2008 Head Gasket

[stuartr]

I think they already know I am not a push over. So where can I get a copy of the "warr. agreement" That is a great idea. Anytime you can be one up on them, you are better off. I think that since they put the heads on under warr. the block will have to be as well. How can you tell me it was but now it isn't, when it is the same issue. I think they have already set a answer to live by for themselves. Thanks for the tips, wood1. I will look into that.
STU

 

[stuartr]

Well I supposed to go get it tomorrow. They said it was a heater hose leaking coolant into the motor? Is that possible? I have such a bad feeling about this thing now. I think am going to trade it and stay away from Ford. The service sucks.
Stu

 

[wood1]

I would ask someone that has rebuilt one. I don't know the SOHC well.

You have had the worst time with this dealership... could be they simply misdiagnosed your issue initially.

 

[stuartr]

That is what I am thinking Wood1. I got it today, the serv. manager said that it was a clamp broke where the coolant goes up into the rear heating core. It is right above the rear exhaust pipe. They said it was leaking down on the pipe rather than coming out of the pipe. Not sure if I am buying all this or not. I hope this is alll over really tired of fooling with it. Thanks for the help again.
Stu

 

[wood1]

Wow.

Just wow.

Could very well be that clamp. Drive it and find out.

Edit: Shouldn't be like that I guess, we all make mistakes. If it was just that clamp, you should be good to go.

 

[stuartr]

Update: The Mounty is still smelling like burning oil doesn't appear to be loosing any according to the dipstick but the smell is quite strong. It is really bad if the motor is good and hot and you stop with the AC on. If you are in it a bit it kinda will give you a headache it is so strong. I have driven it quite a bit since they put the motor back in and if it was just a little on something from the reassembly I would think it would be gone by now. All I know is it didn't stink when I took it up there and it does now. I am taking it back on Monday for them to fix it. I have waited long enough for it to quit. I am getting kinda ticked about all this. If they don't want to fix it they can buy the POS off of me. I won't keep it like it is.
Stu

 

[stuartr]

Update again! I didn't get time to take it in for the smell but yesterday it finally made it a have to case. My wife was driving it and it started pouring the smoke. So she took it to the dealer "again" 4th time. They haven't let me know anything yet though. I counted it up they have had it 66 days total now and this has been going on since Feb.23rd. This is poor service.
Stu

 

[cosmo993]

Working on my 2008 Explorer 4.0L V6 to fix cooling leak at head gasket. I have everything apart down to the camshaft. I bought the spring compressor tool/rocker arm removal tool and just removed the rocker arms. I backed out the bolt that its on its side through the head to release the tension on the chain tensioner. I the removed the bearing caps to release the camshaft.

My problem: I can't seem to provide enough chain lift so that I can remove the camshaft. What is the procedure to complete the camshaft removal so that I can remove the head (passenger side)? Do I have to remove the sprocket that sits up against thee firewall end of the engine? I haven't attempted to remove the 3/4 inch bolt that seems to be holding the chain sprocket to the camshaft.....does that have to come off? It is a bear to reach with ratchet since clearance is tight with AC lines running along the firewall....better type wrench to use?.......and not sure if bolt is traditional 'lefty-loosey" or is threaded opposite maybe to work with, not against, the cam rotation.

Appreciate any help!

Craig

 

[Tech By Trade]

Nice Resurrection,


Break out your wallet because you need another tool. Look up the OTC 4.0l SOHC timing kit. it will run you around 200 beans. First you need to pull the tensioner on the side of the head to free up the cassette. Next you need to pull the gear off the cam, the right/passenger side is left hand thread. There is a tool in the kit that makes pulling the gear much easier. Then the head should pop out. Careful nothing falls down in there or you need to pull the engine to get it out. Then you need to do the timing procedure when you install the head. Check out my cam chain casset saga over in the sport trac thread to find out more about this high quality marvel of engineering they call the 4.0l dohc. Good luck

 

[cosmo993]

Thanks for the response. I discovered after my post that I need the Ford Cam Kit 6488. Found on Amazon and it's on the way. Comes with all the tools to lock the Cam in position and special offset tool to take out the cassette sprocket bolt.
If cam is immobilized and locked in place (kit has tool that locks front of cam to valve cover holes in head), does setting chain down to remove head change the timing? Isn't Cam position what counts, not position of cam chain? I expect that I would have to tie up the chain to keep it from falling down the block and possibly falling off lower main timing gear......and hold that chain with an extra hand while I lift head off block.

 

[Tech By Trade]

you need to remove the gear altogether to get the head off. If you throw an elastic band around the chain and cassette at the top it should hold it. It shouldnt fall off the bottom gear. Make sure you have the engine at TDC on cyl 1.
There are no timing marks on the cam so the timing completly depends on the gear and the tools. you set the crank to tdc on 1, and lock it in place with one of the tools, then you put pressure on the chain Cassette using the jig so that it goes to the point it would at TDC on 1. Next there is a tool that goes in between the 2 slots in the front of the cam to hold it at TDC 1. Then the tool goes on the gear at the back to hold it at TDC on 1. then when you tighten that bolt to 45lbs using the tool everything should be timed at TDC on 1. Look up streetrod2000's timing guide. The ford manuals can all be seen on EBSCO Host website. the password and username are both tech.

 

[cosmo993]

Thank you for the quick response and pointers. I'll take a look over the data you provided and plan my steps. Tool kit arrives tomorrow but I'll probably not dive in until Saturday.