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broke lug studs

explorer redneck

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City, State
oldfort nc
Year, Model & Trim Level
99 xlt
i have a 99 xplorer. snaped off all 5 lugs on the rear. do u have to pull the axle shaft to change the lugs or can it be done with out pulling the shaft?
 



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i have a 99 xplorer. snaped off all 5 lugs on the rear. do u have to pull the axle shaft to change the lugs or can it be done with out pulling the shaft?


Pulling the axle will let you hammer them. Otherwise you can get them in with
the hub still on the car. See this post for more details

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=182346

Just be careful if you decide to use the lug on the stud and pulling it in when tightening it. You can pull the threads apart pretty easily and ruin the stud you worked so hard to get back in.
 






To do it right, the axle has to come out so the new studs can be PRESSED in. If you pull the studs in with the lug nuts, you will be sorry.
 












how hard is it to pull the shaft? thanks
Pretty simple. Remove the cover (don't forget the drain pan). Pull the spyder shaft retaining bolt. Pull the spyder shaft, it should slide right out. Push in on the offending axle with your foot, and remove the C-clip from the inside end. Pull the axle out. The hardest, most time consuming part of the whole deal is removing the cover. IIRC, the spyder shaft retaining bolt needs a 5/16" box end wrench. Try to use anything else, and you'll be going to Ford for a new bolt after you've rounded off the head and it's still stuck there. Don't ask me how I know this.
 






I think there should also be a warning about removing the axle in the same vain... "if you don't do it right, you will be sorry". I think that the linked thread to the "pull in method" of stud replacement is a good diy'er technique that is commonly used. A DIY'er going into axle removal is a scary thought... at least to me. Personally, I would do one stud first and see how things go. You can always "back track" and pull the axle any time... :)
 






I think there should also be a warning about removing the axle in the same vain... "if you don't do it right, you will be sorry". I think that the linked thread to the "pull in method" of stud replacement is a good diy'er technique that is commonly used. A DIY'er going into axle removal is a scary thought... at least to me. Personally, I would do one stud first and see how things go. You can always "back track" and pull the axle any time... :)
I have personally replaced studs before by pulling them in with the lug nuts. Just be sure to use a couple flat washers, grade 8 is best, and plenty of lube. An air wrench comes in handy to do this. If an air wrench isn't an option, just use a 1/2" breaker bar. Be sure you get the new stud started correctly. Don't screw up the splines in the hub.
 






Be sure you get the new stud started correctly. Don't screw up the splines in the hub.
That's the most important thing when you try to pull the new stud in...
Maybe freezing the stud while puling would be a good thing (cold will shrink it) - I didn't got to test it thou (no broken studs yet).
 






I think there should also be a warning about removing the axle in the same vain... "if you don't do it right, you will be sorry". I think that the linked thread to the "pull in method" of stud replacement is a good diy'er technique that is commonly used. A DIY'er going into axle removal is a scary thought... at least to me. Personally, I would do one stud first and see how things go. You can always "back track" and pull the axle any time... :)
No question that it's a common DIY technique, I've done it myself when time was tight. And it's the method most shops will use as well, cuz they can, not because it's the right way to do it. However, if the thought of pulling an axle is that daunting, then I'd question whether stud replacement is something that any particular DIY'er should be doing in the first place, as it's so easy to pull the axle and press them in to begin with. You also get the advantage of being able to inspect/clean out the rear end this way, and put fresh lube in, which most people never do.
 












You also get the advantage of being able to inspect/clean out the rear end this way, and put fresh lube in, which most people never do.

On the limited slip rear end you are not supposed to change the fluid... unless you got it submerged.
 












Pretty simple. Remove the cover (don't forget the drain pan). Pull the spyder shaft retaining bolt. Pull the spyder shaft, it should slide right out. Push in on the offending axle with your foot, and remove the C-clip from the inside end. Pull the axle out. The hardest, most time consuming part of the whole deal is removing the cover. IIRC, the spyder shaft retaining bolt needs a 5/16" box end wrench. Try to use anything else, and you'll be going to Ford for a new bolt after you've rounded off the head and it's still stuck there. Don't ask me how I know this.
I think you probably forgot to quote the "torque spec"... you wouldn't want things to fly apart on your rear end while your wheel studs still held nice and true because you did them "right".... but then most DIY'ers would probably know those off by heart along with draining the pan.... :)
 






Can't be givin' all the secrets, can we? ;)
 












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