Betty's "I want to be a mule" progress log thread | Page 5 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Betty's "I want to be a mule" progress log thread

The new turd mobile. 2000 Mountaineer v8 awd.



The bad:

Was living it's prior life on a dusty road. Must tear out interior and deep clean.
Driver window off track "or something" and will not roll down. It tries but the rear part wants to stay up.

3 out of 4 door handles have issues. I have 4 new outer handles on order.
Cracked passenger side tail light housing. ( Ebay for some cool tail lights)

Compass-Thermometer thingy lit up and went out--idunno bout that yet

Door locks seem sticky, probably has to do with the handles.
It has a funky purple color trim with red metallic ( you'll have that every now and then) :(

The good
Gas tank was full
109k miles
I am the 2nd owner!!
Is from the local area, which means no salt!
The undercarriage is fairly clean
No dents to underside panels
Good rubber
Camber shims already installed
Looks like good service records, all recalls were completed.
Clean carfax believe it or not.

The "maybe" bad

The original owner, told the dealership it had a bad "heater core" however I have run it for several cycles, over an hour each idling in the driveay and see no leaks.
However, there was evidence of a windshield leak or the like,I saw condensation on the inside of the windows this AM. The moisture smell is that of water only-no anti freeze smell. I am thinking it could also be a cowl drain which is clogged???? but she did say the passenger carpet got wet.

I tried to get heat, however it is an auto climate control. Being 90 degrees outside, I doubt it would have given me heat.The heater core hoses were hot, and the coolant bypass valve does operate. AC blows Ice cold.

Maybe she meant to say "heater door"???

Anyway--here are the pics.



My intent is to drive this and use it as a tow rig for a light weight off road toy. Mods will be minimal. Edit: This plan did not work out so on to plan "b"

Current visual status

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Progress pictures
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042.jpg

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Now, let's clean it up a little


Herculine'rd rocker panels. Rock sliders installed

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BW 4406 True 4x4 Manual transfer case ( AKA Mouse entry point) installed 8-27-2012
Installed newer Tcase from a 2003 11-14-15

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Saw a rainbow in Colorado so yeah, time for a picture
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And here she is, on top of the highest pass road in North America. Careful tire placement a must!!!
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2-2-2013

Changed "color scheme" of the Dick Cepek DC1 wheels. New Falken Wildpeak AT 31x1050x15

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Then I decided Maroon washer on the wheels would look better

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Update 6-6-2013

New bumpers, winch and Pro LED light . Front Bumper from RLC, Skid plate from RCI, rear bumper from Kert307


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Rear anti sway disconnects

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Update 9-2-2014
A cracked radiator at 70mph led to engine failure. Replaced with a freshened up a bit 80k mile engine starting on page 23

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Found another rainbow in Kansas.

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Speed has everything to do with fuel economy. Joe, you guys drive 80 mph on the interstate, I think this kills your economy.
If I remember correctly the optimal speed range for fuel efficiency is 55-65mph. Helps if you draft behind a truck too :D
 



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Jon- you should run some tests on the highway using your instant- run, like, from 55-80 at 1mph increments and chart the results- might be interesting reading... :thumbsup:

Is someone channeling Al today? :p:
 






Not much to report here.

Today I replaced the 5 factory original shocks with Monroe Reflex up front, and Monroe sensa trac load adjust on the rear. Not to sure if I like the additional stiffness to the coilovers though. Also replaced the 5th shock with a monroe.

While i had the front unloaded I found the passenger side hub to be bad. I will get one ordered tonight.
 












Price is decent. I was able to replace mine with a Ford OEM part which was made by Timken I believe.
 






Well,
Although the SKF hub did indeed have timkin bearings in it, they assembled it wrong and I could feel definite out of round bearings inside making a thud feel as I tried turning it by hand.

Luckily my friends new Timkin brand hubs also arrived today, and yeah they are good.

I also noted the skf ( or whoever actually sold it thru amazon) packed it poorly and bolts were loose inside the outer packing box. Poor quality control from beginning to end. What is our country coming to????

KInda looked like it had been returned already, so I wrote defective all over the hub and box with a permanent marker --:D


I'm not going to mess around, I learned my lesson and will just order a Timkin brand and be done.

This one was priced higher than a Timkin, was supposed to be a 275.00 hub with a discounted 110.00 price. Advertised as being made by " the company that developed the unitized hub"

Go figure----
 






That is odd. SKF is one of the top of the line bearing manufacturers.
 






Too bad on the hub Jon. Hope the tooth is better.
 












Onto yet again, another project I see.. How's life been Jon?
 






Onto yet again, another project I see.. How's life been Jon?

I can't complain as much as Ben so I'd say good. How have you been?
 






How much researching/hunting did you do for the hubs? I'm still wanting to find a company who can assemble them to order from the start. I need to specify special ARP studs for it, longer than stock.
 






Used to be a guy I knew who would check each bearing by feel. Sent many a new bearing back. Even the ones by the "good" places. He used to work at the same off road shop I did. He's now the servive manager at a major dealership. He set up a rear gear for me and rebuilt a trans for me. Some folks just have the feel for stuff. Kind of like algebra. Some folks kin see it, others just cain't. Even the best have trouble every now and the. Many times this comes from a parts discounter. Had trouble with a no spin unit from a major wholesaler. Had been returned and was packaged wrong on the return and shipment to me. Wholesaler did not have another but I contacted the mfg. and they sent me out a replacement part asap. So I am a life long fan of the mfg. but not of thr wholesaler.
 






Well, We got the new Timken hubs today, and an email from amazon stating they received, and credited my account for the bad one.

If I can muster it I'll try to throw em on right quick. I need to get over to Gmanpaint's territory soon.


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Add Puff to the leaking timing cover list. :(

She's been leaving a tiny little green spot which moves depending on how she is parked, incline or level. On the inclined driveway it is dripping off the bank 2 cat-on level garage floor it drips where a water pump would drip. Which is why I ordered a water pump.

Well, she wouldn't leak when I looked for it, only when I turned my back. Seems like only upon a cold start, or after cooling and sitting for a while, and giving the sweet odor of coolant whenever she is shut down and parked. Tonight I crawled under and looked hard after everything had a chance to cool again ( the leak was eveaporating dry when the engine was warm) and caught the trail going down to the oil pan on the passenger side of the engine.

Blah--tine for a teardown I reckon. Good times
 






Bummer. I hate leaks. Hopefully not a huge project.
 









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Well, I got the water pump off. A couple of those long studs were pretty well seized up and I knew it was bad news to break one so they needed some coaxing.

Annnnd, guess what? The 2 to passenger side, on either side of the timing cover coolant passage,( right where the leak is) were pretty loose loose, which makes me wonder if I just throw a pump back on and get it tight it would hold. I really do not want to pop the timing cover if I don't have to. I should start a poll---:D


Thoughts?
 






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