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air conditioner

baphomet666

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Joined
November 24, 2010
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City, State
Bordeaux,FRANCE
Year, Model & Trim Level
Explorer.1994. 4WD
Hello all
today my air conditioner is dead How to check any help is welcome


- :exp::exp: -
 



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Dead as in no cold air and the compressor doesn't run I assume,as you are in France I don't know if you can do this but buy a can of R-134A with the gauge and hose on it.

Hook it up and see if there is any pressure,try to fill the system if it is low and see if the compressor kicks on.Having a cheap set of R-134A gauges makes this a lot easier.

If the compressor comes on with adding 1-2 lbs of 134 then you will need to find the leak,if not and your pressures are correct then it will be an electrical problem.Most likely the low pressure switch.A service manual in your native language is going to really help you if you can find one.:D
 






:thumbsup: Thank you very much for your advice safn1949, I'll do as you say
but I think you're right, gas is a problem because the air conditioning compressor running but no cold in the truck
 






:thumbsup: Thank you very much for your advice safn1949, I'll do as you say
but I think you're right, gas is a problem because the air conditioning compressor running but no cold in the truck

My 94 has a leak and I have to add 1-2 cans a year,I would try a can and see what happens.:D
 






Correct me if I am wrong but doesn't a 1994 still use R12 (even in Eu)? R12 and R134a should never be mixed.
 












Someone in the past switched over to R-134A as the fittings have been changed.:D

My lines are in bad shape from rust and I need to just change the lines,orifice tube,accumulator/filter and all of the o-rings.But it only costs me $18 a year to recharge it as I don't drive it much.So until I get a massive line failure it probably won't happen.
 






:bsnicker: Hey Hey, you going to the economy, a good reason ;)

- :exp::exp: -
 






i have a 94 4x4 with 114k miles on it and the air was not blowing cold enough for me so i had autozone check the pressure and it was overfilled. we let some of the freon out and it works great now. mine is R134A from the factory i assume. i just bought the vehicle from a customer that had not used it for a year. got to love bartering in this crappy economy.
 






While we're on the subject...

Hi, I'm Bill from Tampa and I have a '94 Explorer Limited with a leak in the high pressure line from the compressor. So, I have the new line and am getting ready to rent a vacuum pump and a set of gauges from a local tool rental, but have found a discrepancy in the system capacity. The tag on the evaporator housing under the hood says 1 lb. 8 oz. which comes to 24 oz. of R-134a. However, before I found that, I checked the NAPA capacities guide which states 36 oz.

Following glacier991's A/C A-Z sticky, I plan to shoot for 245 psi on the high side and 28 psi for the low side. I'll stop when I get those readings, but would really like to know which is the correct value.

Appreciate any help you can give.
Thanks, Bill
 






the capacity for a 91-94 explorer is 36 oz.

Also anyone know what the possibility of the orphus tube being gummed up and causing a massive build up of pressure on the low side is?
 












the capacity for a 91-94 explorer is 36 oz.

Also anyone know what the possibility of the orphus tube being gummed up and causing a massive build up of pressure on the low side is?

Black death will plug the orifice tube and increase the high side pressure. If the low side is high, the orifice tube is letting pressure past or through it. At least that is how I understand the high pressur e on the low side.

I know black death can really increase the high pressure as we were getting 350+psi and when I pulled the orifice tube it was covered with black goop and metal shavings.. Not good.

You should start a new thread for your issue so people can focus on your issue and get you squared away.

~Mark
 






Orifice Valve info

the capacity for a 91-94 explorer is 36 oz.

Also anyone know what the possibility of the orphus tube being gummed up and causing a massive build up of pressure on the low side is?

Thanks for the capacity response for my 94 Explorer.

Since, as I understand it, the orifice valve is actually located between the High side and the Low side, I would expect a lower low pressure reading rather than high as a clogged orifice valve would not let the refrigerant flow through or would restrict it more than usual.

I have two links that I have found very helpful. The first is http://www.ackits.com/ for parts and help and the second is http://www.autoacforum.com/ .
The forum link is a direct link to the forum pages which are also available from the first link.

Let us know what you find out.

Bill
 






Thanks for the capacity response for my 94 Explorer.

Since, as I understand it, the orifice valve is actually located between the High side and the Low side, I would expect a lower low pressure reading rather than high as a clogged orifice valve would not let the refrigerant flow through or would restrict it more than usual.

I have two links that I have found very helpful. The first is http://www.ackits.com/ for parts and help and the second is http://www.autoacforum.com/ .
The forum link is a direct link to the forum pages which are also available from the first link.

Let us know what you find out.

Bill


Np for the info and thanks for links as soon as i get my clutch bled later today im gonna pull the orphus tube and see what it looks like.
 






replacement

hello everybody

After all these explanations, I wonder if I can inject gas 12A in place of R134a in air conditioning system of my X.
I have a question for you, the two gases can be mixed I think not.
In this case how to flush the circuit to remove the remaining gas.
I found this on EBAY he seems to be compatible with the circuit of my X.
ADVANTAGE Duracool 12a: it does not require approvals all individuals and professionals alike can use this product to recharge air conditioning systems R12 or R134a

http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260751130828&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Sorry it's in French

Your advice and your help is requested
thank you all


-:exp::exp:
 






FYI: Haynes manual lists low side pressure of 22 to 50 and hi-side of 160 to 250. Refrigerant amount 2.25 lbs but does not state which refrigerant. R134a is charged at a 80% amount of R12 by weight because the molecules are smaller. A high suction pressure is either too much load as in heater is on at the same time or the compressor is not doing it job as in inefficient. A clean condenser and 80 degree day usually does not get to 248 psig hi side point so don't just charge to there, from experience. Once you have enough refrigerant in the system to get a solid line from the filter drier the rest piles in the filter drier. A plugged orifice will lower the suction pressure not increase it. We purge with dry nitrogen when working on systems. The recovery machines will pull all the gas as in refrigerant out but not remove any moisture that has accumulated. A vacuum pump and a micron gauge pulling the sytem down below 1000 microns and 500 is even better, will get the moisture out. There are a few refrigerants that do not require changing the oil like the one you found, R414b also works. 134a should have the oil changed. Best way is to recover what is left, fix the system, vacuum and the charge by weight. All charging by pressures is guessing.
 






FYI: Haynes manual lists low side pressure of 22 to 50 and hi-side of 160 to 250. Refrigerant amount 2.25 lbs but does not state which refrigerant. R134a is charged at a 80% amount of R12 by weight because the molecules are smaller. A high suction pressure is either too much load as in heater is on at the same time or the compressor is not doing it job as in inefficient. A clean condenser and 80 degree day usually does not get to 248 psig hi side point so don't just charge to there, from experience. Once you have enough refrigerant in the system to get a solid line from the filter drier the rest piles in the filter drier. A plugged orifice will lower the suction pressure not increase it. We purge with dry nitrogen when working on systems. The recovery machines will pull all the gas as in refrigerant out but not remove any moisture that has accumulated. A vacuum pump and a micron gauge pulling the sytem down below 1000 microns and 500 is even better, will get the moisture out. There are a few refrigerants that do not require changing the oil like the one you found, R414b also works. 134a should have the oil changed. Best way is to recover what is left, fix the system, vacuum and the charge by weight. All charging by pressures is guessing.

:confused: Hello Vacdaddyt
thank you for your reply unfortunately a little trouble understanding you the translator of google comes out sometimes not a good translation.
to simpler can you tell me how purged the circuit is or if I can mix the two gases.
anyway I feel that my circuit is empty because when the A / C works it is only heat.
Thank you for your advice
;)
-:exp::exp:
 






We pressurize the sytem with an inert gas called dry nitrogen which is compressed in the cylinder that we purchase it in. The dry nitrogen will sweep the system of gasses. The dry nitrogen is released to the atmosphere because it is a natural gas in the air, it is also E.P.A. approved. The vacuum pump will also pull any gas out if the nitrogen is not available so there is no mixing of the gasses when you charge. Charging by weight is the best, do not add oil if you did not change the oil.
 



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