My S/C install...Finally! | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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My S/C install...Finally!

Hit one of those snags. Cross-threaded two bolts on the drivers side header. Need to pull it off and run a tap through the holes. Fun times. Engine should be back together tomorrow if I dont get sidelined by all the college football games. Get my buddy over to help wire up some gauges and hopefully fire it up. More pics to follow....
 



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update? Hows the A/F ratio?

I have heard that with your style of S/C the boost comes on a bit later in the rpm band. Im curious.

Looks great! I would also be worried about A/F ratio when you start to build boost.
Im always impressed at anyone that actually takes the plunge and tries something like this.
 






Im sorry was that sarcasm??is this one of those threads that you try and brag about what you have and we congratulate you and cheer you on for doing things wrong?if so, i see why so few has posted.good luck on your project.:rolleyes::notworthy

I'm gonna hope that he wasn't being sarcastic and he was actually glad you brought up some good points. ;) If it was sarcasm don't tell us.
 






I'm gonna hope that he wasn't being sarcastic and he was actually glad you brought up some good points. ;) If it was sarcasm don't tell us.

Yea i wasn't trying to be an ass.its just that if you are going to do something like a sc,you really need to do it right.just throwing a sc that should produce 8lbs on a stock motor is not safe at all.may not blow right off the bat but damage will be done.being that i just finished a sc install i have alot of fresh knowledge that would gladly share;)
 






Yea i wasn't trying to be an ass.its just that if you are going to do something like a sc,you really need to do it right.just throwing a sc that should produce 8lbs on a stock motor is not safe at all.may not blow right off the bat but damage will be done.being that i just finished a sc install i have alot of fresh knowledge that would gladly share;)

Oh trust me I know that you're very qualified to give advice, lol, just it seemed to me like you were sorta bein' an ass, so I was just checkin!
And darn, no sc on a stock pure motor??? I really wanted to just bolt on this bad boy to my stock OHV. http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/product.php?p=182 lmao I wanna go vroom vroom vroom :burnout:
 












And 83% efficiency! Haha JD I vote for you to try that charger first
 






The least you'd be able to use the sc on your next project JD. Wow that thong carries a hefty price tag. Anyway, we're all not so patiently waiting to see how you make out zachow! You have our attention.

Worst case.....new bottom end (and stuff). It's not so bad, I keep telling myself its cheaper than a monthly payment on buying something newer and not nearly as fun.
 












The centri's do tend to build boost slower then a roots style s/c. My setup is good for up to 6 psi but many things factor in to how much it will actually make. How well the motor breathes plays a big part. How efficiently it can scavange the exhuast gases, the tune, etc.
Progress slowed do to my helper having personal matters to attend to. I did finish the engine bay wiring and header gaskets(I hope these dont leak. I dont wnat to rdo those anytime soon). Ive waited 4 yrs to do this so another week wont kill me.
If the motor lets go its on my dime. You gotta pay to play.:D
 






Save a couple bucks and get you by a lil safer, find a mark viii yank the injectors, 24 lbers
 






Yes, be safe. Problem with going 24 lbr's is that you will be really rich when your not under boost. Back to needing a tune to make it all work.

You will have the A/F meter installed already. Get yourself an SCT3 and make a cable to plug the A/F sensor in to your SCT3. Then you can remote tune by sending datalogs. Its less expensive than time on the dyno, but the trade off is that it takes longer.

I really think your better off going with the 24 pounders and a tune at the minimum. You might find you need even bigger injectors, I have no idea. Consult an experienced tuner to be sure, an email would be all it takes.

At 6lbs boost you will be pushing lots of air.
JD gave you a list of things to do that would give you lots more power also by reducing restriction. You might get addicted and want to do those things also. Power is fun!
 






Yes, be safe. Problem with going 24 lbr's is that you will be really rich when your not under boost. Back to needing a tune to make it all work.

You will have the A/F meter installed already. Get yourself an SCT3 and make a cable to plug the A/F sensor in to your SCT3. Then you can remote tune by sending datalogs. Its less expensive than time on the dyno, but the trade off is that it takes longer.

I really think your better off going with the 24 pounders and a tune at the minimum. You might find you need even bigger injectors, I have no idea. Consult an experienced tuner to be sure, an email would be all it takes.

At 6lbs boost you will be pushing lots of air.
JD gave you a list of things to do that would give you lots more power also by reducing restriction. You might get addicted and want to do those things also. Power is fun!

I have to agree on bigger injectors. 24lb minimum. Actually looking at 30's. Not going to install my 42's at this point.
Saw these...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/30LB-FUEL-I...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item27cb90a7f6.

I want to stick with the EV1's. For certain things Im not a big fan of the junk yards. Rather get a known good set of injectors and pay more. If someone has a better idea I am all ears.

Also I have an SCT Livewire. Similiar to the SCT 3, that I have my tunes loaded on. Also have a cat 5 cable made up to read a/f ratios and can datalog onto my laptop.

Been in contact with a local certified SCT tuner. Ideally I need a 4 wheel drive dyno which they dont have but they can street tune it and the price isnt to bad. As much as I would have liked James (Henson) to tune it, he wanted to be on site. That would be a couple days out of his schedule and transportation and lodging on my part. That just is not in my budget.

Please keep the input coming. This is coming together but the rainy season is not far off and Im working under a canopy.:(
 






Sounds like you have done your research, and are ready.

As far as the dyno goes, you could do the brown wire mod, or pull your front drive shaft if you wished.

On my truck, I have 36lb injectors. I think that that means looking at what you are doing, and having 2 more cylinders than me 30's should be fine. I have no idea what the current duty cycle of my 36lb injectors are at wot, but Im sure there is still more room left in them.
 






Sounds like you have done your research, and are ready.

As far as the dyno goes, you could do the brown wire mod, or pull your front drive shaft if you wished.

On my truck, I have 36lb injectors. I think that that means looking at what you are doing, and having 2 more cylinders than me 30's should be fine. I have no idea what the current duty cycle of my 36lb injectors are at wot, but Im sure there is still more room left in them.

I love my AWD.It takes care of me in any weather, so the brown wire mod is really not an option personally. Pulling the front diveshaft is and if they can tune it on the street..great! If not I will pull it.

I havent upgraded my fuel system yet to run large injectors. I may not if Im happy with the results. 24 pounders I think would be pushing their limit with the V8 so my thinking was 30's would give me room to work with.
Found a set of remans on ebay for 135.00. Going with those. Only thing is this puts me a little farther behind schedule.
For your engine application I would think your 36's would give you plenty of buffer.
 






What I meant by doing the. Town wire mod was adding a switch so that if you could switch between awd or 2wd.

Whatever works best for you.
 






What I meant by doing the. Town wire mod was adding a switch so that if you could switch between awd or 2wd.

Whatever works best for you.
I thought the brown wire mod only worked on 4wd and not on the AWD.
 






What I meant by doing the. Town wire mod was adding a switch so that if you could switch between awd or 2wd.

Whatever works best for you.

Got this off the forum...
Third, let me make this perfectly clear: If you have a second-generation V-8 with All Wheel Drive, this mod does not work for you.

So that is not an option.
On the up side I found a set of 30lb remanufactured injectors for a good price so waiting on those. Need to get ahold of the tuner. They e-mail me a form that I fill out with any alterations and write a tune that I can load to get the truck down to the shop. They credit the cost of that tune when they do the final tuning which is nice.
Not to much else I can do at the moment. Maybe some engine bay cleaning and cable management.
 






Oops, sorry about the bad info on the brown wire mod. Bad assumption on my computer part.
 



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Sounds like everyones input is paying off.

Talked with my tuner again today. He pretty much gave me the same advice that everone who contibuted gave me.

So what I have done so far....

Supercharger is installed. Had to modify a couple wiring harnesses but that is done. Need to install bigger injectors and fuel pump. Those should arrive around the 12th. Been working on getting all my gauges wired. This is where I am lacking. My expert friend is sick so I am doing what I can by myself. Just takes me alot longer. Also I had a heck of a time but resealed my leaky TMH's. Wont know for sure untill I run it.

What I still need to do.....


Installing 30lb injectors along with a Walbro GSL 392 inline pump. Need to go with my 90mm MAF so need to finish the intake mockup. My tuner suggested I run a bypass valve even at just 6lb's of boost. I have one. He suggested I could run it as a blow off valve but that is most beneficial when running an intercooler. I dont plan to run one so a bypass system is recommended. The plumbing for that will be a challenge. I will see how it goes. Also running the one step cooler Autolite copper plugs gapped to .035. Also running a 180 deg thermostat vs the 195.

If anyone has more suggestions, let me know.

The final tuning will be done at thier shop on the dyno. I just need to send in my form so I can get a tune that will make the truck driveable for the trip down there.

I will upate pics as I progress.
Thanks to all who offered advice.:thumbsup:
 






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