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Did you do your roof at all?

Curious also because it seems as if my last stereo seperated some braces and now my roof rattles like crazy, like to tack weld and deaden
 






I havnt done the roof. I dont really know how much of a difference it would make. I wouldnt think there is a lot of noise coming from above.
I did all the doors and the floor and up the back wall behind the rear seats and its amazing. The only noise I hear now is wind through the windows.
 






I did, but I've got a sunroof so it's mostly in the back.

Well, that should take care of the parts of the roof that are likely to vibrate or set up a resonance anyway.
 






I havnt done the roof. I dont really know how much of a difference it would make. I wouldnt think there is a lot of noise coming from above.
I did all the doors and the floor and up the back wall behind the rear seats and its amazing. The only noise I hear now is wind through the windows.

The point of adding this stuff isn't really to keep sound out, it is to add mass to panels to absorb vibration and prevent them from resonating with other sounds or vibrations.
 






Like the rest of my truck I also sprayed it with the rubber undercoating. I've considered filling the cavities with foam but Idk if it'd be worth the time or money.
 






Like the rest of my truck I also sprayed it with the rubber undercoating. I've considered filling the cavities with foam but Idk if it'd be worth the time or money.

Filling the wrong cavities with foam can increase NVH.
 


















Ive been watching all kinds of youtube videos of this stuff....... im sold! Also apparently if you go to a roofing supplier itd be more of a nameless material, something like waterproofing aluminum wrap, the advantage to that (basically same as seal and peal) is you can get it 3' wide vs 6" wide. A guy was saying he picked up a 3'x30' roll for around $50
 












I was out in the garage looking for something, and I found a big roll of the silver film backed foil underlayment I used for cushion/sound deadener/vapor barrier underneath the floating floor I installed in our home this summer.
If I remember its 3mm EVA foam with a polyethylene foil backing. It was either 150 or 200 sq ft roll, and there is most of a roll there.
I'm thinking since I already have it, I may try and use it on my interior trim panels to control panel rattle, and throw a layer or two under my carpet.
Its free at this point, but I think I only payed like $16 a roll for it anyhow.
Ill do CLD on all the large sheet metal, and throw this stuff on the back of my interior panels.
I don't want Mercedes quiet, I just want to cut down on the rattling that is sure to ensue once my audio build in done.
 






Update on how the insulation is holding up and a note.

First the insulation has been holding up great and it will not come off easily so make sure you won't need to remove it.
D2EDD859-CEDC-40BD-887D-5893570F24A8.jpg

9B6FB472-60CD-4FCB-AFF6-44EE7C960129.jpg


And here's the note. Make sure you drill the hole for the window motor removal so you won't have a PITA time later when the bushings in the motor decide to go.
There's a thread on where and how to locate the spot with the bolt under it so I'm not going to post that info.

Here's a pic of what I had to remove to get to the spot though.
A56ABC18-1834-4498-89BE-B147ABF75074.jpg


It took a good 30-45min of scraping and pulling with pliers to locate the spot to drill. So I think it's safe to say that with proper installation this stuff isn't going anywhere.

I still haven't finished up my car but it's toward the top of the ever growing list.
 






I found a 6 inch wide butyl rubber foil backed window wrap for $20 for a 200 ft roll. Its about as thick as the original Dynamat. Its stayed on my ranger without a single piece coming loose after 3 years if hot Louisiana summers. I put 2 layers on whole interior & inside the doors also. It made a huge difference in the sound & the quietness of the truck. It cut almost all of the road noise.
 






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