How to: 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary

[RJL88]

5R55E Pan

Hello All, New guy here and have been reading all of the posts regarding this trans issue and one question that maybe someone can answer is how the heck can it be determined if you have the "Low Pan" or the "Deep Pan" on the 4X4 version of the 5R55E? Or is it common practice to buy both and return the one you didn't need?

 

[wood1]

If it's like the A4LD the deep version is the 4X4, shallow is 2WD

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, typically the 4WD is still called the deep pan. Ford changed things in the mid 90's. They began adding a tiny annoying bump to the bottom of a "shallow" pan, and used a deeper filter/pickup for that, and made that the 4WD pan.

Typically an aftermarket pan will always be flat on the bottom, and the depth will match the filter/pickup used. Thus a shallow pan will use a 2WD filter, and deeps pans take the 4WD filter.

These are generalities, every trans may be different. I speak mainly from knowing the AOD/AODE/4R70W pans. I have an aftermarket deep pan for my 98 AWD truck, and it's the same depth as the stock pan, yet holds 2 quarts more ATF.

 

[BK_89iX]

Forgive me if this info is already in the mega thread!

The 5R55E is working fine in my 95k mile '97 XLT 4x4 with tow package, but I'm planning some light/moderate towing duty next year and want to prepare. Recent 180mile trial run with the 2,000lb 6x10 enclosed trailer went well.

Does the rebuilt VB from centralvalvebodies include a NEW Ford EPC valve and the updated solenoid bracket?

This is my plan:

- rebuilt VB (mainly for convenience and lack of experience on my part)
- new EPC (if not included)
- new solenoid bracket (if not included)
- viton D-rings for reverse servo
- band adjustment
- full flush (following VB install/verification)

Anything else I should be considering while I'm in there?

BK

Long overdue, but this project is finally underway!

Removed the VB today. Messy, but uneventful and no real surprises. Lots of grey residue on the interior of the pan etc.

I haven't purchased anything yet, but I'm wondering if there is any benefit to having Central Valve Body rebuild my existing VB, as opposed to the usual core swap? Downtime is not really an issue. FWIW vehicle was one of the first '97s off the assembly line.

Any reason why I shouldn't adjust the bands while the valve body is out?

I think I'm going to pass on the Sonnax setscrew mod to keep the risk factor down to a minimum.

BK

 

[CDW6212R]

Always adjust the bands if possible. If you have some time to work on it, buy new band adjusting lock nuts.

 

[ChrisTM]

Well I replaced both gaskets and the EPC Solenoid. I torqued the three inner bolts to 70 lb inches and the outer bolts to 90 lb inches with the exception of the two bracket bolts and the three of the bolts around the shift solenoids and epc/torque solenoids which I put at 70 because thats what the tech manual said to do.

Back to square one. No pressure to move. I actually have less pressure than I had before lol. I couldn't even back up off the ramp. I am really torn between saying screw it and replace the entire valve body and all of the solenoids, or going in a tightening the outer bolts a good bit more.

And I am still questioning the tapered orifice that it has you put into the second band feed hole. Wouldn't that effectively block that band completely except for the small pin hole?

 

[BK_89iX]

Anyone have any input on this Sonnax "zip kit" ?

http://www.sonnax.com/product-lines/transmission/parts/3917

The instructions are dated 3/12, so maybe it's somewhat new??

BK

 

[CDW6212R]

That is interesting. It looks like a combination of parts which are brand new upgrades, and some others that have been available for a long time. I recognize about 1/3 of those parts, mainly the o-ring plugs.

I suggest trying to utilize as many of the Sonnax parts as possible. It looks like they keep developing new stuff, likely from newly discovered inherent internal leaks. The 4R44E/5R55E seem to have more than their share of pressure loss issues.

Bolting on the valve body may be the most critical part of any work done to these models.

 

[CDW6212R]

Well I replaced both gaskets and the EPC Solenoid. I torqued the three inner bolts to 70 lb inches and the outer bolts to 90 lb inches with the exception of the two bracket bolts and the three of the bolts around the shift solenoids and epc/torque solenoids which I put at 70 because thats what the tech manual said to do.

Back to square one. No pressure to move. I actually have less pressure than I had before lol. I couldn't even back up off the ramp. I am really torn between saying screw it and replace the entire valve body and all of the solenoids, or going in a tightening the outer bolts a good bit more.

And I am still questioning the tapered orifice that it has you put into the second band feed hole. Wouldn't that effectively block that band completely except for the small pin hole?

I suggest contacting Sonnax and asking them what they may know to help. They will answer the phone, and given their expertise at finding issues and improving components, they may be able to provide guidance to help you.

It may be something simple like the VB bolts, or maybe it's an item like they just made parts for, the trick is finding the problem. Take your time, think through the possibilities, check for cleanliness etc.

 

[rob47v]

well maybe someone can shine some light on this weird issue . Before rebuilt no 4th nore 5th gear. rebuilt trans, now all fwd gears are great. Very annoying delayed reverse, performed the superior kit upgrade, improved the delay fwd gears still great. when truck is first started go to engage reverse, and no reverse. go to drive then back to reverse, and the gear is available. If I disconnect the harness reverse is there fast and every single time. I know this isnt the wright place but I'm desperate for help.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Replace the low/reverse servo O rings with the TransTec D ring kit. Check the torque of the valve body bolts.

 

[rob47v]

I have it has improved but still late .Also it dosent explaine why its there when the harness is disconnected.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Check the reverse hydraulic pressure, and EPC solenoid pressure with & without the harness connected.

 

[rob47v]

ok I'm listening replaced epc what should I look for?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Check to see if the pressure is lower than it should be. You might have a blown out valve body gasket or loose valve body bolts. The reverse modulation spool valve might be sticky if the pressure is within spec.

 

[rob47v]

I just read my post and there kind of non understandable sorry its late. Anyway the trans has been rebuilt new bands, clutches, bushings, reverse servo, epc, and VB gaskets ofcorse. Even performed the superior kit up grade. the delay did get a bit better but. I just don't understand how the original issue of no 4th or 5th got fixed, but a delay and sometimes no reverse issue can occur. But if I disconnect the harness from the trans it works everytime, without a glitch. After it warms up she takes reverse fine but still a bit delay. I'M lost!!!!!!!!

 

[asavage]

Better minds than I could give better advice, but . . . if you disconnect the harness, doesn't the transmission go into a limp-home mode that has higher than normal line pressure? If so, whatever is causing your no/delayed reverse engagement might be overcome by the higher pressure available.

Which is why BrooklynBay advised to get a pressure gauge on there and measure what's happening.

 

[rob47v]

I understand, but if so press is reg by the ecm, so that would mean that its an electronic issue. Even tho the EPC was replaced. Press is being limited. But fwd gears are no problem that's confusing.

 

[asavage]

. . . press is reg by the ecm, so that would mean that its an electronic issue.

If some hydraulic portion of your transmission will not operate at normal pressure, and the pressure regulation goes high in limp-home mode and now you get better operation, that does not imply that the problem is in the electronic regulation.

Until you put a pressure gauge on the relevant circuits, all you can do is guess. Or strip it all apart and look for something with your eyes and calipers.

 

[drdoom]

I am by no means an authority, but I do know the 5R55E is very prone to internal leakage. So you have overhauled all of the seals i.e. piston seals, shaft seals, etc. Perhaps you need a wet air test done on your valve body. Or possibly you could benefit from the many excellent offerings by SONNAX, particularly the o-ringed end plugs, etc. As BrooklynBay has pointed out, check the reverse modulation spool. As pointed out by asavage & BrooklynBay, you need to get a gauge on there.