Pulled the codes and fixed a few things

[JoshC]

I had codes P0300 and P0316. After some research on here I decided to replace the spark plugs and wires since they had 119K miles on them, needed done anyways. The truck had sit for a day or so when I installed them, so the first time it cranked up it was cold and with new plugs/wires. It started and ran like a champ. That was last night. This morning it's back to running pretty rough at cold idle. Put it into reverse and the combo of the ridiculous pressure on the gas petal and rough idle, it lunges into motion. Backing out of the driveway it doesn't run good at all. In drive, it does OK, taking off again is a bit rough, but it runs fine.

Little history-I had a tranny problem, took it into the shop and while it was there I asked the mechanic about the rough idle. At that time it was just a slight rough idle. Ford mechanic said, and I quote, "Ford invented the rough idle." Well, thanks, that got me the info I needed to fix the problem....:shifty_ey Took it to a tranny shop and had the tranny rebuilt. When I picked it up the mechanic told me it had a bad miss and that it needed to be looked at. He wasn't lying. If you were to have watched the tach, you'd think he swapped in a V8 with big cam. Got it home (ran fine on the trip home) and my wife got stranded with it, wouldn't start. Got it back home and discovered those two codes.

So, what's next? In a nut shell, new plugs and wires, still have a rough idle and a hard time getting it to take off in either direction. And right now there are no codes. Hate for the wife and kids to get stranded again.

 

[Exproblems]

I had codes P0300 and P0316. >>>>>>>>>>>>>
So, what's next? >>>>>>>>>>>>>

If these codes are from your 04 EB V-6, the Haynes manual says that code #PO300 is: Random/multiple cylinder misfire detected and code # PO316 is: Misfire detected during startup-first 1000 revolutions. Since you replaced the plugs and wires already, I would have the "coil pack" checked out next. I would also clean up the other tune up things like MAF sensor, throttle body, check PCV valve etc and replace fuel filter if needed. Make sure you use the correct, specific spray cleaner for the MAF and Throttle body. They each use their own specific type of cleaner, sold in parts stores.

 

[JoshC]

It is, I forgot to throw that in. Glad you figured it out.

My next step was to clean the TB. Last night my wife called and said the check engine light came on, but was still running ok. I was glad, that way I could see what was going on. It was a P0506. I cleaned the throttle body and then drove it for a little bit and no light. I think today I'll pick up some cleaner for the MAS like you said. Wonder if I ought to pickup a coil pack as well?

 

[Exproblems]

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Last night my wife called and said the check engine light came on, but was still running ok. I was glad, that way I could see what was going on. It was a P0506.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Code P0506 is :Idle control system, rpm lower than expected.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I think today I'll pick up some cleaner for the MAS like you said. Wonder if I ought to pickup a coil pack as well?>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

For the MAF sensor, becareful with it, don't drop it. Those little sensor wires inside of it are touchy. Read the directions label on the MAF cleaner can, it tells you how to clean it and how far away to hold the spray nozzle from the sensor wires. About a foot. The spray cleaner dries fairly fast. Once it is clean and dry (make sure it's dry before energizing the ignition), re-connect it and take it for a test ride so the computer can reset itself to the new readings it will get from the cleaned sensor. I take my truck out on a short drive on the Thruway and get it up to 75mph. Do the same after a throttle body cleaning as well. On the coil pack, I wouldn't buy one unless you definately need one. Why throw money away on something you don't need or are sure needs changing? Get a mechanic to test it for you first and see what he says. Not sure if parts stores can test coil packs for free, maybe check with one. They do test alternators, starters and batteries.

 

[JoshC]

Thank you for the info.

I drove the truck for a while today. The farther I got the better it drove. the MAS was pretty nasty, so it was overdue for a cleaning-my bad! Runs like a top now! Thanks to all for your help.

One last question, I've never noticed this till now but will the PCM not allow the motor to rev over 3200RPM while in park?

 

[Exproblems]

Thank you for the info.

I drove the truck for a while today. The farther I got the better it drove. the MAS was pretty nasty, so it was overdue for a cleaning-my bad! Runs like a top now!>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

If the MAF sensor was that dirty, maybe check the air filter while you are at it. I switched to a K&N drop in air filter. They cost more ($56 at Advance auto parts), but last forever. Just clean and re-oil them periodically. You can get a $20 off coupon on an order over $50 to use at Advance auto parts web site to order this air filter at www. couponcabin.com, so you can get the K&N filter for around $36 actual cost.

>>>>>>>>>>>>One last question, I've never noticed this till now but will the PCM not allow the motor to rev over 3200RPM while in park?>>>>>>>>>>>>

Don't know anything about that, never rev'd the truck up that high in park. Probably not a good thing to do to the engine anyhow.

 

[imp]

If the trouble returns, the cleaning may have taken care of a multi-problem. I had a similar issue with cold start/run with a '98 Explorer, V-6 OHC, no trouble codes. Fuel pressure checked low (20 psi) at the fuel rail, started hard, ran rough, got better in a minute, OK driving average speeds. Finally, one morning, no start. No fuel pressure. Replaced fuel filter. No fuel pressure. Pump could be heard running normally in tank, drew proper amount of current.

Long story shorter, dropped tank, removed pump. Found the nylon foot strainer had come with a corrugated sort of inner liner, looked like paper, had softened, pulped up, and been drawn into pump inlet, blocking fuel flow, partially when the damn thing still ran, but now completely, no start. Pump replacement fixed it completely. It seemed none of that **** found it's way beyond the pump.

Thought I'd seen it all! (WRONG!) imp

 

[JoshC]

Wow, that is a troubleshooting nightmare!

 

[imp]

Wow, that is a troubleshooting nightmare!

Oh, I can remember even stranger things, after almost 60 years of this messing around! One was, in the old days, the Borg-Warner heavy-duty 3-speeds used by Ford behind mostly the bigger engines (some came equipped with a mechanical planetary overdrive unit), now and then became "locked" in either
2nd or 3rd gear. Most places were baffled by this. What happened was, as the synchros wore out, clearance increased beween them and the driven member, which allowed one of the 3 little metal inserts which were there to push the bronze ring up against the cone on the driving gear, to pop up out of their slot, and block the sliding shift collar from moving out of 2nd, or 3rd.

If the guy had installed a heavy-duty Hurst floor shift, often they "animalled" it hard enough to shear off the end of the insert, which if lucky, fell to the bottom, and drove happily on, shifting with only 2 doing the job. Column shift, no prayer of that, you were stuck in one gear!

I talk too much, off topic. Sorry, guys! imp