Need help to install door lock actuator 99 Eddie Bauer

[RTF_EXPLORER]

My driver door supposedly has a bad door lock actuator but the stealership wants $340 to fix. I tried looking up for a previous write up does anyone have any photos or directions on how to do this? Is it a complex task? I am pretty mechanically inclined just never monkeyed with door & motors and such

 

[Jason c]

I used this when I did mine recently: http://s599.photobucket.com/albums/...view&current=SXNusenfileGN0441A_gifgenref.gif I bought a new one off Rockauto. I didn't drill out the factory rivet holding the stock one in. Instead, I seperated the bracket from the acuator itself, and then just replaced the acuator into the old bracket. Removing the lower bolt on the widow channel was a big help too.

 

[shadowless127]

I used this when I did mine recently: http://s599.photobucket.com/albums/...view&current=SXNusenfileGN0441A_gifgenref.gif I bought a new one off Rockauto. I didn't drill out the factory rivet holding the stock one in. Instead, I seperated the bracket from the acuator itself, and then just replaced the acuator into the old bracket. Removing the lower bolt on the widow channel was a big help too.

how long did it take you?

 

[Jason c]

Maybe 45 min, because I couldnt figure out what was holding the bracket to the door and had to go online. Other then getting the bracket off, it's not that difficult.

 

[RTF_EXPLORER]

I used this when I did mine recently: http://s599.photobucket.com/albums/...view&current=SXNusenfileGN0441A_gifgenref.gif I bought a new one off Rockauto. I didn't drill out the factory rivet holding the stock one in. Instead, I seperated the bracket from the acuator itself, and then just replaced the acuator into the old bracket. Removing the lower bolt on the widow channel was a big help too.

How did you re-attach it? Bolt, Bolts, or another rivet? Thanks for the info

 

[Jason c]

I just spread the bracket apart just enough to slide one of the pins from the actuator out. If you have one there in front of you, it will be obvious. The old bracket never left the door and is still held in there from the factory rivet.

 

[toypaseo]

If you do it like Jason C did, be careful to not rip the rubber boot covering the actuator.

I was going to replace my passenger rear, but I had my ex-Ford mechanic neighbor do it. The hardest part is pry getting the actuator rods unhooked from the failing unit, and then hooking them back up to the new unit.

My neighbor had a punch he specifically ground down to push out the rivet pin since he replaced numerous Ford actuator over the years. My neighbor just replaced the whole deal so he would not risk tearing the rubber jacket over the actuator.

He made it look so easy. It pry took me longer to remove them from the junkyard.

I can't remember why he recommended against using a nut and bolt. I just bought a heavy duty rivet gun from Harbor Freight, although I can't remember if he used a rivet he had, or if it is one of them that came with it. Here is the rivet gun...

http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-...and-riveter-with-collection-bottle-66422.html

 

[koda2000]

i always replace the rivets with a small grade 8 bolt and a nylock nut. i've never had a bolt break or come lose like the rivets can.

 

[1996BLKBauer]

I have a faulty door lock actuator on my drivers door, I need to replace it, I am still sort of confused on how all this works to remove it. Sorry to hijack the thread, but I see no point in making anew one on the same subject.

 

[obie]

If you check out 1A Auto they have a revised door lock actuator for sale. It's temporarily out of stock, but if you contact EF member 1A Tony he may be able to help you more. These guys have good parts and they're EF vendors, so we get better pricing.

 

[1996BLKBauer]

If you check out 1A Auto they have a revised door lock actuator for sale. It's temporarily out of stock, but if you contact EF member 1A Tony he may be able to help you more. These guys have good parts and they're EF vendors, so we get better pricing.

Thank you, I looked them up on Advanced Auto, and Autozone, and they are almost $70... but since I can no longer lock my drivers door, It is worth it, plus I won't have hit the darn lock to actually lock my door anymore.

 

[gdkenoyer]

I was a bit surprised (foolishly) to find a replacement part on Amazon.

They have a couple brands of aftermarket parts for this, but the one I've found elsewhere is the Dorman 746-145 universal.

It was $37 at the time of this post, with free shipping.

And while I'm here, another post on this issue mentioned not drilling out the rivet. The suggestion was to pop the solenoid off the bracket, leaving the bracket in place.

There is a nice video on the 1Aauto site about this replacement. It's also the ad for their replacement part (in case the mods are concerned...)