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Strut replacement howto (rear)

pickupman

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September 1, 2004
Messages
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City, State
Cedar Rapids, IA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 XLT
Well, like many others, I had cracked springs... or at least one... so I decided to replace them.

here's the basic instructions I used:

natedoggaz said:
1 - remove tire
2 - disconnect the stabilizer bar link at the lower control arm
3 - remove the bolt from the lower control arm to the knuckle
4 - remove the 3 nuts at the top of the strut (not a lot of room but not bad)
5 - remove the bolt at the bottom of the strut
6 - push the lower control arm down as far as it will go
7 - remove the strut

i decided it needed pictures.


https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/UszCCHk7zzbGm4gwl7oX09XTgo3doEoFOgAP3IZ1Ldc?feat=directlink
UszCCHk7zzbGm4gwl7oX09XTgo3doEoFOgAP3IZ1Ldc


First - there are SEVEN bolts (or nuts) that need to be removed:
3 - top of the strut
1 - bottom of the strut
1 - control arm to knuckle
1 - sway bar
1 - toe link

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/YCGndEcxNcJEPMxv8p7jmtXTgo3doEoFOgAP3IZ1Ldc?feat=directlink
YCGndEcxNcJEPMxv8p7jmtXTgo3doEoFOgAP3IZ1Ldc


the strut bolts are obvious (what and why)

The control arm to knuckle bolt is REQUIRED to be removed - this allows for the control arm to drop enough to get the strut out... the moron typing this wasn't sure what the control arm was - "control" didn't really seem like a smaller part than what it was - it's the large frame that the strut seats into...

the bolt in question is in the center of this photo

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/FsynUbh_LfCbBh45a_-YG9XTgo3doEoFOgAP3IZ1Ldc?feat=directlink
FsynUbh_LfCbBh45a_-YG9XTgo3doEoFOgAP3IZ1Ldc



sway bar bolt: note that this is a LONG bolt with a rubber boot over it... the bolt head is on the bottom of the control arm - need a wrench on the top nut while loosening the bolt


https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/n32HvLpylC85SKy6mXhYfdXTgo3doEoFOgAP3IZ1Ldc?feat=directlink
n32HvLpylC85SKy6mXhYfdXTgo3doEoFOgAP3IZ1Ldc




the toe link... may not be necessary, but it makes life A LOT easier - gives a convenient spot to put a pipe to wrench the control arm down down
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/XnEeJs3w8KBMDMQW05PM49XTgo3doEoFOgAP3IZ1Ldc?feat=directlink
XnEeJs3w8KBMDMQW05PM49XTgo3doEoFOgAP3IZ1Ldc


https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/I6pweCXpc2OZRyLeD84LxdXTgo3doEoFOgAP3IZ1Ldc?feat=directlink
I6pweCXpc2OZRyLeD84LxdXTgo3doEoFOgAP3IZ1Ldc




All in all, it took 2 hours because we couldn't figure out what parts were what... two guys and a lift could have had it done in half an hour with the appropriate sockets, air ratchet, a couple crescent wrenches, a pipe (breaker bar and to wrench the control arm down), and a prybar....
 



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Pictures weren't showing up. Fixed it for you.........

Well, like many others, I had cracked springs... or at least one... so I decided to replace them.

here's the basic instructions I used:



i decided it needed pictures.

before.jpg



First - there are SEVEN bolts (or nuts) that need to be removed:
3 - top of the strut
1 - bottom of the strut
1 - control arm to knuckle
1 - sway bar
1 - toe link

bolts.jpg



the strut bolts are obvious (what and why)

The control arm to knuckle bolt is REQUIRED to be removed - this allows for the control arm to drop enough to get the strut out... the moron typing this wasn't sure what the control arm was - "control" didn't really seem like a smaller part than what it was - it's the large frame that the strut seats into...

the bolt in question is in the center of this photo

knuckle.jpg




sway bar bolt: note that this is a LONG bolt with a rubber boot over it... the bolt head is on the bottom of the control arm - need a wrench on the top nut while loosening the bolt

swaybar.jpg




the toe link... may not be necessary, but it makes life A LOT easier - gives a convenient spot to put a pipe to wrench the control arm down down

tierodends.jpg


tieroddown.jpg




All in all, it took 2 hours because we couldn't figure out what parts were what... two guys and a lift could have had it done in half an hour with the appropriate sockets, air ratchet, a couple crescent wrenches, a pipe (breaker bar and to wrench the control arm down), and a prybar....
 






thanks!

was gonna re-host the photos and fix them today...

now... i think the fronts are my next target... they're squeaking!
 






you can take out the caliper instead of the tie rod. There's lot of space to move the strut out and back in even with the tie rod in place. It's also easier to deal with the caliper than pounding out the tie rod.



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