A way to install a HU without running speaker wires?

[Anime]

You can tell which JBL system you have by the color of the audio connector. The grey connector in each photo is the standard FORD connector for power, ignition, illumination, ground, antenna, amp turn-on, etc.



The square black connector is the 91-94 JBL system:

the green connector is the 95-97 JBL/Mach system.

If you have the black connector, just tell Crutchfield your ride is a 94 or something.

If you have the system with the green connector and the rear tuner, you'll have to decide what route you want to go.


I wouldn't disagree on getting a new receiver, that VR3 unit is junk. You're lucky if you've managed to get one that lasts, if you read the reviews they seem to stop working after just a few months, and subsequent replacements are no better. Luckily, there are now lots of high quality name brand receivers with USB and SD card inputs.

You will also save a bundle if you go with Crutchfield, considering the cost of the amp integration harness and the tuner bypass harness is at or nearly $50. There are also constant Crutchfield internet coupons for $20 off $100, so you can get a nice $140-160 receiver at an even better price (including ones that are on sale), free shipping, and get the extras free, making it like saving ~$70 or more.

 

[Quxote]

So the connector at the radio will tell me what system I have..I am looking for black or green. I also figured that if the antenna connection is at the back or the radio then I dont have the rear tuner correct?

According to Crutchfield there is no (or at least they dont offer it) amp integration harness and i must bypass the amp and run the wires.

This is the log from Crutchfield.
11/15/2009 03:06:29PM John: "I am looking for a wiring harness for my 1995 For Explorer 4 door with JBL audio. I would like something that I do not need to run speaker wires and i heard there is a harness that will integrate teh factory amp"
11/15/2009 03:07:02PM Agent (Jeremy.): "I will check, but the only option may be bypass."
11/15/2009 03:08:27PM Agent (Jeremy.): "We only list the by-pass harness for your application. I wish I had better news there."
11/15/2009 03:08:31PM Agent (Jeremy.) sends page: "http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120705008/Ford-Mazda-Receiver-Wire-Harness.html?search=120705008&ssi=0&tp=2977"

The VR3 unit served me well for 2 years with no problems, except for the FM tuner problem which i thought was a car issue not a radio issue (If I shook the wires at the power antenna the FM would come on for a second.) But maybe it was a problem with the HU itself, who knows lol.

Once I have a second to remove the radio from the truck I will be able to tell by the connectors which system I have i guess.

Green = rear tuner
Black = Older JBL without rear tuner

Right?


Thanks everyone for your great help.

 

[rgalka]

Hey Quxote... yea if you have the tuner in the back then everything I told is probably useless... sorry man

Except for the part on removing the quarter panel...

bob

 

[Quxote]

LOL...thanks for the help though Bob

 

[Anime]

The color of the connectors is the easiest way to tell for sure, but you can possibly shine a flashlight in the hole where the rear passenger side seat belt goes into the panel and see if you spot the tuner module with the thick black antenna wire plugged into it.

If crutchfield only offers the tuner bypass, that might mean that bypassing the tuner also bypasses the amp, and so the harness has the long wires since the only option is to use the amp from the aftermarket receiver to power the speakers.

If this is the case, then the sub amp might be affected as well. In that case you'd be stuck having to get an aftermarket amp and sub, (though you can stick an aftermarket 8" in the stock enclosure as an alternative route to buying a whole amp/sub/enclosure deal)

 

[Quxote]

Crutchfield said that the harness will have about 18ft of wires to run tot he front.

But if I have to bypass the amp couldn't I hook the sub up to the aftermarket HU without an amp?

 

[Anime]

No, you can't (or rather, you technically can, but shouldn't) hook up the sub directly to the head unit.

Receivers have wimpy amps as it is, they aren't heavy duty enough (or even high enough wattage) to push something like a subwoofer. Only the high end receivers have crossovers in them, which you'd also need to make the sub only put out the low frequences it's made for, rather than the full range it would get being wired up as a speaker.

Sure, in a ghetto setup, you can wire a sub to the head unit, especially dual voice coil subs. Usually it eventually blows the sub from being underpowered through.


What you CAN do is get an aftermarket amp to power the sub. Get a ~75W RMS amp, mount it in the factory location, and you can even use the factory power/ignition wires, and just use a set of RCA's from the HU to the amp for a signal. Wire the sub wires to the amp and you're done. Of course, it will eventually blow the sub (even the factory amp eventually does), and you'll have to pop in an aftermarket 8" replacement.

 

[Quxote]

I am thinking crutchfield is gonna send the Metra - 70-5601 harness.....does anyone know if this harness bypasses the amp and the tuner or just the tuner.

It's really not in my budget to get a new amp to push the sub at this time. Definately I'd like to down the line but can't swing it right now.

I emailed crutchfield to ask what harness will come with my new unit to confirm....
I am hoping they offer the Metra - 70-5603 which appears to be a factory amp integration harness.

 

[Quxote]

I just spoke with crutchfield, here is the log from the chat, according to them you can not integrate the factory sub and amp. Searching Metra's website (and previously posted by another member) I found the 70-5603, which you can use the factory sub and amp.

Based on this conversation I question purchasing from crutchfield because they either don't know about the integration harness, or just dont want to offer it (forcing you to buy an aftermarket sub and amp.

I also looked up the Model number of the harness that "Jodi" mentioned and could not find it anywhere.

John: "I read this when selecting a head unit.... Your vehicle is factory-equipped with a special sound system, and Crutchfield supplies a harness which bypasses your factory amplifier. You'll need to run the included wires from new receiver to the location of y"
our factory amplifier.
11/19/2009 08:38:26PM John: "my question is this.....If I am bypassing the factory amp....what will power the factory sub woofer"
Agent (Jodi.): "If you install a new radio you will lose the factory sub and amp."
Agent (Jodi.): "There is no way to integrate it into the new radio."
John: "can I ask...what is the harness that crutchfield supplies?"
Agent (Jodi.): "Here is a link to the harness you will get."
Agent (Jodi.) sends page: "http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120705008/Ford-Mazda-Receiver-Wire-Harness.html?search=120705008&ssi=0&tp=2977"
John: "I meant what brand and model is the harness?"
Agent (Jodi.): "This is a Metra harness."
John: "the Metra Electronics 70-5601"
John: "?"
Agent (Jodi.): "No, it's the 705008."

 

[Anime]

Crutchfield isn't "wrong", since they base the wiring kits, harnesses, install kits, (and everything else they send out when you buy something) on the standard industry data, rather than actual experiences of what vehicles can use what.

Hence, Crutchfield doesn't even "know" that 1995 model Explorers that were produced in late '94 (and even some early '95's) still had the same audio system as the 1994 models.

Stuff like this is common in the high production automotive industry, but it's also enough of an exception not to hassle with putting it with the standard information since it's more likely to confuse the people who don't need it, which would be the majority of the people who will be buying the product.


I have't had any trouble with Crutchfield being unwilling to send out a part. They try to cut costs by only offering one install harness option with a purchase, and at checkout when you go online, but the advisors will usually be more than happy to send you out the other harness at no charge if you change your mind or the one you picked didn't work out. I would think they would also send you out an amp integration harness if you requested it, assuming they stock it and the part number corresponds with theirs.

The advisors get a commission on the gear you buy, but they don't lose anything by sending out additional install gear. If you're super nice and especally if you stick with the same advisor, they'll usually do whatever you want in hopes you will call them again the next time you plan to purchase audio equipment.

Of course, you can always buy the harnesses yourself online, the amp integration harness is a lot less than the tuner bypass harness.

You might need both of them to make it work, the bypass harness to get around the tuner, and the integration harness to use the factory wiring to the amp.

 

[Quxote]

Thanks for the tips Anime, I will definitely try to "smooze" some to get the other harness.

I just checked the production date of my 95 and see that is was produced 1/95..making one of those candidates of the 94 audio system. My project tomorrow is to pull out the factory radio, to be sure what harness I need.

 

[Gabe96Explorer]

I am ready to RAGE - 96 XLT w/ JBL

Starting my own thread.

 

[someitalian30]

I'm not sure if anyone else would be interested, but i have a 97 Eddie Bauer Explorer..JBL system with sub in the back, I located the speaker wires behind the passenger side front kick plate at the bottom of the dash (for speakers to headunit) and used the wires closest to the door then ran a single line from my aftermarket headunit to my factory amp (radio was labeled woofer power..its an off brand system from china with gps and dvd) then used an rca cable with traditional speaker wire to the red and black on my factory amp/ sub set up...no popping when it turns on and works amazing!!
I wasnt very happy ford put in such a complex (and stupid) set up in these trucks but I really do love my all wheel drive V8 explorer!
---
Sub/ Amp

Red and black - from your rca cable on your aftermarket headunit
the 3rd wire on the amp is the power that feeds from your stereo..
I tucked my wires under the door trims on the passenger side and
ran upto my head unit behind the glove box...
I figured noting the fact that i only had 3 wires on my factory amp/ sub set up
would help others because i keep seeing all these posts with people trying wiring
kits and mentioning all these wires..
alittle work, for nice rewards