Y-pipe in the way | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Y-pipe in the way

wall-i

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October 17, 2012
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Year, Model & Trim Level
94 Ranger
Removing standard transmission from 94 Ranger. Can't seem to wiggle it back over the Y-pipe. Does this really need to come out first?
 



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I just removed the trans from my explorer. I've been told both ways but I can't imagine getting it out with the y-pipe in place. I ended up removing mine.
 






The y-pipe had to come out on our '92 explorer to pull the a4ld trans. I have pulled it 3 times over the years.. I don't see the ranger being much different in this respect.

On a friends truck we just cut the cross over pipe and used those fancy band style clamps to seal it back up (they are 5" or so long). Now when we pull his transmission we just pull the band clamps, loosen the pipes at the manifold and push them outward to make room.

~Mark
 






Yes. Or disconnect the radius arm cross member. Next time I have to pop mine out I'm going to try the cross member route.
 






Thanks for the help guys. Not really what I wanted to hear, but now I know for sure. Thanks again!!
 






Just don't cut the Y pipe at the engine ends. SOB owner before me did that & I was wondering why my truck sounded so bad. Discovered shortly after I bought it they were cut & clamped back together. Welded them back.
 






No, it doesn't have to come out. At least not a second gen explorer.

I'd imagine its much easier if you do take it off though.
 






No, it doesn't have to come out. At least not a second gen explorer.

I'd imagine its much easier if you do take it off though.

We're not dealing with a second gen. The suspens is much different with the TTB. There is a crossmember directly below the y pipe. As the trans pivots down the y pipe contacts this crossmember and stops it. It does not provide enough clearance to get to the top 2 bolts.

As the previous hack jobs did with mine they cut a hole in the floor to get to those. I chose the less barbaric method when reinstalling the trans after patching the hole.
 






We're not dealing with a second gen. The suspens is much different with the TTB. There is a crossmember directly below the y pipe. As the trans pivots down the y pipe contacts this crossmember and stops it. It does not provide enough clearance to get to the top 2 bolts.

The top two transmission bolts? I just use a couple long extensions and get them from around the back of the transmission.
 






I've heard stories of people removing the trans with the Y-pipe in, but I think their memory is bad.

It's a million times easier to just remove the Y-pipe. It can be a bear to break the manifold to Y-pipe bolts loose for the first time, but use a wire brush to clean up the threads that are sticking out before they go through the manifold threads when backing out, and it's a lot easier. I'd also suggest just buying 4 new bolts from Ford to replace them, it's a lot easier and the Y-pipe will seal a lot better, most of the time the threads that were in the manifold are rusted bad.

You can pull the Y-pipe together with the catalytic converters, just disconnect the cat/muffler spring bolts and drop the Y-pipe together with the converters to make it easier.
 






The top two transmission bolts? I just use a couple long extensions and get them from around the back of the transmission.

And you did not read my post. The trans won't pivot enough to give clearance to allow for extensions to pass up to the two upper bolts with the transmission in and the radius arm cross member in place.

Remove the Y pipe and the trans will pivot down until the engine hits the firewall. You'll be able to put 36" or so of extensions in and ratchet the bolts off from around the output flange area.

The second gens do not have this crossmember and therefore don't have the issue. Please note which generation of vehicle to which we are speaking of in this thread.
 






And you did not read my post. The trans won't pivot enough to give clearance to allow for extensions to pass up to the two upper bolts with the transmission in and the radius arm cross member in place.

I read your post perfectly. I'm just trying to figure out what is different between first and second gen.

On a second gen you don't have to pivot the engine at all to reach the top bolts with an extension. Maybe the firewalls are different between bodies.

Please note which generation of vehicle to which we are speaking of in this thread.

I did. In my first post.
 






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