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2004 4.0 Engine swap

It appears the plenum hooks into the heads that have the intake ports built into it. I don't see a typical intake bolting into it. The mustang will have the same I'm guessing with fuel rail and injectors to be swapped out?
 



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strip it down to the block, you can keep the harmonice ballancer and the crank sensor, they probally will be the same, buy the set of intake gasket set with new orings and bushings for the injectors, i also would swap engine mounts and exhaust manifolds.
 






strip it down to the block, you can keep the harmonice ballancer and the crank sensor, they probally will be the same, buy the set of intake gasket set with new orings and bushings for the injectors, i also would swap engine mounts and exhaust manifolds.

I have it out and the new engine arrives tomorrow . I will be putting the exhaust manifolds on the the mustang block from the explorer along with the injectors and rail. What about the flywheel will the Mustang flywheel match up on the Explorer?
The starter and lower transmission along with parts of the block are full of moisture like corrosion from sitting in the snow bank up north by Duluth, MN. The rubber flaps around the the upper control arm are missing as well my question is where does a guy get the replacements for it along with the front fender inner wheel well that blocks out the front bumper from road spray?
 






yes i would swap flywheel i think there is 6 or 8 star bolts holding the flywheel on
 






yes i would swap flywheel i think there is 6 or 8 star bolts holding the flywheel on

I tried impacting the star bolts on the flywheel but they don't budge a bit. I figure that the crank bolt will loosen as we try backing them off. Any suggestions on getting them off?
 






if i remember, I threaded a long bolt into one of the bell housing bolts holes and wedge a wrench between and a flat spot on the flywheel and locked it in place on that bolt so the engine could not spin, make sure you get the right socket for those bolts you dont want to strip them thats a whole other nightmare.
 






if i remember, I threaded a long bolt into one of the bell housing bolts holes and wedge a wrench between and a flat spot on the flywheel and locked it in place on that bolt so the engine could not spin, make sure you get the right socket for those bolts you dont want to strip them thats a whole other nightmare.

I used my air impact today instead of the heavy duty chordless and got it done. We have the transformation of the Mustang block done and it is in hooked to the tranny all bellhousing bolts tightened and the motor mounts fastened too. I'm thinking we will have it running by tomorrow night or Friday night at the latest. It has been real easy transferring the components to the mustang engine I can't believe more people aren't doing it?
We found with the old motor that there are 2 valves on the drivers side that are loose the rest appear tight I'm wondering if the timing chain slacked and caused the engine to go dead? I'm not up on this motor for what goes wrong and what ends up being salvageable if any is? I might try and fix it and look to sell it!
 






Thanks for the updates, this will help out a few people I'm sure!
 






strip aluminum, and use block as a boat anchor! remember if you change spark plugs get the plug or see if the part number is different for your truck compared to the mustang, get the mustang plugs if different
 






strip aluminum, and use block as a boat anchor! remember if you change spark plugs get the plug or see if the part number is different for your truck compared to the mustang, get the mustang plugs if different

Mustang spark UBS are being used. Almost made it to firing up but ran out of time. I have to work at 6 am time for a quick update and off to bed we will finish it tomorrow and gradually get it back on the road next week. I'm not sure if I will keep it or sell it yet it sure is growing on me.
 






Mustang spark UBS are being used. Almost made it to firing up but ran out of time. I have to work at 6 am time for a quick update and off to bed we will finish it tomorrow and gradually get it back on the road next week. I'm not sure if I will keep it or sell it yet it sure is growing on me.

Spark plugs darn auto correct!
 






It's running! Running like a champ! No leaks or drips or misses. It didn't even flash the check engine light. I just need to get the air out of the power steering and we are golden! It runs really well I am extremely pleased at how it runs and rides. Should be a good runner for such little money involved. I paid $1600 for the rig and $900 for the engine and $175 in parts and fluids. It books for $5500 should bring that easily.
 






The old engine is sitting on the engine stand. I haven't tore into it yet to see to what's wrong other than a few loose valve pieces under the valve cover. Would that indicate bent valves or more? I'm curious if there is a fix to this if the lower end is still good and fix the heads and timing chain to use in another vehicle? The boat anchor comment earlier is funny but truth in the matter is I'm looking at another with a bad engine to drop it into if it is fixable or buying another motor if its not.
 






These engine are complicated and expensive to work on, hensce the over head cam, It is not work putting cash into something with a bunch of miles on to find out it is a junk motor by design, especially when you can get a deal on used one engines
 






These engine are complicated and expensive to work on, hensce the over head cam, It is not work putting cash into something with a bunch of miles on to find out it is a junk motor by design, especially when you can get a deal on used one engines

Based on my description of the valve train being loose on 3 of them does that mean bent valves? I can sell the Mustang valve covers, fuel rail, and injectors and the block as a core if I find another Explorer. I also have a perfect wiring harness for the Mustang and a flywheel.
 






I tried impacting the star bolts on the flywheel but they don't budge a bit. I figure that the crank bolt will loosen as we try backing them off. Any suggestions on getting them off?
Use a propane torch and heat the heads of the bolts a little. The lock tight is hard to break loose without some heat. Then use your impact on them
 






Use a propane torch and heat the heads of the bolts a little. The lock tight is hard to break loose without some heat. Then use your impact on them
@jeff womack
Thank you 3 years and 7 months later!
 












If you change over your fuel rails and injectors you should be fine with the E engine.
If you have a 4×4 you should get the eighth vin digit K. It has the balance shaft. The vin eighth digit E does not. That is the only difference.
 



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