Camshaft Position Sensor replacement--a bit of discussion

[Turdle]

Hi turdle,i see you have a lot of experience with cam sensors.I have read the posts.I have a book on my 98 mercury 5.0 as well.I have been trying for weeks to re-align the sensor because it had gone bad.I have tryed 30 different positions and can't hit it by accident.I have done everything by the book.The only thing that does not jive is tdc does not match the mark on the harmonic balancer.I can visiualy verify tdc without a problem,but it is about 60 degrees away from the sensor mark on the harmonic balancer,this has to be the problem.What should i do?The truck has a lot of miles on it,240k.Could thier be that much slack?Any help would be much appreciated!

It could be that the harmonic balancer has "slipped" from the crank pulley, as they are a 2 piece unit with a rubber internal hub holding them tightly together. Mine had slipped in my original engine. I needed a new unit anyway for various reasons so it didn't matter but I did make a note of it. Mine was probably 10-20 degrees off from consulting the photo in my head.

There is probably little mis alignment due to timing chain stretch also.

If I remember correctly the crankshaft timing sprocket key-way faces straight up when #1 is at tdc. So, you might want to pull the pulley off, check the actual crank position and compare it to the crank sensor trigger and timing mark. Let us know what you see.



edit-Don beat me to it in other words--lol

 

[tavo123]

You got it.
I wasn't trying to confuse, but this subject creates a paranoia in me!!
I refer to the shaft and stator as a synch drive unit, the plastic sensor that screws to the top is actually the sensor. The part that needs alinged, or synched, is the shaft assembly. You definitely know what to do.
That's why I don't sell for a living, I don't know when to shut up!!!!
Now go drive that thing!![/QU hey if the syncronizer is faulty would it come out on the troubleshoot codes? Cause on mine it doesnt it makes that dam noise when i start it cold and most of the time it has a hard time turning on plz help
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[Turdle]

The noise is from the bearings in the sync shaft. This will not usually set a code until binding or "wandering" occurs knocking out either the sensor or the drive gear.

The squeak is a warning that the bearings are not true

 

[Brandon96]

While digging around for old info, this is the closest I could find;

I'm going to need to install mine in this weekend however, I have the 4.0 ohv, not the 5-0. To what direction is my alignment tool supposed to face? Is it still supposed to point straight forward down the block towards Cyl #1?

Mine is located at the very back of the motor behind Cyl #3 on the passenger side.

 

[Nick122308]

Help

I have just replaced the synchronizer myself, did everything by the book but when i drive on highway doesnt seem to have much power and kind of cuts out especially going up hills.

 

[manny951]

i need help im doing a engine swap on my brothers inlaw explorer 4.0 and when i lifted the engine part the plastic piece ontop of the camshaft position broke the whole bottom unit was working fine my question is where do i get this plastic piece and the tool to align it went to rockauto but canot find anything can u guys point me to the right direction please

 

[Turdle]

i need help im doing a engine swap on my brothers inlaw explorer 4.0 and when i lifted the engine part the plastic piece ontop of the camshaft position broke the whole bottom unit was working fine my question is where do i get this plastic piece and the tool to align it went to rockauto but canot find anything can u guys point me to the right direction please

Which year please? 93 ( non california) and earlier do not need an electrical connected sensor. If it is a CA 93 or 94 you will probably need to go to the dealership to get one.

 

[manny951]

Which year please? 93 ( non california) and earlier do not need an electrical connected sensor. If it is a CA 93 or 94 you will probably need to go to the dealership to get one.

its and 1993 ford explorer but the engine he bought came off a 94 cant i just go to the junk yard and get t his piece i need?

 

[Turdle]

Did the 93 have this sensor wired in? if not, no worries, the sensor part is not needed. All that is needed is the drive unit for oil pump drive.

If it is wired in, then use the sensor out of the 93.

Edit, it may help to forget which year the engine "came out of" and focus on the year it is "going in to". You need to satisfy the 93 pcm. Does the truck you are putting the engine into have egr?

 

[manny951]

Did the 93 have this sensor wired in? if not, no worries, the sensor part is not needed. All that is needed is the drive unit for oil pump drive.

If it is wired in, then use the sensor out of the 93.

Edit, it may help to forget which year the engine "came out of" and focus on the year it is "going in to". You need to satisfy the 93 pcm. Does the truck you are putting the engine into have egr?

the 93 did have the wire harness plug into this camshaft position sensor i had to unlick it to take out the engine it was a 4x4l ive never worked on a ford and this one gave me hell i had to leave the transmission on and remove everything on my only mistake is i that i think the top of the sensor hit on the firewall and cracked i ordered a replacement on amazon but it wasn't it

 

[manny951]

do i need to align it? still?

 

[blazin8556]

have the dorman sensors gotten any better, i just ordered one and then read this post. if they are still junk ill return it and go to ford tomorrow.

 

[ronsdeal]

changing the roll pins

Hello
If I would purchase the inferior Doorman unit, could I drift out the pins on the Motorcraft, [original] unit and press them into the Doorman unit?
Any thoughts are appreciated.
Thanks
Ron

 

[Turdle]

Hello
If I would purchase the inferior Doorman unit, could I drift out the pins on the Motorcraft, [original] unit and press them into the Doorman unit?
Any thoughts are appreciated.
Thanks
Ron

That is what I would be tempted to do. The pin seems to be the weak point.

 

[CDW6212R]

Hello
If I would purchase the inferior Doorman unit, could I drift out the pins on the Motorcraft, [original] unit and press them into the Doorman unit?
Any thoughts are appreciated.
Thanks
Ron

That is what I would be tempted to do. The pin seems to be the weak point.

It's an interesting thought, but what if part of the problem is manufacturing quality? What if the roll pin hole location is not ideal, or the wrong size etc? I bought a new OEM unit for $110 or so IIRC, from Tasca Ford.

 

[KK0601]

Hey Turdle

Where is the alignment tool supposed to be pointing? I am working 97 Ford Taurus - CANNOT figure it out.

 

[meunier#1]

I was wondering if anyone would know I'd the sensor would work with an older mmodel block swap? The block is to my knowledge from a 73 maverick

 

[CDW6212R]

It will work in any 302 block. There is a V6 version from a 3.8 or 4.2, and some people have modified those to work in a 351W block.


FYI, I did just learn this week that the 99-01 three wire Explorer synchronizer will produce the required signal for a 99+ PCM. Thus you can use a 99+ Mustang V8 PCM to control a SBF, such as a swap project to an older car. I'm not planning to use that, but it's interesting to know. The 99+ models have COP ignition, instead of coil packs.

 

[noahrl]

My long story short is: Have code P0340. Replaced sensor, replaced alt (tested bad), and code reappeared after clearing. Took it to the shop. They said could be the synchronizer but they could not be certain because the problem was intermittent. They would charge $700 to replace it so I'm doing it myself. I have it torn down and removed the old synchro. However, everything looks ok.

Is it possible for everything to look normal but the syncro or sensor still be faulty?
What else should I test or check will I have everything apart?
What would be the best way to test the sensor wiring?
Thanks in advance for any help!!

 

[fropiler]

Did you save the stock oil pump drive shaft? It needs to mesh with the whole mess also, You'll feel it.

Hmmm... is it possible that this is why my new synch is not seating properly?