connector for your fuel pump wiring harness. wiggle that and listen for your pump tyo kick on. If it doesn't I'd proceed to under the hood and wiggle tyhe harness on the passenger side fender where your fuse box is. There is also a ground for the fuel pump as well which could be corroded possibly but I do not know where it is located. A fuel pump relay could be funk like this as well. To replace it is is pretty easy with basic hand tools. My relayus on my 91 are located under the fuse box. I forget exactly how the box is held on but by looking at it you should see how to remove it top get it out of the way. you will then see the relays, I forget which one is the the fuel pump relay, but in the little owners manual that came with my truck, it shows you which ones which. The relays are cheap. Under $20 a peice.

 

[explorerjohn64]

This isn't easy. My first rule is KISS. So, next time it goes out grab your positive battery wires, at the terminal, and wiggle. They have a tendency to go bad at the battery terminal. The next point of interest would be, is there power at the pump? If there is, replace the pump. Personally, I would replace the relay first, if it's not the battery connection, because it's cheap and easy. I will say that on a blazer I owned, the ground wire at the pump was cracked and sometimes had contact, sometimes not. So the main question remains, if it's not the battery cable, is there power at the pump?

 

[templescroll]

found and fixed

I took everything you guys suggested & discussions (emails, posts, links) PRINTED IT OUT...and took them twith me to a 'new' mechanic. They hooked up a diagnostic computer to my Explorer which made me cry since this NEVER found the problem in the past but always cost me $85 bucks a shot. But after 3 good starts the issue / problem suddenly surfaced! (cranking no start) and for a mere 15 seconds ONLY! so, these 3 mechanics scrambled around checking all the items really fast...on the list; they found the culprit: intemittent connection in Fuel Pump relay, also PCM needed replacing & EEC was replaced because if was freaking old! (almost exactly what some members suggested could be the problem) thanks everyone. Cost just under $300 (w/tax & labor). The problem has not come back...its been over a week now. Cross your fingers

 

[Kamel]

Certainly glad you got it fixed... I'm curious if just a $10 relay alone wouldn't have fixed it.

I've got a 93, and it's got many parts on it that are coming up on 20 years old, but still work perfectly fine. Just replaced the stock blower motor not long ago.

 

[templescroll]

kamal

dont know about the cheaper solution...I was soooo glad to have the 3 yr problem finally fixed (lost work, stress, late appts) I was happy to pay the $$ to make it go away. LOL! PS what the heck's a blower motor!? ... i'm scared again ! )

 

[Kamel]

Lol, nothing to be scared of. Its the thing that blows the air for your ac/heater. Its easy to replace and cheap - about 30-50 depending on where you get it and if its remanufactured. If I have to do the job again, i'll do a tutorial or something

Heres the important points.

Remove air tube (thing in top front of engine)
Remove top of air intake, disconnect sensors if necessary
Remove bottom of air intake, the tube coming in just slips out with a little persuasion.
Once out, take plastic fan blade assembly off of the old one as the new one wont have one.
Old fan may have a C clip on it, I didnt put one on the new and it has worked fine so far. Your mileage may vary.

 

[templescroll]

thankees kamal

whew! sounds like I can actually fix that problem should it arise.
need the ole' gal (my FORD EXPLOER) to last another year at least...its my
4th FORD.
i want to sell it and buy a Subaru. Im not kidding...seriously...really...
i hear those Subaru's never break...what have you heard? can i even ask that ? on this site...
or will i get a ton of hate mail LOL
**my first was a 67 FORD Mustang convertible my dad bought be for my
16th birthday for $800 from some kid at my school!! then a PINTO (lol!!!) then an AEROSTAR that literally burnt to the ground when the catalytic converter caught on fire! After my Explorer goes to the big junk yard in the sky...im gonna expatriate...something foreign...don't hate me

 

[Kamel]

I personally think the quality of a car has more to do with the specific series of vehicle than the manufacturer. It's a bit silly to say that there is any car manufacturer that has made all good cars or all bad. Each have their hits and their misses. It also depends on your maintenance and well, luck. Cars are made by humans and even 2 identical cars made from the same factory from a similar time period will have some differences which will affect reliability down the road.

IMHO foreign cars aren't much different than domestic these days. After all, my explorer has 300,000 (or 400,000 -- that's up for debate, but definitely no less than 300,000) and that's more than myself or any family member has gotten out of any vehicle from any manufacturer to date.